spazzyone

its not the SD's the jb is a "hot" pickup

id say its your pots as the SD's are recomended with 500k's

wich will open them up a bit more and give a little more top end

side to side would be no more natural than up and down. Also, my experience is that you get a sustain tone that is plenty loud enough long before the string vibration has as much of an impact on action as other factors such as driver construction and mounting, magnetic pull etc...

However, I would be interested in hearing if there was any tonal difference between up'n'down and side-to-side.

i have run an obscene amount of power into my rail and had no fret buzz

and its in an ibanez with very low action

so i totaly agree that the right driver does not have this up/down affect with enough power to sustain the strings very well.

( remember i first tried 100 volts then 25 watts@ 8 ohm's fully cranked )

and not a buzz to be had. surely this has to be do to the fact its a humbucker driver

and im also pretty sure its also the "rail" design as well

if i understand what your saying you should not have a problem

i assume it does not affect the nut?

I've been also thinking about offboard sustainer, but I doubt that one could make it with single cable. Sustainer level is much greater than guitar level, there will be nose, squeal and whatnot. One solution could be using two cables, but then it's ugly. It would be cool enough to have external power supply. I wish I didn't cut my stereo cable into smaller patch cables

Even having batter outside is a success. Using short stereo jumper cable and small battery box attached to guitar strap (like wireless system). Jumper would go from guitar jack to strap box (it goes above strap anyway so it won't be visible). It's the same thing just you don't need long stereo cable. On the other hand you need lots of batteries, so in the long run it's better to go with floor based unit

Cheers

i do not have this problem and i'm using shitty speaker cable for my driver and outboard amplification

here is a pic of the mess that is my signal path

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf.../Picture009.jpg

and in my sound post the recording was done sitting in front of the computer moiter while it was turned on

Pete knows my setup and is the only one who understands why i favor the outboard route

but sadly i have no time to persue my deisign at the moment as im building guitars 10 hours a day

so its safe to say when i come home the last thing i want to do is fiddle with more guitars

try sanding some of it to get the dust

fill the crack with C.A utill its filled close to the surface then pack the dust in the crack

then C.A it again and let it "Wick" in repeat as needed til filled the sand smooth

this may not be the best solution but it should work well

if you live in a dry winter climate wait till late winter and you will get better results

as the crack should be fully open when you fill it

i used to use ipe for the deckboards on dock's ( for rich people lol)when i lived in south Florida

very heavy and very dense but not as bad as say cocobolo

and its open grained so it would need to be filled for a finish

never tried on a guitar but it does have a good tap tone

Chris is very Correct and fryovanni's Correct and Drak you are Correct

i want to see if i can build somthing that everyone would want but can't/won't build

for various reasons. you will be helping me realize my potetional. By pulling it off

as far as wasting a top that wont happen. i will not take a bad design and make it gold

but will take a good suggestion and implement it if it is worth it. im looking for a collective

to make somthing unique like the sustainer project. only the guitar itself

Godin sd i love your last build but its not for me

Drak i have been spending two hours a day trying to get the magma colors (not the overall finish)

as i think that would make this figure jump out hard

F holes only on a tele delux style but the Eagle holds potentional

but my mind keeps thinking the fernandes revele. how can we make it better?

i must restate i cannot draw and cad programs dont work with my mind

cut/copy/paste is the same as a rebuild of a "normal" guitar

so why not build a mary jane? No Fun

i want to stretch it a bit

remeber this......... binding alone can change an appearance

but so can you mind?

first of all let me state this is not my first ring around the rosie

i am more than capable of a high quality build in this time frame ( the finish is my time limiter)

but i cant draw at all. every drawing i have tried looks like poop

this is why i ask for the suggestions and posted the "other" catagory

I thought this idea might be neat.....you decide what this Maple top should be

a Tele? a Strat? a PRS? a Paul?

maybe the top for neck thru built form someones grandmoms wooden leg?

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=25820

what gets picked i will then submit as a Guitar of the month project within the next 3 months

if you have your own idea post a pick/drawing as other

and at three monthes think "finish" cure time . the backwood is also a factor as you Pick One

the neck is already spoken for as far as wood go's (unless i see better than what i have)

if the winning catagory is "other" maybe ill pick the winning shape from that catagorey

Natural

great sound clip

now i said this about col. but your a David Gilmour fan? but anyway it was very tastey sounding

now when this http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...fan/ouch008.jpg

heals i'll finnish a song i started that was written around the sustainer

as is my rg its routed clean thru to the neck pickup cavity

i would just like to say this thread has been amazing

just the fact that nobody seems to be holding back on their discoveries

and the sharing that has taken place is something to take pride in

from sharing ideas to materials just blows me away. this is truly a "collective" experiment

i just want to say thanks to all those nonselfish members that contribute to this thread

as this would not take place in many other forums. im sure fernandes and sustainiac are biteing their

nails about now. Pete what did you do

spazzy

yes but the color code will be differant

well it is dried dead flat and as good as it looks

as far as resawing i have a good job now "hint hint"

and all the required equipment to handle any build (a full shop)

including a 24" thickness sander,a jointer,planer, 18"bandsaw,CNC machine

yeah im ok now and in very good hands

once thanks too all.

