George Brown

what i said about the electrolics in the power section of you amp may have been a bit over the top after giving it a bit more thought, does the standy-by light come on? this would indicate if the problem was in the main power section or in the amplification stage

im not an expert but this really seems like a more serious problem then tube failure as tube faliure is usualy more gradual, crafty you are right to sugest only changing power tubes but id suggest checking the ones already in place. when your amp is on do you see a dim glow comming from your tubes (this shouldnt look like stuff you see in ads in guitar mags there way to bright) if there is no glow change tubes. i think a capacitor may have gone, if so its probably electrolitic which means your power section (after the rectifier) need a look at. it is also posible that another component may have "blown" but i still recomend for a tech or someone with good electronic skills take a look at it

id presume that "200mW 200VDC" is thier rating

you can use either for your strat

switch position

1 magnetic p/u's

2 magnetic p/u's + piezo

3 piezo

knobs

magnetic p/u's volume

magnetic p/u's blend

piezo + magnetic blend (for position 2)

piezo volume

personal id have it like the gibson slash signiture but i would replace the mini toggle with a push/push pot because i like to have the ability to go from neck to bridge and a rotary pot isnt the most comforable way to do that for me. also the "inbetween" sounds may be great but try switching between them on a gig

do you hear any noice at all? if you cant even hear background hiss that the amp may usualy produce give it to a tech to check out, if you dont know what your doing with valve amps you can easily get worse than a small shock. if you can hear background hiss check the rest of your signal chain, start by removing any pedals and go direct to the amp, try this with al your cables. if this works with all your cables add your pedals one by one finding the one that may be causing the problem. if you stil have no sound either try another guitar going into your amp or the same guitar going into another amp to see if its the wirring in your guitar

ah i see now but it still looks to me as though you have two magnets, below is an interpretation of your digram with (if there is only ment to be) one magent with the south polarity in the centre

__

____l l ___

l l l l

l l l l

l l l l

N S S N

it would make more scence to me if it looked like

____l l ___

l l l l

l l l l

l l l l

N _ S

the p-90 is a single coil forgive me if im wrong but the arrangment on the left appears to have two coils . if the sound was too fat you could just change the eq but this doesnt appear to be a problem from what Godin SD said

in response to your question greg, you may often see the abreviation rw/rp when it comes to single coils, this means not only is the p/u reverse wound but also reverse polarity (the magnet that is)

wow you really seem to have found a niche in the market there,i think the trouble with it is that the tranmitter would have to send the signals on different frequencys but im not sure as im no expert in radio waves

ah the never ending uses of WD-40

id go with graphtec, apperantley they dont rely on pressure in the same way as normal pezio do, this is especialy important if your using a trem as when you push down the signal weakens but going up a string guage still woundlt do you any harm (to get a good sound from your pezio most people find they need to increase their string guage), the only problem with them appart from that thier black (its not that i dont like black but in most cases it doesnt look right if onbly they had a ferra glide style verion) is that you'll need to drill holes into the baseplate of your trem for the hook-up wires.

sorry if some of this was condecending i dont know how much you know about pezio

ps the graphtech instalation video is a laugh

when i first learnt stairway my guitar teacher told me that page used the pick and his fingers simulatiously, at first my picking hand felt odd using a regualar pick as well as my fingers but after practise its a lot easier than switching

thanks for the diagram, been thinking about it for a while but could never come up with a diagram, iv also heard those pots refered to as dual ganged pots so if your buying some you may want to check if there refered to as that

the s1 system simply chnages how the p/u's are wirred eg in series, the p/u used are the s/c noicless by fender there dual coil designed similar to that of kinams

its been around for a few years now, basicaly it make your strat sound like it has humbuckers, the affect of this is more tone based however, by that i mean it sounds like a humbucker but doesnt really increase the output level

yngwie malmsteen uses brass nuts but i think they have a bad rep in a guitar mag of mine they were talking about new guitar gadgets, they recalled how brass nuts used to sell in bucket loads because they increased sustain, however it was very much the opposite. having said that all metals have different sonorus properties, it would be intersting to see how this works out good luck with it

try looking here to see how the tone pots should be wired

as for how good they are thats really up to your own ears, but you may want to read this

i think the same thing as marksound, it was the eighties and although the eighties did produce some good music im not that big a fan of it and the same goes for the jem

never seen p/u's like that before, if you want information on wirring the guitar go here

here is the schematic you will need (ignore the SPDT switch its for a coil tap couldnt find a 2 humbucker 2vol 2tone and 3 way on their site), however your p/u selector appears to be rotary if it is a 5 position ratory selector you may need wirring like a PRS shown here or here

edit: my 100th post yay !

do you mean like a morley wah? as in when the pedal is moved it turns on rather than you having to push the pedal all the way down to press a switch?

if you mean like a morley check out there site they have schematics of all there stuff,

if you want a switch like on a dunlop i would recomend using a DPDT for true bypass

if you havent already i would recomned checking this site out, tonnes of great info

yes

id recomend

Neck; air norton

Middle; blue velvet

Bridge; tone zone

the are norton and tone zones should handle the heavier stuff well, whiltst the blue velvet by itself or mixed with the split humbuckers should be prety good on the clean side. ibanez j.customs use this set-up and they dont sound too bad , (admitantly there made from different woods)

thanks for the answers 4nkam and Nitefly SA

the second question was a bit silly i should have been paying more attention to the thread

some telecasters had or have steel baseplates on the bottom, some have used this mod to increase output but it also alters the tone, i belive it was to compensate for ice pick attack, typicaly you'll get a fatter sound

look foward to the pics

but i have some questions,

did you route the channel on the treble side and gently arch the fiber optics because if you did it on the bass side the angle the fiber optics would have to turn woulf affect the internal refration?

also did you have any problems with the truss rod pinching the fibre optics once you out everything back together?

try bending the contact inwards this can help conectivity between the jack and the tip of the cord, this usualy needs to be done on guitars once in a while as its part of general wear an tear, always loop the cord though the strap to minimize this