brewu22

No problem man, I am happy with what I've got because it was cheap.

And since I am a pretty cheap and stingy guy myself, I'm really satisfied.

Speaking about cheapness and being cheap: do you know of a good source for dirty-chep (second hand?) Telecaster parts like pickuards, bidges and electronics controls paltes?

Anyone has some for sale?

Thnaks!

Guitar fetish Not used but the quality is not bad..

My personal feeling is that since you already have the 4-pole switch (as opposed to a standard 5-way Fender switch), you have a few good options that don't require additional mini-switches. My PERSONAL feeling is that there's no point burdening yourself with a tonne of options. Here are a pair of choices from GuitarElectronics that will work with your HS3 in neck and bridge, and your Fender single-coil in the middle:

http://guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHSH5L1103

http://guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHSH5L1102

Remember, your HS3 have 4-conductor wiring just like any modern "splittable" humbucker... so you don't need to look for specialized diagrams for single-coil-sized humbuckers. A diagram using any 4-conductor humbuckers, a superswitch, and a single coil will work fine, so if you know of a guitar that has the configuration you want, you can just give'er. Some manufacturers have custom "superswitches", which won't be helpful, but the research will eventually yield fruit.

DiMarzio's own site is a bit trickier to navigate, but I'm sure some exploration would yield results. None of the diagrams reached through the HS3 sub-page cut it, but that doesn't mean DiMarzio doesn't have the answers. Also, pickup companies' tech departments often have informal tech diagrams lying around. EMG's techs were kind enough to send me a few once upon a time and I bet DiMarzio would be able to do the same-- just let them know what you're after.

Alternatively, if you still have your standard Fender switch around, you can even say "screw it" to mucking around with coil split, and go for something like this:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/schem...H_1v_1t_5w.html

The HS3s would just be wired in series (that's the 'wired together and taped off' part) and otherwise treated the same way you'd treat 3 single-coils.

----

Bottom line, there's no reason on earth to pick a configuration that will have your HS3 only ever using one coil. There's no point. You definitely want to find a diagram that will allow you to use them as humbuckers in some or all positions, IMO.

Greg

Miss your old avatar Greg.

Why are the older pots that come with Emg pickups so stiff? When the price was right a couple of years ago, I bought many sets on ebay. Can someone suggest a replacement pot that is not so stiff.

This is what Happend when I used Bondo.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=29766&hl=

I have used bondo for dent filling with no painting problems at all. I use A urathane sealer and acrylic laquer paint. I would not recomend bondo as a pore filler. It would be to hard to get the hardener mix ratio right so you could spread it onto the body. It would either harden too fast and not get into the pores, or harden too slow and never fully cure.

do you tape off your binding on your guitar or spray you finish over it

Depends on what you are doing. If you are painting, you can mask it off, then build up the difference with clear. One other method is to paint the binding along with the rest of the body, then scrape the paint off the binding, then clear over the entire body. The last method is if you are going a natural finish is to make sure the binding is flush with the body, then clear over the entire thing. You are either going to scrape paint off the binding or not. The last step IS to

clearcoat the binding along with the body. Hope this helps.

lookin good. sanding can be a real pain. also in case you didnt notice you sanded through your sealer in a few places so it would be a very wise idea to seal it before you paint. on my first guitar i painted i ended up spending way more than i needed to on paint because i didnt seal it well enough and the grain was showing through. have you decided on what color you are oing to paint it?

He is not painting it, he wants to stain, and burst it.

I've been working with KTM-9 waterbase laquer and System-3 Epoxy as a grainfill.

I'd like to do some staining on my current projects - particularly, a hand-rubbed burst-sort of finish. (I've been experimenting with both hand-applied and sprayed finishes, and on these padauk tops, I think a more subtle one-or-two tone burst will give me the effect that I want.)

Thing is, I haven't managed to use stains or dyes in conjunction with the KTM-9/System 3 finishing method with much luck. The couple of times I've experimented with staining wood under these finishes, when I apply the epoxy grainfill, it pulls up some of the colour, and it smears around. I actually just "dealt with it" on one build - made sure I sanded the grainfill down until it was just in the pores of the wood, which removed any haze (and added a nice character to the wood) and scraped the binding well where the colour had gone over that.

Thing is, if I do a really nice sunburst, I don't want applying my grainfill to smear it all around.

