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Posts posted by brewu22
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What kind of filters do I need for spraying paint? Particulate Aerosols, or Organic Vapor?
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Try here, I think I will buy a set next time I bind a guitar.
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Depending on what kind of finish the guitar has on it, will determine how much sanding you will have to do. If it is polyester, you have your work cut out for you. I have yet to find a paint remover that can remove that stuff. As for the round-over, I think that would be a pretty large radius, depending on the size of the binding. I would do what Russ said, and tape it off, strip what you can, and sand the rest. Good luck.
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Well I painted the guitar, you have to make sure your gun is set up perfect. The front looks good, but the back has some slight imperfections. The Clear that I use bonded well. I will post pictures when I get it buffed out.
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I just got a 4oz bottle of Gem Chameleon for the Strat type body that I am painting. I have used Createx paints with the Target coatings water based system that I use. I think it should be fine, but wanted to know if anyone else has used it?
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Top and Bottom Channels? I am only doing the top of the guitar(not that I know what you mean by top and bottom, so it might mean something totally different then the top and bottom of the guitar ). And I don't have a router let alone a router table. I might be getting enough money to buy a router set but I still wont have a router table, and thats if I could even afford the router set. But that you for the advice. So do you guys like Lacewood or quilted sapele better ?
How are you going to build a guitar without a router? My router is one of the most used tools in my shop. You could do it without one, but it would be much more difficult, and easier to screw up. IMHO
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At this point, double sided tape is your friend, and imho, it will work. I used it to cut my routes and it held fine. Just don't jam your router into it too hard, just use it as a guide like it's intended.
What kind of tape? Is it something you can get @ Home Depot or something? Is residue a problem?
I use carpet tape from The Home Depot, works good. It sometimes leaves a little residue, but easy to get off.
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Get hardwood dowels to fill those holes. I've done it before, it works quite well.
+1
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I installed my first Kahler trem today. I will never install another Floyd style trem again. The route was so much easier to do, and adjust ability just can't be beat.
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i do not ground anything with my actives...most of the time i don't even sheild them....it just isn't necessary with emg.
and i play at insane volume within about 5 feet of my amp at all times
Well, you do have to ground the battery circuit, otherwise they don't work.
I always ground the shielding on the quick connect wires, but I bought an RG760 a while back that came with EMG's pre-installed, and they don't have anything grounded except the battery circuit, and it sounds fine. Needs a new 5-way though.
I don't know a lot about wiring at all really. But for the circuit for a Emg to be grounded, doesn't a wire need to be attached to the bridge? Or, is it grounding its circuit within itself?
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Typically you route your neck pocket and install/route for the bridge afterwards, so the angle would be taken into account automatically.
+1
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Hi,
anyone know where I can get stronger tremelo springs so that I can go form 3 to 2 in the back of a floyd equipped guitar.... I need to only have two springs in order to give me enough space to accomodate a circuitboard I have made.
Best wishes
Steve
What is the circuit board for?
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How punky (soft) is that spalt top?
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That is one ugly headstock. What were they thinking.
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Finished!!! I still need to wet sand it and buff it, but it looks great!! gotta love touch up guns!
How did the drilling of hole for the wiring of the input jack go? I was just worried about hitting the Floyd route and not the pickup cavity when I did my king v.
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Hello all,
I was wondering if, with proper reinforcement (carbon fiber, strong fretboard, etc.) basswood would work as a neck? Anyone ever use it before? Reason I'm asking is I have a good size slab of basswood that I can either get 2 bodies out of, with a good amount of wasted wood (can't fit a 3rd in), or try a one-piece guitar.
Speaking of, anyone ever try a one piece guitar? Better than a neck through? I'd assume that mahogany would be a better choice, but again, basswood is what I have.
Thanks!
-K
Why would you want to make a one piece guitar? I have heard that asked before, I think the answer was, yes, it can be done, but vary difficult to do. Basswood for a neck, someone will have a better answer for that than me. Good luck with your build.
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that was the only one i had! i had to use this one with a ball end, which was NOT fun. iv found a site with them on in the uk which is good, and theres some cheap ones too. not carbide but at a seventh of the price, i can live with that
Nice job on your first inlay. Could you give us some info on where to get the inlay bits you are talking about. And if anyone else knows where we might get them in th U.S. I know Stewmac is making a killing on those. I have bought 2 from them so far, and I need a cheaper source.
Thanks.
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why did jackson put a veneer on a solid color guitar did it have a transparent before?
Even the older Charvels had some sort of veneer on the front and back. I think it was for dent resistance. The veneer is a very ugly brown color.
I dont know about the old charvels,its possible they used a much harder wood fromt and back for some protection - but that wont have been the case on this guitar!!!
It was just for the sake of general knowledge. I knew it wasn't the case for this guitar.
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Has anyone tried the Fender VG strat? I have not tried one yet.
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gibson always leave a gap there and its not really an issue since that area wwould be an end grain glue joint anyway and its a good idea to have a way to let excess glue escape - but there is absolutely no reason for the gap to be as big as that - unless BFG stands for Big f***** Gap
+1
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With all this technology available today (not that its needed), Gibson still cant get a neck joint right...
Wow, didn't even notice that when I looked at the pic, yeah that neck pocket work is worth 2500.00
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i do not ground anything with my actives...most of the time i don't even sheild them....it just isn't necessary with emg.
and i play at insane volume within about 5 feet of my amp at all times
+1
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In the Stripping by using chemicals topic, there is a note stating that this method is only recommended for "already refinished" guitars. I have an electric guitar which is about 15 years old, but with the original paint. Why is this method only recommended for already refinished guitars? If I use this method, will it hurt the guitar?
Thanks in advance,
Nat
If you were doing a already refinished guitar, you might know what kind of finish it has on it. What kind of guitar do you have? If you could research, and find out what finish it has on it, it would be a world of help. Even guitars 15-20 years old were finished with polyester. Polyester is a real pain to remove. All the strippers that I tried barely hazed the finish. You can try some over the counter strippers, you will know if it is polyester right away. If it is this type of poly, you would need to sand, or use heat. If you do either do it in a well ventilated area. The gasses off this stuff will kill you. Hope this helps, and if anyone knows a chemical stripper for polyester, please, speak up.
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why did jackson put a veneer on a solid color guitar did it have a transparent before?
Even the older Charvels had some sort of veneer on the front and back. I think it was for dent resistance. The veneer is a very ugly brown color.
Respirator
in Inlays and Finishing Chat
Posted
Thanks, I was thinking about getting this, with a set of these. What do you think?