DaveK

Michigan. Just outside of Ann Arbor

I am looking for help for the pickup routing for a start. I need a single single humbucker configuration (humbucker in the bridge position). It's for a 62 strat with a pick guard .

I was interested in figuring out the best place to get a template or if anyone wants to provide this service and route the body for me, that would be of interest as well

Is this something you can provide? Thanks!

I've powdercoated a tele bridgeplate, string trees, control plate, and tuners....All white, it's definately doable, the cost might be the issue though.

I am the member that powdercoats hardware

I am still doing it, but I am backed up at the moment

If anyone is interested, please contact me

oh......and never paint! It will wear down quickly

PM Sent

Dave

Just what the title says, stock RG Pickups, body painted in a "hammered metal finish:

$75 plus shipping

lgm@lgmguitars.com

http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/for%20sale...TX/IMGP3479.JPG

http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/for%20sale...TX/IMGP3480.JPG

Stupid question of the day......I am painting a Iceman body with House of Kolor paint. Ebay is selling 4 ounce sizes. If I use a HVLP gun, do you think 4 ounces will be enough for one body?

Also, how many onces of clear would you suggest?

This my first stab at using an HVLP system, so any help is appreciated

Thanks

Dave

This may be a completely stupid question, but here it goes.

If you were to put a plastic pickup cover

over a sustainer, would it dramatically effect the sustainer quality?

I am trying to "hide" the sustainer look & my though is if a plastic cover doesn't affect a regular pickups functionality, it may not effect the sustainer either

Thoughts from the forum?

Jeremy, Jeremy, Jeremy.........

I think we are going to have to agree to disagree about Powdercoating lasting longer than chrome. I have seen many chrome parts pit, peel and flake. I have never personaly seen this happen with powdercoated parts.

That cool if you feel otherwise, different opinions are what make the world go around!

I guess I am more concerned about the statement you made regarding:

"most floyds won't fit back together properly after powder coating unless the powder coat layer is done very thin in which case it won't outlast a high quality epoxy paint"

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I think I am going to just have to buy a new digital camera & do a tutorial.

I did a blue Edge trem and a yellow Jackson trem with NO issues. you just have to know where to mask with Green tape (green polyester that has a 1.5 mil silicone adhesive. It withstands temperatures up to 400 degrees)

You also have to know where to use silicone caps & plugs to make sure the coating dosent get in here it should not.

I think I might have to do a "snow white" hardware transformation to show my claims to be true

Now I just have to make the time to do it!

LGM & Billet:

I respectfully disagree on your statements on Powdercoating.

If you simply buy a $100 powdercoat gun and try your hand, you will most likely run into the issues you both brought up.

There are methods to applying powdercoat that will work perfectly with a Floyd type trem.

I have done several and as long as the attention to detail is taken into account up front, there are NO issues at all.

I may be working on a Powdercoating tutorial in the future that will lay this out in detail. I just have a few projects that I want to finish up beforehand.

Dave

You guys told me exactly what I wanted and needed to know.  who knows what I would have done without this information.

thanks!

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Powdercoat it dude!

3 steps

Scuff

Clean

Powdercoat

If done right, it willl look amazing!

well I was talking to an older friend who knows all this stuff. and this is what I think Im going to do. mind you Im not a paint nor finish expert so its going to come out very blunt first we are gonna sandblast it to get all of the previous paint off. then we will prime it, paint it, then we will add a clear coat.

we are gonna add a clear coat so unstead of the paint wearing off the clear coat does. which makes it much easier for repainting and shyt.

again I forget what type of paint, prime and clear coat we will use, I really don't know to much about that stuff.  but as long as my friend knows what type of stuff we will need Im not worried.

If you guys think this isn't a good idea or anything feel free to give opinions and such.

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WOW....a year without a topic on Powdercoating and now 2 in a row from 2 different members!

Thanks for the referal Scott!

