spazzyone

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Routing_..._Templates.html

boy that was hard!!!!!!!!!!!!

Leave it as is. just file the pickup ring or pick guard to fit it

the case is a shield. in fact the best shield available

and just solder some extensions on and heat shrink them

trust me on this. i had the same problem with the one i had

and while i was able to make it work i would not recommend it

the case is filled with epoxy making it extremely difficult to get to the solder points

which are very short and small gauge leads that can break very easily

whats with only one nob?

thats how Lynch's set up is. a push pull

down=bridge up=neck i use the same setup

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/schem...s/gl_style.html

but i use a jb in the bridge and quater pounder in the neck

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf...tarstuff006.jpg

and my pic sucks as you cant see the flame in the neck

that epoxy is correct

but it can be done (i've done it)

that is one bad pickup i bought an xl500 and hated it

but those old ones were great

Dude you have to thing that you can buy these new from a

store such as Warmoth for the same price

and if there is any issues you know they will be dealt with

i would lower my price or try fleabay

i guess you have never read my profile

just read my interests

always assemble first or face the nightmares later

and bushings i leave in and tape them

never used ferrules but I'm sure id remove them first

Dear Rhoads56,

Unfortunately, your attempt at advice was of little help. Thankfully, many of the subsequent responders were very helpful. You might reflect on just why you post on this site. Is it to help others, or to make yourself feel superior to others?

i disagree his advice was very accurate

and Perry loves to feel superior. therefore his post

the grain is not as strong as this but its my guess

madagascar rosewood

scroll down to the 2nd grade pics

http://www.alliedlutherie.com/other_fingerboards.htm

Get'em Setch

its only fair to credit the author

Wes is right

i have JB's in all my guitars

one is maple body 1 peice maple bolt on neck another is all mahogany set neck

and a korina neck thru. all have Floyds and recorded i dont realy here a differance but live i do

and i have hearing that picks up every thing up to a mouse fart in china but i cant tell them apart on a recording tape or digital

Nick you lose

Chris certainly can handle inlays other than "dots"

not to mention he is a realy nice and helpfull guy

here is the kisekae one not sure if this is the one you want

but it sounds like it

http://www.nymphusa.com/kisekae/kisekaeE1.asp

for all that responded how smoking weed kills people how about this

more babies die in a year from abortion than weed could kill in a century

P.S my avatar is not stoned just a little hot

try the search function for carve tops

and this one is not hard to find anyway

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16098

correct

the stripe has no real use on a slab board neck

unless liko is correct

and Eric they were originally koa

http://www.guitarbuild.com/modules/mydownloads/

they also have CAD software you can download to open the file

This is done so there's a more solid connection between fretboard and neck, which increases physical strength, creates a more solid tone and allows the neck to adjust for relief more easily.

What!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

but do yourself a favor and look at the new marshall head...

http://www.marshallamps.com/product.asp?productCode=JVM410

it looks promising.

thats what im selling a 2203 plus saving my pennies for

have not played one yet (dont go out much) but i know my tone is in there somewhere

Thats opinion

But a very smart one

Ive worked with proplayers who wont play on any strings unless theve had this done

They can afford the gear to waste (though in my 26yrs in and around guitars i don't recall one pro doing this. But i could be wrong

depending on the brand and gauge of strings it can make them last longer (filling the tiny gaps in between the winds on the covered strings stops finger grease and crap from getting in there and corroding them!)

they may help strings last longer just suck their tone sooner (alas a dead string)

the wax is no more than crud itself not to mention it will act as a crud catcher

But then at the same time it means down sides such as no pinch harmonics, etc

which means dead toneless strings

dude I'm not trying to cut you down its that its just bad advice especially to kids that dont have money to buy strings or replace their guitars when the fingerboard gets all crammed with wax that won't come out. and sucks the tone right of of their pride and joys

as for the cleaner i have not seen it in a while but i dont go out to the stores either

but home depot carries Blitz metal cleaner and thats all the string cleaner is

As a last resort you could use wax on the strings. Use a candle and rub it up and down the full length of your strings a few times then blow the lose crap of and play. This helps yoru strings last longer aswell.

thats a horrible thing to do to your strings

not to mention the fingerboard if its unfinished

I read somewhere that if you put a coat of ArmorAll on the wood before you finish it that it will retain it's color... Also, I have no problem with refinishing once or twice a year... maybe even once a month if really necessary...

armour all is a sure bet to ruin your guitars

all dual action rods are welded

so i assume thats what you have but you can get a dual with a spoke if you want it

ive never seen either in white if that helps

about 15mm