Stratmaster

Which fingerboard are you going to put with the metal body?

Hey welcome back, I've been gone for awhile myself.

This forum sure has grown alot

It's pretty easy to do if you have a nice clean work space, first remove the strings of course, then take out the screws that are holding the original pickguard onto the body off.

You will see 2 screws that stick up and both ends of the switch and also a screw at each end of the pickups on top, those hold the stuff on so don't remove them till you can lift the guard off the body.

Then it is just a matter of pulling the remaining 8 screws off, (watch out for the springs between the pickups and guard they will fall off) and moving the new guard into position and screwing the pickups and switch on to it. The springs go between the guard and pickup and the screws go through them.

Before you get started you might want to measure the height of the pickups where they are sticking up out of the old guard first so you can adjust them the same height on the new guard.

Wish I had the time to do that kinda stuff

Thanks for all of the answer's guy's. I've decided to give it a try after I pull the fret's.

I've been looking around and I seem to read that on a refret it is good to use a little glue but it isn't necessary on a fresh fret board is this correct and what kind of glue work's best?

What kind of tool did you use to shape the back of the neck?

I've been thinking about getting into doing an inlay on a fret board after reading the tutorial on inlays.

My question is how hard would it be to do it without removing the fret's?

Are you going to offer the forum members any special deals on them?

You can find a few pictures of it in Eddies Gallery like this one

Man thats some piece of wood!

If your going to apply gesso to the body for a primer your probably going to end up with different results than if you used a sanding sealer made for wood and then primed it with a standard primer.

As far as clearcoats go there is a product called Polycrylic made by Minwax that may be more suitable to the media your used to working with. Give it the appropriate dry time and it will turn hard as a rock. It's available in a spray can as well as a brush on product.

That is an interesting question, for the most part I have heard that Maple used as a base for the body will produce higher tone's but nobody's ever told me that about the neck.

Hey let me know what you guy's find out, I'm thinking about doing something to one of my Alder body Strat's just for the fun of it.

Awesome axe bro, I dig the shoe's too rock

I've seen a lot of players make a lot of different tuneage out of the same axe, it sounded like 6 different guitars to me.

I guess what I'm sayin is I hang out with a bunch of players and each one has his own style, one of the biggest factors in playin is of course your own fingers. You can hand the same guitar over and over to different people and keep it hooked up to the same rig, one guy might make it sound like SRV all bluesy n stuff while the next makes it sound like total crap.

As long as there setup proper I fell like the quality is nothing more than the details bein taken care of in the building. I'm tired of those people who think a $2500 Les Paul standard is the bomb. It ain't (IMHO)

I feel for you bro, I hate waitin on the computer shop to fix my stuff.

What's wrong with the arm thats on it?

Dude's I'm havin a hard enough time mastering all of the standard scales , what would be the advantage of screwing stuff up by adding something like that to a guitar?

I was just checking that out for when Brians Kits come in here's a Tele in Butterscotch.

Check your e-mail!