I can do it, but I am VERY backed up

P.M.me if you are interested

Define "expensive"

I can Powdercoat, but it will take some time, as I am WAY backlogged on other projects.

Powdercoating will outlast chrome when done correctly

Im thinking on painting a floyd rose, but Im a little worried on the effect. I have read this http://users.pandora.be/marnix.ghesquiere/ondex.html

But Powder coating is not only expensive but hard to find without having to send it to the UK. So this leaves me with one solution, I could prime it with epoxy primer, then paint it with some sort of  paint (forget what its called) that can take the abuse of you hand constantly touching it.

but what Im wondering do any of you think that epoxy primer would alter the sound at all? and/or is there another way I could paint a floyd rose without having to worry about the paint fading and peeling?

Thanks!

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You're better off leaving it as it is. I have yet to see a paint that will hold up to that kind of application.

Perhaps getting it chromed but they have a tendency to lose small parts in the vat.

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In my opinion, it is pretty rotten to use a public forum to try and solve this problem. It's none of my business, but it appears that there were steps being made to resolve the issue.

No reason to send the "don"t do business with this guy" message that a thread like this implies.

It's nice that you were satisfied with the resolution, but if I were Ronny I would be upset that you brought your story here for the group to see.

Bad press like this can KILL a business. I used to sell a HOW TO RELIC CD ROM guide. I stopped because a customer like this couldn't read the CD ROM. I couldn't understand WHY, because I tested all of them before I shipped them out. I sent not one but 2 replacement disks......After "don't do business with this guy" thread I got, I was able to determine that he was putting the CD in UPSIDE DOWN!!!

Lesson: If you give a seller a chance to solve a problem, they usually exceed your expectations! People don't go into business to disapoint customers & don't STAY in business if they do

Just my 2 cents........

5, 12:28 AM]

Wow, for consistent templates, it must be pretty bad luck to ship a guy out two bad templates in a row, eh? I didn't see a public apology or an admittance of being wrong either? Good thing Alex showed up to straigthen everything out, otherwise I have the feeling that Helge would be out of luck.

Helge, I'm curious as to the offer? I hope he's going to pay for the wood that was ruined because of the template.

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Sounds to me like you need to give Ronny a chance. Obviously when there was a problem he sent a new set of templates and covered shipping. If this is an honest mistake (or a possible manufacturing error, that was not noticed) well these things can happen. He has a good reputation for building nice templates, and even Heige said he is very happy with his Strat templates. I really don't think Ronny owes any public appology or admittance of anything. How he works this out with his customer is really between he and Heige. If Heige is satisfied with the arrangement thats all that matters.

Peace,Rich

Also...a quick way to tell "authenic" relics

The cracks in the finish typically go horizontally on a real vintage guitar

Relics are most often vertical cracks in the finish

I know it sounds silly, but do the research....you will see!

I dont have any photos handy, but you can also "Control the cracking to some degree by scoring this poly with a razor knife and when you freeze it it will tend to follow the score lines

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Scott:

You got this method to work on a poly finish????

I know you and I were talking a long time ago about trying some relicing on your poly body.

Any pics?

Get about 6 cans of compressed Air (Computer Dusters) Leave Body in sun to warm for 1/2 hour. Shake can 1 Vigirously, turn upsidedown, Aim straw at guitar, spray, watch finish crack. repeat while using a different can each time until desired effect is achieved

Side note, don't stick tongue to can when the can gets cold

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You can do it....but it is PAINSTAKING detail. It involves scoring horizontally with an exacto knife.

It can be done, but Nitro cracking looks more authentic (and it is WAY easier).

The only way you can crack Poly by freezing is to use liquid nitrogen...which is a BLAST to do, but expensive and hard to get

Yes, I've heard that the poly will melt back together or something if it cracks. But I also heard someone found a way to crack it. I'll just wait for them to come out and tell us

*HINT HINT*

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happy berf day tu yew!!!!

Thanks Wes:

As far as Maple boards go...just mask them off & be careful & patient!

