brewu22

I dont care if he has a 1000 year contract. I DO NOT respect him as a musician! I think his guitarsound really really sucks.. My opinion.

What do you know about my talent???

Not tryin to start an argument or anything, but, Think a lot of guitar players guitar sound suck. But hey, to each their own. KK sounds a little different on every album. The guy has a special EMG set for gods sakes. Give the guy a little credit.

Are you going to use the tonepots? Soooo many players dont. Maybe you could drop them.

i have ordered the gain booster myself for my 81-85 set. Hope it sounds good, even tough i cant think of a more shitty sounding player than Kerry King.

you should not say such opinionated drivel.i can 100% garantee you don't have the talent kk does

how do i know?

answer me this..where is your 23 year recording contract?

by the way...reign in blood is regarded worldwide as the #1 thrash metal album of all time...what have you done lately?

all of that aside...odin makes one valid point...i never use the tone pot...just take it out and replace it with the booster

Cheers Wes

Don't worry....you don't deserve it...

Are those zachary guitars half as good as he claims them to be?

No, the demo video someone posted round here a while back was ridiculously bad, the thing wouldn't stay in tune, was laughable.

Most of his philosophies are ridiculous unscientific crap at best.

I was just pissed of reading all the crap he wrote on the site...and how if you're a doctor/lawyer you don't deserve his guitars...Or if you've got any physical disabilities....or if you don't prefer a tube amp.

Just watched some video of a guy playing pretty much the same thing for like 6 minutes...with some very crappy use of the trem

Wow I just checked out that site. That has to be the ugliest headstock I have ever seen. Not to mention the guy is a total ass. One of his ugly headstock guitars is not worthy of hanging on my wall. (let alone it wont hang). Or sitting in the street if front of my house. (I live on a highway). I have a disabilty,(kinda deaf from standing in front of my Marshall too much, not kidding) so what, I can play pretty good, and I wouldn't have one of those things if you paid me to take it. (Rant off)

Wow, I'm getting wore out just reading this thread. It's your dream, and your venture. More power to you. If it works for you, good. I can just say a lot of guys that responded to this thread speak the truth. I take most of what they tell me as thoughts well chosen, as for they know from doing. Me I am a novice still learning, and I take good advice when I can get it. I get a steady supply from this fourm. Good luck

J

do the current screws go through the truss rod?....I would guess not, so providing that you stick to those locations I can't see a problem.

My concern is that the threaded inserts are about 7/16" in diameter, which is significantly wider than the screws.

If you use the same center points as the wood screws, you should be ok. I am no expert, so you shuold wait for others that have actually built a neck. But I know a truss rod is not that wide..

Use Quickwood epoxy wood filler. Get it at HD.

Holy crap, what a mess. Bondo is the way to go. Where a dust mask when you sand. The stuff is pretty smelly when you are working with it, but it is better than wood filler.. Good luck.

J

ok well heres what im dealing with... whats the best way to do this

id really like to do this project and have it looking good, id hate to go buy a new body because i really love this guitar

Holy crap, what a mess. Bondo is the way to go. Where a dust mask when you sand. The stuff is pretty smelly when you are working with it, but it is better than wood filler.. Good luck.

J

Anyone know where I can find the font Jackson uses for their logo. My name is Jonathan, and I want to see what it would like with Jackson letters.

Thanks

J

The binding is glued to the side of the fretboard, the fret is glued to the fretboard, the fret itself, the crown any way sits on top of the binding.

Yes what you say is true but on a Gibson Les Paul, (at least a older mid 70's one) The binding starts out as high as the fret itself, then I assume the it is scraped down to the fretboard between the frets. So the binding at the frets becomes an extension of the fret itself. As for the right glue, I have no idea. As for other bound fretboards that I have seen, Nitefly SA you are right, the crown sits on top of the binding..

I've been looking around the forum and have not found reference to what I consider two important setup items. Maybe three.

1. I've seen reference to adjusting the bow, but with dangerous advice. How many broken truss rods occur because someone was tightening it... with the strings tuned? OK, you'll get away with it 99% of the time, but a broken truss rod or stripped allen hole aren't worth the odds. Loosen the strings, make an adjustment, then tune up again to measure. IMHO.