I suppose one option is to do the grainfill first, and spray the burst over it, but my experimenting has been that colouring the wood directly is going to give me the look that I'd like. (I'm thinking like some of those old tobacco gibson mandolins, but with the red of the padauk instead of the yellow hue)

So I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong - it could be the dyes and stains I've tried, it could be I've not let them dry enough. Maybe I should spray a sealer coat of my finish before laying down the epoxy?

I'll continue experimenting on scrap, but I thought if anyone could point me in the direction of a colorant I should try, it'd be appreciated. I'm thinking I'll try the Colortone Liquid Stain from Stewmac (I need to order some stuff from there anyway) if that sounds like a good idea. (I've tried some artists alchohol aniline dyes, and Minwax stains)

+1 on sealing the wood with something before grain filling. The ktm-9 should seal it just fine. Its always best to stick with a finishing system that is compatible. If you can, try it on some scrap first. Good luck.

Nice simple question:

Can I apply createx autoair paints straight on to bare wood or do I need to do something to the wood first?

Also, are there any (cheaper) alternative waterbased acrylic paints? createx seems to be a bit expensive.

Thanks!

Nick

Depending on what you are doing, I think you will want to seal the wood first. That will prevent the wood from absorbing all the paint that you apply. Yes you acn get cheaper paint, but at a reduced quality.

No estimates on price?

where are you located? That would help. I am not qualified to do such work. There are others around this fourm that could do that job for you.

i'm working on a custom tele project that requires black tuners. my neck is a standard MIM maple. unfortunately, these necks require tuners of the two-prong, screwless variety, and fender only makes them in chrome and gold. more unfortunate for me, fender makes the only tuners that will fit this neck (schaller does make a screwless, 10mm, two-prong tuner in black, but the two prongs are just ever so slightly too close to the peg). if i want to modify the neck, i can get just about anything to work. but i want to avoid drilling holes, plugging holes, etc. basically, i just don't want to mod this neck. that leaves my only option to paint the tuners. i'm not sure how well this will work out. i'm concerned about what type of paint to use for small, metal, moving parts, too. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am not a paint expert but, if they are made of metal, it would be strip, prime, and paint. are they able to be disassembled?

That would help a lot. I am thinking poly for this, for durability. Just my 2 cents. I am sure someone with more experience will chime in soon. Got any pics?

Hi Greg,

i´m afraid you may be right.. The special piece of spalted maple i´ve only seen on photos yet. It seems that it´s not that rotten and at least a little bit stable. Perhaps i should stabilize it with CA before staining. But is staining still possible after that as i guess the CA "seals" all the pores in the wood, doesn´t it?

Or should i try to tint the oil? But with what?

All pieces of spalted wood are different. If you dont have your hands on the wood, its hard to say what it will need. No, if you stabilize with CA, you will not be able to stain it. The more punky (soft) the wood is, the more CA it will take, spalted drinks CA like water. My advice would be stabilize with CA, then tint your clear coat. My first spalted top didn't look that rotted, but some of the lighter colored spots were as soft as balsa wood. No matter what you do, you will have to be careful with it untill you get it stabilized. Hope this helps. If you need more info on spalted wood, PM Drak, he has used the stuff a lot.

yeah that thread is unbelievable. Words cannot express how erm..."upset" I would be to have that happen to me. I have had something similar but nowhere near that scale of incompetence.

As for the inserts...you can buy recoil sets fairly cheaply, once you have the set with the tools the inserts aren't much at all: http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.as...CFQvmlAodjxE4zw

I am not sure if this type of threaded insert would work with wood too well. I have used a ton of these things in metal projects. I dont think the thread gripping surface is deep enough for wood. I could be wrong, but I know they wont have a lot of biting surface when the wood is tapped.

I am with everyone else about getting the wings glued on. Did you save any of the pieces that you have cut out? You could use them to assist in clamping. How are you doing the carves? By the way, it looks really good so far.

Try putting it in the top horn, with a strat style jack. Thats the way the newer Rhoads V's come stock. I put the jack in this way for the 25th ani King V that I am building.

Some pics of the pitting would help a lot. I have the same setup, and have had no problems. I have the medium and fine compounds. I wet sand to 1200, then buff. Have you buffed through the finish, and the grain filler? just a thought.

tryed the cling film thing...didnt work.

but iv got most of the main paint off, just the sides and the undercoat stuff that im going to have to take off because iv gone too deep in other places. i was thinking of using a laquer to fill the slight dents and then sanding it flat so i have a perfectly flat surface for putting the sealer on and then the paint..will this work?

