Melvyn Hiscock

ah hahahaha, gotta love how Melvyn's a "newbie"!

Chris

Of course I am a 'Newbie"

I have only been doing this for thirty years.

There is still a lot to learn.

Any veneer will work, as long as it doesn't have any adhesive on it. Try Rockler.com.

Veneer is pretty easy to use. It is also pretty easy to get out if you decide to put frets back into you bass. Don't worry about the camber, you are only sanding the veneer down to the surface of the fingerboard that si already there. Sand ALONG the board until the inlays are flush and then use lighter grade paper to finish the board off.

It is not difficult.

Do no, ever, use chisels and screwdrivers to get frets out. Spend the extra on a proper pair of end nippers as that is cheaper than replacing your fingerboard.

I have seen some really bad fret jobs. Please don't do another. It is cheaper to get the tools and do it properly.

So I posted on the Here but no luck..

nobody ever goes there.. so better luck here, hopefully

I know 5way 4pole switch they drew on that topic and the schematic works for 4-conductor wires

I'm not a complete noob. but I can't understand anything, basically, other than the standard wirings. (So I am still a noobie)

So please be patient

So I want the positions to be...

Bridge humbucker

Inner coils in parallel

Outer coils in series

Outer coils in parallel

Neck humbucker

And I have 4-Pole Double Wafer 5-Way SuperSwitch Switch from UniversalJems (scroll down, the last one of the toggle switchs list)

My pickups have 5 wires each. They're Bill Lawrence 500s pickups

It says...

white = postivie (hot) lead

black = negative lead to ground

blue = [it says to solder it to ground]

red & green -> it says for standard wiring solder together and insulate

for split coil wiring, solder the combined red & green wires to one of the treminals of an on-off switch & connect the other terminal to ground

where would I solder these to the 5 way 4 pole lever switch?

I was asking Robert_the_damned about his Diagram..

I waswondering for that schematic, did he draw it like that because drawing it all on one switch would be too hectic?

Or does one of them refer to the "top" side of the switch and the other, "bottom" side?

Also, where are the pots and capacitor(s)?

I checked these out from SeymourDuncan: PRS mod1, PRS mod2

But I think they're all refering to the Rotary switch.. which isn't what I'm talking about now?

I need this So please help!

Q.Q

This is the sort of thing that guitar parts suppliers have designed just to send people mad!

Firstly, you ARE dealing with a rotary switch, just one that is tuned on its side, that is what these switches are.

I have one in may fave Tele which is Bridge, Neck and bridge in parallel, neck and bridge in series (great on a Tele), neck and bridge in series out of phase and neck.

Working this out made my brain very sore. I have another requirement at the moment similar to yours but somehow every time I sit down to think about this something esle crops up, like needing to watch some paint dry or wanting to learn how to make origami guitar bodies or, mmmm, just something.

If I can concentrate long enough (not likely) I will have a go and try to work this one out.

My plan is for Bridge,

Outer coils in series

both humbuckers in series out of phase

One coil of bridge and both neck in series

Neck humbucking

but then, tomorrow night I have a first rehearsal for a gig in a few weeks and I will probably just plug a P90 into a valve amp and use that all night!

You could have one of the coils of the pickup broken... Then it could work as a single-coil (in position 2-3-4 sometimes, depends on the guitar) but not as a series humbucker...

It is not that common that windings in both coils get broken but a broken winding in a single coil can often leave you with a thin sound. the point is that the continutity through the pickup as a whole is broken. If you coil tapped this pickup you have a 50% chance of it working in one position, but only if the break in the coil is on the coil 'nearest' to the earth connection.

Hello All,

I recently installed 2 Dimarzio pickups in a guitar that I built. With this project being my first, I didn't have the wiring right. I was getting a sound in all 5 positions but the sound was weak. I did some further modification of the wiring I had done and later all I could get was a sound in positions 1-4, but not the full series humbucker sound of position 5. I took it into a music store (which I am still waiting after a week) and the guy says he's not getting any continuity in the pickup. How could this be? How could I possibly get a sound in positions 3 and 4 if the pickup was bad? He says maybe the lead wires are damaged. I am very frustrated and confused. He still hasn't gotten around to the guitar and lied about when it would be ready. This is a joke! Whatever happened to reliability?

So, is it possible I damaged the pickup by electric shock or anything of that nature? And how do I check for continuity in a pickup? Any help or insight into this situation would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Glen

It sounds like a busted pickup. It is common that you will get some sound but very weak. A winding in the pickup is broken or a wire has come loose. With Di Marzios having no covers they are open to damage. Check the bobbins and see if there is any damage. It might be worth getting it rewound but it is most likely time to get a new pickup.

Melvyn Hiscock

I looked around everywhere and can't find anything on how to do this.I want to use one switch for both pickups to change them to single coil mode.The pickups have independent volume controls,but no tone controls.It seems like a DPDT would work,since it really is two SPDT switches in one.Can somebody direct me to a good link or explain what each lug would connect to/from in this wiring setup? Thanks in advance!

It is very simple.

The DPDT switch is simply two SPDT switches side by side so each half taps one pickup. take the tap wire of one pickup to the centre tag on one side of the switch. Take the other to the other side. Work out which way you want your switch to operate and join the two lugs on that end of the switch to an earth (ground) connection.

That will tap both pickups.

Melvyn Hiscock

So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter.

I should have the carve shaped within the next few days.

You'll find that a well sharpened scraper will be worth it's weight in P90s whe you come to finish the carving.

There are a few tutorials on sharpening scrapers around and they are worth looking at. Oval scapers are excellent when carving maple.

Be prepared for quite a bit of sanding too . . .

Hey! Look who the sawdust bunnies dragged in...

Good to see you here!

(also, I sent you some email yonks ago. Didya get it?)

Mattia

I got some of the email, thanks. When are you coming over?

Yup, indeed the sawdust bunnies did indeed drag me in.

Sawdust bunnies, like Playboy bunnies only . . .dustier .

Your book and Setch's blog have helped immensely so far.

Good, that is why I wrote it, all those long nights huddled over a quill by the light of the oil lamp, the dinosaurs crashing around outside

(feeling old, the first edition was 20 years old last month!)

So, I adjusted the blade on the spokeshave. It seems to have been set to cut too deep, and it wanted to skip right over the wood. Now when I go over that maple, it's like cutting through butter.

I should have the carve shaped within the next few days.

You'll find that a well sharpened scraper will be worth it's weight in P90s whe you come to finish the carving.

There are a few tutorials on sharpening scrapers around and they are worth looking at. Oval scapers are excellent when carving maple.

Be prepared for quite a bit of sanding too . . .