brewu22

EMG pickups= I wouldn't worry about the wood so much. I know a guy that made a strat copy out of the maple you talked about and it sounded good, single coil pickups and all. If it ends up too bright or too muddy, thats what EQ is for.

Can't seem to find the thread, but I am sure it was here that I read that damping the channel with a little water worked really well. It did when I tried it on my first (and only) strat like ax.

Denis

This would be if you were using Titebond or similar wood glue (holds true anytime you use titebond).

Peace,Rich

I know that that works good for end grain with titebond, but doesn't CA need moisture to cure?

try bondo.. I've heard that bondo does wonders w/ refinishing guitars as opposed to epoxy, b/c epoxy when it is drying it tends to settle and run.. bondo will take care of that. you can find it at any automotive parts store

i hear bondo will loosen and fall out on wood

Never heard that before, stuff doesn't fall out of cars going down bumpy roads. Never had a problem with it.

alot of the usefulness or lack thereof of power amp clipping depends on the style of music as well...most metal guys don't like power amp clipping,while alot of blues guys do...

Mesa 50/50 power amp on 6 when playin live, no clipping, sounds sweet

If we learned anything from "I,Robot"(the movie,not the Heinlin book)It is that robots can never be trusted...so unless you want to be killed by your own guitar,leave that abomination on the shelf.

Besides...what if you were walking through your guitar room naked,accidentally tripped and fell across your guitar,tangling your "sack" in the strings just as you hit the "tune to G" button by accident?

It could happen.

:D

Hey, more overlap than I thought. I did not know that Kirk Hammet was in Exodus before Metallica, yes it was Dave Mustaine I was thinking about. I haven’t listened to much from Exodus except that awesome version of ‘Bitch’ on the ‘Paint it Black’ album. Rawwwk solo and the stereo throb effect on the guitars is fantastic, if you listen to it loud on headphones it feels like your brain is being massaged.

Exodus, very cool people to hang out with. Opened for them in 1990 on the on the Fab Disaster tour, 1 date. It was a reception hall for gods sake Had a lot of fun that night.

Poison is more like "spoof" hair metal...

Spew metal

I think that in most cases,the root cause of band bashing IS jealousy.It is jealousy that one band gets more credit than they may deserve while a truly good band gets less...to deny it is just silly in my opinion.Just admit it and be done with it...why SHOULD Dragonforce have any respect for the cheese they produce?

Nirvana for example...Kurt Cobain gets credit as a "guitarist" when he was just a hack,because he was a good pop songwriter and his songs appealed to a large group,while greater guitarists such as Rick Hunolt,Gary Holt,etc get much less credit because they never sold out,and their music only appeals to a few.

+1 Exodus kick ass

I have been working on what I have dubbed the squidocaster. I am tricking it out as much as possible and I was wondering would it be hard to cut a piece of matching pickguard material and connecting it to the headstock with 4 screws. I think I would have to heat gun the nut side to get it to conform to the shape but would it be bulky or cause any tone problems?

Depends on how thick it is, your tuners might not sit at the right height with the added thickness. The string posts will be short. What material are you using?

What do you guys think of this? Does it make that big of a difference? Will a wood pickguard help?

http://www.mother-of-tone.com/lacquer.htm

Thanks for the help.

Personally, I think that page is total BS

+1 bunch of BS

looks nice, good job.

I think that some have had good results with Acrylic Lacquer, or Acrylic something or other

Acrylic is.....um...plastic.

There must be other sources for nitro though.

I like nitro, it's definitely pretty easy to use and looks great. But I'm having trouble getting past the environmental/toxic part.

I'm interested in using the KTM9 that LMII is selling --anyone know if it's the same stuff as the water-based finish StewMac is selling?

Also, I played around with a tung oil varnish on one guitar --at first I didn't like the results, but it's been close to a year now and I have to say, the guitar is looking pretty good now (I rebuffed it a couple of months ago). I think the oil just needed a really long cure time. Don't know if I'm patient enough to use it again though, not if it takes a 6-month wait before the guitar is ready! But it has the avantage of being non-toxic, all-natural.