I would use bondo, A product used in car body, and finish repair. Can get it most anywhere, and it dries fast and hard, quickly.

Digitech does it too. I never really thought about it before this thread. I pulled the cover off, and powered it up. The top of the 12ax7's glow, but there is a helper led between the 2 tubes to get that full tube glow. This is a digitech 2120 preamp by the way.

okay thankyou for the tips

i might have a go at the heat gun method my im too scared of charring it :/

If it has a sealer on the wood like a charvel, it is thick, and chalky. Try not to gouge it too much, it will save you some time on filling later. You will have to use a metal scraper, I tried plastic to avoid gouging, but it melted it. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area.

i couldnt find any 50 grit paper to fit the palm sander i was using

and i tryed the paintstripping thing but that didnt work at all... it just dryed up on the surface without even touching the paint.

so do i just have to carry on and on and on with the sander?

i hate sanding

Polyester is a pain to remove. Heat is your best bet to get most of it off. Be careful if you use heat, follow the tutorial, The fumes can kill you. Also, just take it down to the sealer, not to the bare wood. This will save you a lot of time.

I only wanted to say that the guy only put the logo, it's ok that it's illegal, but he only put it for cosmethic.

I don't want to go offtopic on this thread, so i'm not going to right anything more.

"Yes officer, I know it's illegal, but I only did it for cosmetic reasons!" You're stupid if you think that's any kind of acceptable defense.

I'm seconding Perry's call for banning/deleting posts involving this kind of thing.

Yes, we all understand the legality of this issue. Now, he understands the legality of this issue. I really don't think he will be doing it again any time soon. I have been here for a year, and don't recall seeing this type of thing very often, so can we all just continue now.

It only has to happen ONCE, to upset someone (business) with lots and lots of money, and anger them enough to shut this place down (and take the admin team with it). I dont want to see that. Im sure you dont either.

I see where you are coming from, and I understand completely. And no, I do not ever want to see this forum go away. I have learned a lot from all of the regular posters, and you. We all contribute to help others learn. I think he has learned his lesson.

I only wanted to say that the guy only put the logo, it's ok that it's illegal, but he only put it for cosmethic.

I don't want to go offtopic on this thread, so i'm not going to right anything more.

"Yes officer, I know it's illegal, but I only did it for cosmetic reasons!" You're stupid if you think that's any kind of acceptable defense.

I'm seconding Perry's call for banning/deleting posts involving this kind of thing.

Yes, we all understand the legality of this issue. Now, he understands the legality of this issue. I really don't think he will be doing it again any time soon. I have been here for a year, and don't recall seeing this type of thing very often, so can we all just continue now.

Try the rear of the bottom point (back of the guitar using a Strat-style recess plate and socket) or my preferred placement of the back of the top horn about three or four inches from the crotch of the "V" if that is where you pop your rear strap button. Perfect to loop around for security!

+1 for the top horn mount for the strat style input. I put mine in the same place that Jackson does now. It took a really long drill bit and nerves of steel to hit the bridge pickup pocket, without hitting the Floyd Rose routing.

I have a couple questions about refinishing, hopefully you guys can help me out.

1. What guitars come with laquer on them new? Gibsons, Fenders, Kramers? Do they come with laquer? Or is more like, some companies use it and some dont? For what reason would you put laquer on, is it for a protection?

2. whats grit sandpaper should you use on a maple body right before putting on sealer?

3. What guitars use primer? I heard that older fenders dont? do most companies use it?

4. Once sealer is on do you have to use fine sandpaper on it? Once primer is on do you have to you fine sandpaper on it? Once paint is on do you have to use fine sandpaper on it?

thanks

Try this link It used to be pinned. It will give you a good place to start

J

Ok, I have seen the neck pics. Nice headstock, I would of made my own logo for something that looked that good. I know you didn't try to sell as a Jackson, sometimes people get the wrong impression.

Ok, I may be late, but I only see one picture. Does it have a Jackson logo on the neck? Is it in fact, a Jackson neck? Or a knock off? I put my logo on the neck of the first guitar I built. It wasn't a neck that I built, so doesn't that open a whole new can of worms? I would never try to scam anyone, I have built replacement bodies for Charvels, and Jacksons, but would sell it as a Jackson neck, with a replacement body. Do you know what I mean. I am not at the stage of selling the guitars that I build, but would like to talk about this. Not trying to start a heated debate.