brewu22

Not sure how to fix this, but you can use mineral spirits in the future, and you will not have to worry about finish cracking. You do have to do it in a well ventilated area.

Did you do a bridge replacement? If you did make sure the tension springs are not touching the body of the guitar in the trem rout. If the springs are dragging on the wood, it can cause that problem.

I am a figment of your imagination.

The stewmac stuff stays soft for a long time. Give it a couple of weeks, or you will have to buff it again.

So me and a friend of a family (who is a carpenter) are planning on building a guitar.

The specs will be:

Soloist shape

Floyd Rose

2X Hum's and one single coil

Mahogony body with a yellow to green flamed maple top

Now, I have read many guides but I still have some questions:

1. I saw some 27 fret guitars and I want mine to have 27 frets. What scale length should I use?

2. if Scale length = distance from bridge to nut, how do I meause a scale length for a floyded guitar?

3. Is it possible to have a flamed or quilted fretboard?

Thanks for the help

1.) Do you really think you need 27 frets, and the scale depends on what scale you want the guitar to be.

2.) You already answered your own question

3.) Yes, but you will have to put a finish on it to seal it.

36th fret

Grain filling Pine?

My personnel opinion (please read that again) is of you want a cheap wood to use on a guitar (I can see no other reason for using pine), buy Poplar instead, Its almost the same price and as a guitar wood will provide a predictable outcome.

+1 use poplar

I was wondering if i could do a binding job without having to refinish everything. Is it possible?

1. No

I was also thinking of being cheaper and just spraying a binding on.

2. Sorry, but a refinish would also be required.

An even worse step would be to get cream line tape and use that around the body. Does anyone know where i can get some?

3. that would look bad

I was hoping to save the excess money for EMG 81s.

From this (Schecter Omen 6)-

To this (Schecter C-1 Blackjack) -

Sorry about the large images.

If you want a quality job, you have to take quality steps to make it look good, anything else will look bad.

I have seen people clamp a straight edge to the board to act as a guide for a router. The then trim up the end with the router. The end result turned out very nice. Hope that helps. Good luck.

+1 to this, worked really well for me. use a new piece of mdf for the edge.

Yep, What Erik said. depending on how strong you want the carve, 1/2"-3/4" will do the job. The 1/2" sometimes can get a bit thin if you carve strong, 3/4" would allow you to maintain 1/4" and get a good strong carve(and account for a bit of surfacing).

Peace,Rich

sorry for being in the wrong forum, i just click post new topic whenever i see it. i will be more careful now.

thanks for the replies tho

you are not in the wrong section for this question. I do not know about your other posts, but this one is fine.

This is the wrong section for your last several threads. This section is for pictures and updates of in-progress and finished work, as the name implies.

What are you talking about?

I believe that is a "Mockingbird" style body, BC Rich maybe?

Sorry, but not even close.

What's the best way to get a flat finish with the paint that you can get from Stewmac?

Depends on what you mean by flat. Are you talking about flat, meaning no gloss? Or are you talking about no orange peel in the finish?

Here is tonight's progress:

- Headstock carved and sanded.

- Truss rod cover laminated and cut to shape (still need to route the edge).

Here is the headstock rough carved:

and here it is sanded with the truss rod cover in place:

I am wondering if anyone has experience using poplar for the body? It's not my first choice but I have a whack of it laying around so if I can put it to use why not?!

Cheers!

STV.

I have used poplar on several guitars, the sound is good. Poplar is a little soft, so you need a tough finish. just my 2 cents

i have created a monster!

Yes, yes you have

Remember, the only person who never makes a mistake is the person who never does anything.

I used to tell the people I was training the same thing Or the worst question, is the one that is never asked..

I do not have ANY planer at the moment. I need some to plane a body blank, to plane a fingerboard or neck FB surfaces.

I have been checking prices and I don't quite understand:

A pretty decent electric planer goes for about eur150, while that kind of money isn't even in the ballpark of the price of a good hand planer.

What am I missing here ?? There seems to be something mystical about hand planers...

What can you do with the hand tool that you cannot with do the power tool ?? Waat is each one good for, then ??

Can someone please enlighten a newbie ??

TIA

Not sure where you are getting your pricing from, can you give us some links to what you are talking about.

Using steel for a beam sounds good to me, especially if you can bolt or weld multiple pieces together. Don't tell me you TIG weld, or I'll get jealous.

And be careful not to leave the engineering cap on too long. Sometimes engineers do nothing but ruin a perfectly good thing.

hehe I can TIG, MIG, and stick, but now have no access to those tools. +1 to engineers, gotta watch em. Screw up a one cow cattle drive.

This is a Charvel 2c body that i purchased off a local music store owner named Mr. Maggio. Mr. Maggio hand painted this body which I think is exceptionally cool. I am trying to find a charvel neck to put on her but havent had much luck so I will probably have Warmoth make me up a neck. I have all the original hardware and an original Bill Lawrence XL500 for total screams. She only has one pick up and is just going to be a scream machine. My only problem is I do not know what type of tremelo brigge she needs. I dont think an Original Schaller would fit. I want to put something really nice in that bride, I just dont know what fits. I dont want to jump the gun and buy an expensive bridge if I know it might not fit. I really am clueless on this one so any help possible would really be awesome. The first pic is an upclose shot of the trem area. The second is a full shot of the body. Thanks!!

Trem Area

Full Body

Looks like a very poorly routed recessed floyd rose. but I am just guessing. Hard to tell from the close up picture.

I would recommend just roughening up the existing finish and spray your new finish over top of the old.

Look at your existing finish as a nice and already existing convenient 'primer' coat, saving you a LOT of extra work if you remove it all the way to bare wood and start over from scratch, just to wind up putting the same thing right back on again.

+1 it will save a lot of time and work.

(although I would ask you the same question with your obsession with genuine sounding PAF pickups!).

peace,

russ

See again you must not read before posting cause I am pushing for pickup builder to move on & try some new things , in fact a flickoflash model pickup may soon be available from a reputable builder which touches again on non same old same old line of thinking. Does wood of the same species sound different from guitar to guitar ... is it maybe something to do with it cells formations & alignments ?

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/

Finally, the freakin sales pitch

what if this process was applied to guitar hardware & pickups ?

You'd find a grand new way of wasting money on improvements you'll never need or hear. Of course, some joe is going to say he hears a difference, and then he's going to convince everyone else of it, and charge them tons of money to have it done to their guitars.

http://www.nwcryo.com/pricelist_master.html

looks rather cheap to me

Than by all means, go for it. Tell use the wonders you discover. Keep in mind you're talking to a mechanical engineering student who studies this stuff on a daily basis and understands the applications. You're wasting your time here; I'm not saying that to burst your bubble. I'm just trying to save you time and money.

peace,

russ

+1

Having put any picture of work here in a while and I thought this piece was very cool.

If you don't know what this is, then it's probably past your bedtime

Very cool indeed.

Looks good to me...

Thanks, I thought it was a good price, I just wanted to make sure I was getting the right equipment.