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brewu22

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Posts posted by brewu22

  1. Organic vapour. Catches it all. Particulates are for dust/physical components of lacquer, but you want maximum protection.

    I use a respirator with P2 dust filters over the organic vapour filters (because they don't come any other way, not that model) for sanding, without the dust filters for shooting finish, waterbased or otherwise.

    Thanks, I was thinking about getting this, with a set of these. What do you think?

  2. Depending on what kind of finish the guitar has on it, will determine how much sanding you will have to do. If it is polyester, you have your work cut out for you. I have yet to find a paint remover that can remove that stuff. As for the round-over, I think that would be a pretty large radius, depending on the size of the binding. I would do what Russ said, and tape it off, strip what you can, and sand the rest. Good luck.

  3. Top and Bottom Channels? I am only doing the top of the guitar(not that I know what you mean by top and bottom, so it might mean something totally different then the top and bottom of the guitar :D ). And I don't have a router let alone a router table. I might be getting enough money to buy a router set but I still wont have a router table, and thats if I could even afford the router set. But that you for the advice. So do you guys like Lacewood or quilted sapele better :D ?

    How are you going to build a guitar without a router? B) My router is one of the most used tools in my shop. You could do it without one, but it would be much more difficult, and easier to screw up. IMHO :D

  4. At this point, double sided tape is your friend, and imho, it will work. I used it to cut my routes and it held fine. Just don't jam your router into it too hard, just use it as a guide like it's intended.

    What kind of tape? Is it something you can get @ Home Depot or something? Is residue a problem?

    I use carpet tape from The Home Depot, works good. It sometimes leaves a little residue, but easy to get off.

  5. i do not ground anything with my actives...most of the time i don't even sheild them....it just isn't necessary with emg.

    and i play at insane volume within about 5 feet of my amp at all times

    Well, you do have to ground the battery circuit, otherwise they don't work. :D

    I always ground the shielding on the quick connect wires, but I bought an RG760 a while back that came with EMG's pre-installed, and they don't have anything grounded except the battery circuit, and it sounds fine. Needs a new 5-way though.

    I don't know a lot about wiring at all really. :D But for the circuit for a Emg to be grounded, doesn't a wire need to be attached to the bridge? Or, is it grounding its circuit within itself?

  6. body cut out.. the darker patch is where i got a dent on the spalt so had to steam it out - should be fine once its dried out!!!

    12-2.jpg

    and the neck just prior to gluing on the fretboard:

    th_19.jpg

    the neck is zebrano and bocote and the fretboard is bocote. Gonna use a 6 a side headstock for a change!!

    How punky (soft) is that spalt top?

  7. Hello all,

    I was wondering if, with proper reinforcement (carbon fiber, strong fretboard, etc.) basswood would work as a neck? Anyone ever use it before? Reason I'm asking is I have a good size slab of basswood that I can either get 2 bodies out of, with a good amount of wasted wood (can't fit a 3rd in), or try a one-piece guitar.

    Speaking of, anyone ever try a one piece guitar? Better than a neck through? I'd assume that mahogany would be a better choice, but again, basswood is what I have.

    Thanks!

    -K

    Why would you want to make a one piece guitar? I have heard that asked before, I think the answer was, yes, it can be done, but vary difficult to do. Basswood for a neck, someone will have a better answer for that than me. Good luck with your build.

  8. that was the only one i had! i had to use this one with a ball end, which was NOT fun. iv found a site with them on in the uk which is good, and theres some cheap ones too. not carbide but at a seventh of the price, i can live with that

    Nice job on your first inlay. Could you give us some info on where to get the inlay bits you are talking about. And if anyone else knows where we might get them in th U.S. I know Stewmac is making a killing on those. I have bought 2 from them so far, and I need a cheaper source.

    Thanks.

  9. why did jackson put a veneer on a solid color guitar did it have a transparent before?

    Even the older Charvels had some sort of veneer on the front and back. I think it was for dent resistance. The veneer is a very ugly brown color.

    I dont know about the old charvels,its possible they used a much harder wood fromt and back for some protection - but that wont have been the case on this guitar!!!

    It was just for the sake of general knowledge. I knew it wasn't the case for this guitar. :D

  10. In the Stripping by using chemicals topic, there is a note stating that this method is only recommended for "already refinished" guitars. I have an electric guitar which is about 15 years old, but with the original paint. Why is this method only recommended for already refinished guitars? If I use this method, will it hurt the guitar?

    Thanks in advance,

    Nat

    If you were doing a already refinished guitar, you might know what kind of finish it has on it. What kind of guitar do you have? If you could research, and find out what finish it has on it, it would be a world of help. Even guitars 15-20 years old were finished with polyester. Polyester is a real pain to remove. All the strippers that I tried barely hazed the finish. You can try some over the counter strippers, you will know if it is polyester right away. If it is this type of poly, you would need to sand, or use heat. If you do either do it in a well ventilated area. The gasses off this stuff will kill you. Hope this helps, and if anyone knows a chemical stripper for polyester, please, speak up.

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