2. GREAT advice in an earlier post about adjusting the bow, using a capo on the first string to adjust the bridge height, then adjusting the bridge height, all before adjusting the nut height. But missing from this is adjusting the point of departure of the string from the nut. If the nut was filed by a hack, it may have the point of departure far enough off so that if the guitar is in tune with the strings open, it's noticably out of tune when fretted, especially on the first few frets. You'll never intonate the guitar properly until this is taken care of.

OK, 3. The sound of a string decays in apparent pitch during its sustain period. I suspect this is due to the decay of the higher harmonics to below the audible or measurable range. You can watch this happen on most tuners. If you want to tune accurately, you have to tune a string which JUST GOT STRUMMED. I've noticed less decay of apparent pitch when the string is strummed toward the middle of its length, but my solution has been to continually pick the string while I'm tuning it. You can't intonate or tune accurately unless you sample the note repeatably with respect to time since you picked it.

I see Where you are coming from, but, Perry has a lot to offer as a guitar building guide. He can offer some tried and true advise. He may sound a little harsh, but he is probably right. I am no expert, but I am sure he is.. Under thinking a task you will end up doing it wrong, over thinking a task, you will be sure to never get it right.

that head is so ugly.

It may look ugly to some people, but IMO, I think it looks awsome. I think I will try a white V with black dots, like Zakk is playing on tour right now. Or maybe one of each to hang on the wall beside each other.

Try this ebay auction number, 330026794930 or do a search on ebay for cocobolo. Hope it helps..

Just makes me laugh that people think they know how to build a guitar, and really know nothing. Not that I am a expert, but I have built a guitar that the intonation can be set correctly. Don't sound bad either

Asked this guy what scale the BC rich Bitch body was. His first responce said, "this is a body not a neck, scale means nothing on a body". Well I wrote him back and said it matters for bridge location. And this is his second responce..

Item: BC Rich Bich Body - Loaded just needs neck and TLC - NR (170021701884)

This message was sent while the listing was active.

lizard121368 is the seller.

All BC Rich guitars are 25.5 but you can still put any scale neck on this guitar. I have been building guitars for a long time and you can pretty much put any neck on any guitar as long as the pocket size is correct, it just changes the intonation setup after the build up.

Can you belive some people..

What do you guys think..

Fade the bevels. Full bevel on the bottom and around the corners, then fade out half way up the body. Lose the tone control and sink the volume into the body a bit. I really like the design.

I dont think theres anything you can to to make it shorter that won't involve you going through the clear.

What if I build the finish a little thicker in those areas? Maybe some CA. I just dont want to see the ledge that I am seeing.

I am in the clearcoat stage of my finish job. I noticed in a couple small spots where the binding is raised a few thousands above the guitar body. I know this doesn't sound like a lot, but with cream binding on a dark red mahogany stain, it stands out. Is their anything I can do besides scraping it flush. I really dont want to start over with the clear coat in that area. Thanks...

Jon

The raised area is on the side of the guitar, not the top or bottom..

What kind of lacquer paint are you using? I am no expert on this subject, but I just dyed a body, then used a water based urethane sanding sealer, then water base clear lacquer. I had no trouble at all. I know lacquer will soak into unsealed wood. Better wait for a expert on this subject. Sounds like a interesting finish job, like to see pics when you are done.

Here:

http://www.gibson.com/products/gibson/plant_tour/pt16.html

Not to get to far away from the original post but, why are the people in the Gibson factory spraying finish without a mask? I don't care what kind of finish it is, spraying all day with no mask is gonna lead to trouble.

Thinking out loud

It's not so much the color, but the weight really.

Really rotton spalt will be as light as balsa wood, superlight, ...does it feel like you're holding balsa wood in your hands?

It was was slightly heavier than another set of figured maple that I have. Just the light areas are kinda soft (like pine), The rest is nice and hard.

I didn't know spalted maple was a pain to work with. No worries . It is a 3/16 top, and I only paid 10 bucks for it on ebay. I would post a pic but having trouble remembering how to do that. Only a small portion of the spalt seems soft. It is vary light in color. Is that advanced rot, or the beginning of rot?

Thanks for the help

Spalted maple is maple that has started to rot. Some parts of the wood are very soft, to the point of falling apart. To harden it means, to make it return to it's original hardness, or close to it.

When should I harden the wood, before I cut and route, or after?

Thanks

Love the binding on the neck, wonderful job.

I hope I am posting this in the right place. I bought a .5 inch thick bookmatched tiger maple top. Both the boards looked nice. One day later, one of the boards twisted and warped, the other is still fine. Is there anything I can do to fix warped board?