No real mystery...just a steady hand & lots of care!

it has been brought up numerous times actually,dave.

the consensus is that the bearings are not made to withstand the side stress,and that it turns too slowly to cut cleanly.

hey dave,not to hijack...but you do maple fretboards all the time...how do you keep them clean during fret dressing?do you just mask them off?

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I did a search on this topic and can't believe it has never been brought up before.

Here is my question...I have a drillpress and I am in the process of making copies of the many templates of the bodies I have been building lately. I was wondering if if I could simply use the tracing router bit in my drillpress.

It would almost be like a pin router and sure would save a bunch of time...

Has anyone done this?

Tim:

OUTSTANDING IDEA!!!!

I think your idea is the winner for me!

About the routing. I did some of my LP top carving with a router bit attached to a drill press. If you'd do it that way you wouldn't need a huge router base etc.

You'd have to take it slow, since I wouldn't take much at a time, but I think it would work to remove a top. Just make sure the guitar bottom and drill press base are flat.

Just a thought Can't really help much more, since I haven't even finished my first guitar 

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Big D:

Thanks for the post

Those were my thoughts as well on the process. I just want to see if anyone has been brave enough to do this. I am curious on how difficult the actual process is from someone that has tried it.

Removing the neck makes me nervous & I want to get feedback from thos who were successful

Anyone out there who has done this? Pix would be great

not done it but assume it would go something like this:

pull neck pull out all the electronics, start passing it through the sander/ planer, or if you have a large enough band saw you could just slice off the top, 'gasp'.

retop it clean the edges up throw it on a cnc or copy carver...

finish it - I would assume you would have to refin the whole guitar.

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O.K. I know it is dangerous to ever cite Ed Roman as a referance on this site...and my post is not intended to be the starting point of another "Roman bashing" string

That being said......I have always been interested in his claims of being able to "re-top" Les Pauls. I would love to hear from anyone that has actually done it & determine what steps were involved.

I would think that you would have some serious work to do to accomplish this feat, but I wanted to get feedback from those who have done it , or know the process.

Can anyone shed any light on this process?

Dave K

Wow, there has been a LOT of interest in relicing lately!

I have actually justy finished a CD Rom on relicing that I plan on selling on e-bay

I have also figured out a way to relic POLY bodies!!!

I don't want to give ALL my secrets away...but if there is a particular area you are interested in, i am sure I can post some tips

Dave

(Fenders preferably, but Gibson wear would be interesting to read..

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My Melody Maker turns 40 years old this year...still a beautiful guitar...tons of checking--but strangely mostly on the body, very little on the neck. Plenty of little pits and scars ...but surprisingly in good shape, considering I use to throw this guitar across the stage once in a while (the bass player used to throw my Univox Hi-flyer at me...).

So yeah, if you're going to do a Gibson-style relic, you'd want to get lots of checking in there...

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You can't ever really screw up if you remember never to cut all the way through the clear.

For some reason, Gibsons tend to have crack lines closer together, so they require more work.

That's pretty incredible Dave. Is that one of the relics for the Gibson custom shop? That sheds some light on why their prices are so high. I'd be scared to try the razorblade method (although it can obviously give great results) for fear of just making it look dumb. It seems like that technique would be very difficult to master.

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To each their own........

My point is not to convert those that don't like relics over to the "dark side". I am simply trying to demonstrate that the Murphy technique does, in fact, look very authentic when it comes to checking.

Let me assure you that a LOT of time and dedication was put into doing this BY HAND, not machine!

The topic is "how do you crack a finish".....not "do you LIKE a cracked finish"

That just looks like machine marks to me, i dont like it. Relic strats are nice, but pristene Les Pauls are even better. And on topic, i would hit my finish with a big ole block of wood, but im no relic-er.

Just my .02 pence

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Here is an example of the Murphy technique done on a Les Paul Headstock (Thanks to Bowser for the tip on Photobucket.com)

Thoughts?