Rich,erikbojerik,Drak and Chris

now if i could only get drak to do my finnish i would be in heaven "magma attack"

P.S what shall i make with it a Strat,Tele,LP,PRS

suggestions anyone? i cant draw so original is out the window

yes im exsesive with soldering and heat shrink but i leave nothing to chance

plus it looks like i know what im doing

i have bought a few of these. god only knows where tey are made but they are made well

they are even copper sheilded and if you search his items youll find white,black and zebra

with black or chrome rails they are actualy very good sounding pickups with good power 14K

and hell swing a deal with you on three. these are what ive been using as my sustainer

and they work great for that too. here is the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/Guitar-Parts-MINI-RAIL...1QQcmdZViewItem

This post shows why i value Setch's opinions the most on this site

and also shows why he is a mod on this board

The 2 lines here were unneccesary to prove your point, so I deleted them! Everyone is entittled to thier opinion! And not all see everything the same way! I think that Setch can defend his point by himself and don't need your help!!!

i know what i have seen shows his excelent skills and knoledge

and he has helped me with a few questions that i was lost on and helped show me the way

for that and his info on this post i thank you Setch. you are truly a great asset to this site

and i also now know who to avoid for info in the future

P.S DiezelMonster looks like your on the right track to a very nice finnished project

and for $400 plus the cost of the new neck buit to your specs seems like a steal

Dime must be looking down on ya

first to answer fryovanni

my neck is quater sawn maple with a ebony board not like my buddies cocobolo/kingwood combo

and by "tap Test" the only way i can describe it is when i knock on my neck it kinda has a thud

my buddies on the other hand almost dings like a bell and it just resonates like mad

so no its not a fair comparison being differant woods but its that resonation that makes me drool

and how does that make me feel? jelous as hell as i cant afford what he has

and as far as the bottle opening

its the differance between a can of beer and a fifty yer old bottle of scotch

Perry was that ha.ha.ha at me or my great marketing comment? ha.ha

and Drak what i mean by blow them away is the attention to detail

from the two example's i have seen there is a big differance in the qualitity and detail

im not unhappy with my neck by anymeans. i just know were i would by my next one from

but i wont be buying anything but bridges/tuners and electronics in the future as ill build my own

and +1 to Doug after all what you want and you get it that way is the bottom line

and im just stating my own opinion not trying to sway your own. after all your own happiness is what matters most

they blow away Warmoth

better than 70% of any other mass neck builder out there I would guestimate.

you said it exactly massed produced which is warmoth with great marketing

chances are what your order from them is sitting on a shelf just waiting on your call

hardley custom built

jamerson on the other hand wont build till you order and its built to your order

not on a shelf just waiting for a home

ive had warmoth in the past but it does not compare to my buddies cocobolo neck with a kingwood board

that with just a tap test and makes me drool and the quality smoked warmoth hands down

this is not a cheap option and its based in the U.S

but they blow away Warmoth and will build just about anything

im not sure of a 25" scale or tilt headstock though

but here is a link

http://jamersonguitars.secure-shops20.com/index.html

just E-mail them

not cheap but awsome quality

http://jamersonguitars.secure-shops20.com/...nly_p_3-36.html

as Pete pointed out and it's still my goal is to have this the electronics outboard

its much more modular this way

think about it

one driver circut and a driver in each guitar. then you can just change on the fly

no control room issues. if you read one of my previous posts you'll see my layout

im not saying its the best solution but it is a good one

and its definetly cheaper as you only make one circut assembly

and once thats perfected all attention can be focused on the driver

does it have to be a U.K luthier?

i get my copper on ebay

12"x12" sheets for like 5 bucks and cut each peice with an overlap

and i also ca the edges and fully solder all the joints not just spot soldering!

this is the best sheild you can get bar none

here is a pic of the same guitar but the control cavity

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...tar/rich001.jpg

note the heat shrink. those lose wires are a pickup i was messing with

its now complete