matttheguy

One picture per post, that's what the problem was.

No biggie, as long as you edit.

Well, I did the mortice, using the same jig that I used to put the neck angle on the body (here), and it came out with only a couple of minor mishaps:

Of course, right now it's cut shallow and 1/32nd short in width, but that's just for fitting purposes.

The left side of the mortice

The right side of the mortice. This picture has some lines drawn in to try to illustrate where the body came loose out of the clamps and the router jumped, but it will be filled and never seen again!

The headstock has been shaped

The neck and the body, almost ready to be one

Some other pictures can be seen at http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v295/mat...es%20Paul/?sc=6

Comments and criticism appreciated.

I could see Hendrix playing a guitar with that paint job... maybe not the shape.

I LOVE the paintjob, very very very nice. The horns, not my favorite, but the shape is still very nice.

I like!

I'd say go with the desert burst. It's probably your best bet to cover up those sand throughs effectively. The honey burst is alot lighter than it looks in that picture, at least the few I've seen.

And theitalianrob, it's a nice color, but doesn't address the problem at hand.

Nice collection, but man, I don't think this is in the right section, and you obviously didn't read the image rules. One pic per post.

I love it! The color, the carves, the inlays! I'd buy that guitar.

So, thegarehanman, do you use woodglue, epoxy, anything else? If I were to just wrap the rod with saran rap a few times, that should keep the glue away enough to keep the rod free moving?

Do you lubricate the rod first, too?

Thanks, it's alot of help. I'm just using this rod on my first neck to get the basic mechanics down.

Does the rod actually need to be wrapped in anything, or can it be encased in whatever glue I use?

What I'm getting at is, the rod will straighten out regardless of whether it's encased in glue or not. When it's tensioned, shouldn't it still counteract that and push upwards?

The fact that he was a "whack job" is a great misunderstanding of his ailments and condition. The man had mental diseases. LSD does not CAUSE these sort of ailments, but may help clarify them, or bring them to the surface. The fact that he went 'crazy' has more to do with how his brain worked than the drugs he did.

Plus, Syd Barrett was not an important man for just the music that he did. Sure, one could argue it wasn't Pink Floyd's best, and that Gilmour was the addition that helped propel the band, but in fact, that's just an oversimplified view on the matter. Syd Barrett is important and should be remembered for the great influence he had on the life and creative visions that he helped put in to these men's (especially Waters') minds.

To call him a "whack job", to me, is a great insult to the man.

I really cannot find alot of information to address these issues, so if someone could please help me out.

Perhaps if you're good with chisels, you could take it out like that after you steam off the fretboard....

But, you said it was pretty much unsalvageable? Just take a router to it, I'd say.

Thinking of that flame... The LP GT, I believe, has a flame graphic painted on it.

Well, as it turns out, it took over 2 weeks for HP to even get my camera, and they expect another few weeks for me to get it back!

Well, the show must go on, sadly without many new photos...

In the past few weeks I've began working on the neck extensively. I'm now installing the truss rod, which I have a thread about in another section with a few questions.

Someone mentioned how they liked the grain, so here's a picture I found that I had uploaded (somehow made it into my motorcycle folder!) with the top wet:

Whenever I get the chance, I'll use my sister's digital camera.

Other than those sandthroughs, which I'm sure you'll remedy with your finish, that guitar is absoloutely beautiful! I just hope when I get to that stage, mine is looking that good.

Alright, so, I'm installing the truss rod in my neck right now, Les Paul style.

I've already cut a channel into my neck: 3/16" wide, 1/2" deep at each end, curved to accomodate a 1/8" (5/8" deep) drop in the center and a 3/8" hole drilled at one end for the anchor.

Alright, not a big problem. It was actually quite fun routing that channel. Now, I'm going to but the rod in and I have a few questions.

Should I bend the rod before I put it in the channel, or will the fillet be sufficient to keep it curved?

When I put the fillet on top of the rod itself, how do I know if it's too tight, or can you not be too tight?

Also when installing the fillet, how do I keep the glue (epoxy??) from getting onto the rod itself.

Just for clarification, this is a Les Paul neck with a simple 3/16" truss rod.

Thank you very much!

Today I used a 36 grit fiber disk (similar to this) and it worked great......... on a scrap piece of wood. Next time I carve, I'm sure I'll use this first thing.

You have never heard of Swedish Fish?! You, sir, are missing out. I should send you one of boxes I just bought from Sam's Club, but they would probably get stuck exiting the US in thoughts that it might be a tool for terrorism.

Syd Barrett, although he had only modest success with the band itself, was a huge part of their success. As psw said, many of their greatest songs are derived from the fact that he did lose stability, and the impression that left on them.

When they were recording 'Wish You Were Here', Barrett visited the studio at the moment they began recording 'Shine on', and noone recognized him for awhile, and many of them broke down when the finally saw what he had become.

Syd Barrett, quite possibly, is one of the most influencial persons to have ever graced rock music.

I'm going to see Roger Waters in September, and I can sense now that he will make a point of honoring Syd.

That's exactly what I was thinking, WezV. With the bridge being lowered that much, it could, in theory, having the string pull go from the nut to the stopbar instead of the bridge!

I hope you did the math correctly and we're only worrying about something stupid, or else you'll have to go in there and recess where the stud pieces will go in for the stopbar, and risk messing up that already beautiful finish.

What if I want the board to be less than the neck, for a bound fretboard? How do I trim it then?

If this wern't a board that had been shaped or the fret slots cut, I'm sure I could just use a router to cut the binding channel, but what should I do in this case?

So where's that big announcement, Matt?!

Well, I havn't been able to take any pictures for awhile as my camera had been giving me an error, one which I though I could fix easily, but turned out to be much harder than expected.

So, until I get my cam fixed, all work has halted. I've been taking photos of everything up until it broke, and I don't want to stop now, so I had been progressing slowly, but now that the camera is sent away, it's stopped all together, only for 5 days!

Here's a picture of the body with the cavities routed. Now, anyone who has done an LP, does the control cavity really seem to be an amorphous shape, something that Gibson just cut out to fit everything in in a general way? Just curious, as on my plans, that's exactly what they are.

Finally, the image uploads!

What type of wireless? If you're on a relatively close network, G, or possibly B should work great, but if you own a castle, you could have some troubles up in the attic.

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/A-BINDINGS.html

That should be a decent start, although someone can probably go much more in depth than that.

Well, it really all depends on what model, what kind, et cetera. Linksys is known for making exceptionally good products at one point, but at the same time having terrible products in their line up.

Wired broadband routers (Non-wireless) from Linksys generally tend to be great products that last a long time. I've only heard minimal complaints about these, and it comes from a very technical aspect from some of my former dorm-mates (TCP forwarding problems), but of course, there may be those rogue systems that just wont work, as with any product.

Wireless routers from Linksys tend to be a little sketchy. I've only heard bad things about the wireless B routers, and conflicting reports on the plain G routers, but the G routers with Speedbooster all tend to stay connected on a constant stream and last a long time. The newer generation systems (N, SRX) are the same way, but who really wants to pay $150 for a router and $80 for a card to get a good connection if you don't live in the Mall of America.

Point being? If you stick to wired, you should be good, and if you go to wireless, stick to the G with Speedbooster or better if you want to last awhile.

Just my technical advice.