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De Trepagny

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Posts posted by De Trepagny

  1. I don't plan on angling the neck back for the bridge, but I will be cutting the neck down where it is on the body to make sure the bridge will be low enough. It's adjustable so I'll make sure to leave room for error so I can raise it or lower it as needed. Is that what you meant? Talking to Jason and my other guitar building buddy, they say my plan solves the problem, but other opinions?

    You can route a pocket to house the tune"o"matic bridge (à la Godin)

    100_0582.jpg

    It's clean and fully adjustable!

    Good luck!

    Philippe

  2. I have a question. I ordered a bridge like this one and need to measure where to put the bridge before routing the neck pocket. My question is where do I put the bridge? I'm using a 34" scale so do I measure 34" from the nut to the back of the bridge, the front of it, the saddles, or the mounting screws? Any advice would be appreciated since I want the intonation to be set properly. :D

    34" from the G string saddles. You should adjust the G string saddle about 75% of its travel towards the neck. This will leave you room to move the remaining saddles when setting the intonation.

    Nice top!

    Philippe

  3. Those look very good together, very Fodera-ish. You have every reason to be proud of that new body.

    BTW, what is that bridge on the old body? Looks sort of selfmade. And are you building another neck for that old body?

    Yes i realy like the emperor design. But for my next build, i'll try something little different. This was a selfmade rosewood bridge, with rosewood saddle. But i was tired of the way this bass sounded. A wood bridge is great but it darken the sound. I will probably screw the older body on my workshop's wall !

    Thanks guys!

    Philippe

  4. My last built is now completed. I'm pretty pround of this one, i realy like the way flamed makore look through danish oil coat. The bass have a clear and slicing sound despite the fact that it's wear passive P-U. I routed a battery pocket 'cause i want to put a EMG BTC control. I finaly didn't put the 3bands preamp... The humbucker can be switched serie/parallel via the mini-switch.

    100_0472.jpg

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    My fretted bubinga now have a fretless sister!

    Click to see some other pics.

    Philippe

  5. So did you buy this bench, or build it? I'm getting a lot of ideas for my future work bench from this build!

    I built it; 4X4" stud at each corner linked by 2X6" stud. the top is made from two poplar plywood glued together. Four sealer lacquer coat, and i wax it every month. So if glue drop fall on my table, it's easily remouvable. Voilà la recette! :D

    Thanks!

    See ya,

    Philippe

  6. looks great!! i love the grain of ur top do you have any close up pics of it?

    100_0464.jpg

    This is a naptha covered top from another build, but with the same wood. Looking sweet! I will experment with some dye to see what i can do with that stuff.

    Jon, i borrow the idea from a milling machine. I put 3/8"-16 T-nuts a the back of my bench, extended the bolt with the plastic knob. You can't move the piece on the table with two clamp tited! It's great and cheap :D

    Thanks!

    Philippe

  7. I like the way yours is going.A Tele with a TOM very cool.You have the nicest and cleanest bench I have ever seen.Please never invite me and my skilsaw over.Your router isn't even dusty.Mine is encrusted

    This was my last bench so there is not luxury here!

    100_0090-1.jpg

    Do you have some idea for the F-hole? I want to do something different... something like this

    Thanks!

    Philippe

  8. I'm making a new body for my fretless basse. I was not satisfied with the sound and the shape of this one (my first complete build)

    100_0456.jpg

    So the new body is made from a boockmatched flammed makore top/ IPE veener / African mahogany body. The hardware will be black. The bridge is an ALL Parts, EMG HZ pick-up: J at the neck and humbucker at the bridge. active 3-bands EQ that i keep from a job that i've done for a friend. I'm realy exited and impatient to hear the sound 'cause this is the first time i use this P-u configuration. I will probably put an epoxy coat on the fretboard. I want a sharp and edgy fretless sound.

    th_100_0457.jpg

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    Flammed makore is a realy scary thing to work. It chip realy easily but i felt in love with this board!

    Philippe

  9. This is my new build; It's a semi-hollow telecaster with a gibson type neck

    100_0446.jpg

    The spec:

    neck:

    scale: 24 3/4"

    fingerboard: ebony

    neck: quatersaw african mahogany set neck

    headstock: .125" cocobolo top with a ash veener

    fret: medium

    trussrod: stemac dual action

    Body:

    back:quatersaw african mahogany

    Top: flamed makore w/ ash veener

    Hardware:

    BlackTune"O"matic bridge

    Black wilkinson tuning keys

    Duncan '59 humbucker

    th_100_0445.jpg

    th_100_0448.jpg

    th_100_0451.jpg

    more pics soon!

    Philippe

  10. I'm planning my next build and i'm asking which option will be the best. 35" scale or string through body? I know that both option combined will be the best but extra long scale are hard to find here (special order only) I belive that both ways will give me the same string tension but i want to know your opinion. Oh, it gona be a 6 strings bass.

    thanks!

    Philippe

  11. I really like the look of Bubinga(the natural color). The fact that you can find such amazing figure in this wood is icing on the cake. That is some really cool wood you have there. :D

    That type of figure generally increases the bd. ft. price by about 2.5X reg. retail. The stronger quilted figures can increase the value by about 5X reg. retail. Regular retail is close to $10 for Bubinga.

    Peace,Rich

    I paid mine 8$ board ft can. The dealer told me that it was standard to find figured bubinga :D

    Philippe

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