Oops, I'm rambling.

I think the stew mac stuff is the Target Coatings waterbase spray lacquer. Not bad stuff, pretty hard after about a week.

I have stained sample pieces of mahogany with red type dyes, a lot of the brown of the mahogany still shows through. I am not sure if the brown and green will mix well, all you can do is try it on scrap and see if you like it.

How about a color changing paint, color depends on what angle the guitar is viewed. The paint is expensive 30 to 40 bucks for 4oz at a auto paint shop, but that amount is enough for 2 guitars if you follow the instructions. Have fun. By the way colored squares would look way to retro 80's in my opinion.

Are you sure the back is mahogany? Maybe it is alder or ash? I dont remember reading about a jackson made out of mahogany, but I could be wrong.

Normally a regular veneer is very thin, like 1/32", and that would not support the controls. I am told that doing a veneer job is not for the beginner, the job sounds simple, but it is not. My opinion is to make a new body, it would be much easier than patching holes and putting a veneer on a pre-shaped body. Just my .02

I liked it better without the brown on it..

I am no expert at this, and please wait for a voice with more experience to speak up, but. I have always seen a set neck guitar neck glued into place before finishing. If you did them separately, too much of a chance of getting finish where the glue joint will be, plus gluing and clamping on a fresh finish doesn't sound like a good idea to me. As for front and back at the same time, depends on what you are doing, paint, stain, a burst, or clear coat.

Cheers for the quick reply Mattia!

I've had a look at the gun - looks nice, and if it's as good as you say, I'm sure it'll be worth the investment. When talking about tips, what is meant by "SR"? The gun is also described as HVLP, which I understand is "high volume low pressure" - great - but how low is low pressure?

Also, with regards to the compressor, are there any specific numbers I should be looking out for? Minimum required CFMs or PSIs?

Thank again

Hello, low pressure means you feed it 40 psi and the gun converts it to 10 psi at the cap where the paint comes out. More paint with less over spray. As for CFM's get as big a compressor as you can afford, the more CFM's the better, a big tank with a 5 or 6 HP motor. Thats if you want to run other air operated equipment with it. I use a 2 HP with a 4 gallon tank, it can hardly keep up with a 1 MM tip HVLP gun. Just my 2 cents.

Maybe a 4 flute end mill of the correct diameter in your drill press. Just a thought. Test on scrap, and make sure your piece is secure with no movement.

Got a Used "Bendmaster Deluxe" Tremolo Which I want to know if it is Complete.

Looking for a Tremolo Bar, Anchors and Bridge height Adjustment Screws for it.

I guess it might originally be for a Westone Guitar.

Heard that Floyd Rose Parts would fit on it, but my "Licence" trem bar won't.

I Found that the upper anchor cavity is larger than the lower, so it must need two Differently dimensioned Adjustment Screws

Is the bar a screw in type, or a push in?

That is some really clean looking poplar. Good job so far, Drak IS a finish expert, very good advice, have fun with your build. Can't wait to see it finished.

I am finishing my first build and can not get the poplar body smooth. The finish on my maple neck is very good but no matter what I try the poplar body remains very "fluffy". I have tried slowly going through sandpaper grades using 3m gold fre-cut sandpaper from stewmac and sanding with the grain but if anything I get better results using a basic detail sander. The sides are especially bad.

Any ideas?

I would prefer to use something like Danish Oil as a finish - but will try anything if it fixes the rough poplar.

Thanks.

How dry is the wood you are using? Got any pictures? I have made 3 guitar bodies out of poplar with no sanding problems. Are you sure you want a clear finish on poplar? I have seen some really nice looking poplar, but very few and far between, most of the stuff is green looking and ugly.

ya im in the states and i checked a fender guard up against it already of course with my luck it didnt fit. Is it possible to cut it rough with a jigsaw then do the bevel by hand with a file?

If you use the right kind of blade for the jigsaw, you should be able to get one for plastic. If you are going to hand bevel, I would do the rough bevel with a dremel, then finish with a file. I have never done this, be it seems possible.