johntbyrne

I bet you are right. I bet the description is based on a translation so it is not exactly right.

Looked at pic again. Looks like router will hit top bar on right side limiting how far it will travel to the right. Looks like you may loose an inch or two. If you loose only one and allowing 1/2" to left and right of wood block this limits width of body to 13.5". May work but is close. If router limitation is 2" it will be close, maybe too close. Agree, a call may be in order but I suspect they can't tell you much since they don't know what router you will put on it. A small diameter router would be better I would think.

Interesting.

"Precision woodcarving replicating machine makes expert copies up to 29'' x 29'' in size. Reproduces surfaces with three dimensional carvings by using any popular router (not included). Ideal for sign making.

Overall dimensions: 31-3/4''W x 31-1/4''L x 17-1/2''H "

Now wait, it is only 31" by 31" but can make a copy 29" by 29" ??? 29" times 2 = 58". ???? something not right here unless it scales up and that wouldn't be as accurate. I suspect

Any place that does interior work for cars will have thin CF like material for laminating on dashes and such. It's not really carbon fiber usually but you can't tell by looking at it. It could be used like the acrylic inlay tutorial where you just lay the sticker under the acrylic and use clear glue. No sand throughs or toxins at all. Check on ebay, there's a number of dealers that sell it in self adhesive sheets for little money. Also go to any custom auto stores, they usually have it, especially the ones for making rice-rockets.

Actually the dash stuff from aerospace is real CF. I use it (in my laminates) for making CF frames for my R/C helicopters. I'm not sure how it would sand however, suspect not too good.

Try these guys for a source.

http://www.acp-composites.com/

Suspect they can't advise about inlays but can about just about anything else. They sell a paper thin CF sheet designed for dashboard laminates. I've thought it would be cool to veneer a top with it. I have some and laminate it for strenght/thickness with CA glue. Neat stuff. Ordered from them several times for my model helicopter adiction. Good folks.

Your choice of course by my opinion is that there is good wood out there if you look around so make each guitar unique. Thus, one guitar and make it killer and design the guitar with "that" wood in mind. I don't know, using similar wood on several guitars sounds too much like a factory to me and less unique. But unique is what turns me on so..... Just my 2 cents which as usual isn't worth much.

Cheers

John

As always, thank you Brian!

Same question as GuitarMaestro

Also, is there such a thing a quilted rock maple and if so why couldn't it be used?

Interesting points. I too have a similar neck board. Flame and was "billed" as rock hard maple. I don't know if it is east or west but I can tell you I can not put a mark in it using my fingernail.

In my case it will be laminated with a center walnut 1/2" wide board. All will be quarter sawn. Was going to use carbon rods, opinions?

Thanks

John

BTW, don't know if this means anything but flame looks different that my other boards. The flame is wider and not as defined as the soft maple top deck board I have. It is also not as straight. Does this mean anything?

See the HT10 is back in stock. How did the new company making them work out? Quality same? Also, are the tuners still "good enough" in this kit as we have discussed before?

Thanks in advance

John

After having more than 2 minutes to think about it (at work) this wasn't difficult at all. Here goes

25 1/2" scale, 10" radius nut, flat bridge. Using nut sting spread 1 3/8" and bridge strin spread of 2 3/32" you need .... drum roll ... right at 26.3" radius at 22nd fret to get flat at bridge. Sorry for wrong first answer. What I get for not thinking a problem through enough.

Cheers

John

errr, that one is difficult.

Problem is flat mean infinite radius and this doesn't work in a graphical solution. I'm at work and don't have time to figure this out for real but I did a check with very large radius nuts (4000 and 8000 inch). I got two drastically different answers for 22nd fret but both were in the thousands of inches. I think its safe to say you still almost flat at the 22nd fret.

Let me think about this one some more. Problem is going to be that the shape of the fretboard has a drastic impact on answer I think but still I think we are going to see that we are basically still flat. I'll think about it and get back to ya.

I can tell you that the closests guess we had was 15" (grin). I didn't guess.

Cheers

John

Darn engineer in me ....

-3.6" radius at bridge. Not stop making me laugh.

John

Oh btw, having a large radius at the bridge would be a good thing I think since it allows the bridge to be set "flatter". Thing I wonder about is how you could set the bridge for one of those high radius necks like 9" jobs. Funny how you never think/notice these things till you start to understand and build them LOL.

Just for laughs I jumped into AutoCad (easier than math in this case) and found size for radius of bridge as asked.

Assume, 25 1/2" scale, 10" at nut, and 16" at 18.75" from nut this results in about 18.16" radius at bridge. Of course since the bridge for each string is at a different distance from nut this isn't really a true number but gives you an idea, again just for laughs.

Cheers

John

New developments. Please hang tight and I'll get back to ya. I suspect you can open a dxf without problems. Do you have a table belt sander? If so how long is the belt?

Thanks very much!

LMII has a good deal for all colors in a set. I'm going to go ahead and get that. Plan is to use the scrap wook cut away from the top. This one has a 7/8" carved flame maple top and board is somewhat wider and longer so I'll have scrap. I got some 1x2 maple boards with flame at Homedepot but the flames won't let much soak in. Strange, can't use this to test I guess.

Ok then, thanks again for the advice. I'll follow everything. No more excuses, time to really get going and finish this darn thing.

Cheers

John

Does this mean no one has used the LMII water based dye? So what do you use and how do you like it? I need a good yellow/amber dye and a good brown for making the tigerseye.

Thanks

John

Can you see AutoCad DWG files? If not what type can you see? I'll cross my fingers that my 2 year old will let me on the computer at home tonight and shoot a copy to ya.

Decided to finish radius jig design and test. Stay tuned.

Jig idea being finalized. Will then build. Stay tuned.

Anyone have experience good or bad with the LMII wate based dyes? Was set to order from reranch but then saw prices at LMII. I don't mind paying more if its better but if you believe LMII they say they have researched and found these to be the most vivid of all dyes they have tried.

Keep in mind I'm going to try the tigerseye as described in another thread. Should I go with this or something else?

Thanks once again

JOhn

Downloaded but got errors when I try to open via AutoCad. Unzipped ok, any ideas? Using AutoCad 2004 LT (same as 2004 but without 3d stuff).

Here in Mississippi we can get pine for cheap but other woods are much more expensive. I can't find alder anywhere around here, even at our "local" hardwood store. They have everything except alder or swamp ash .... grrr.

Idea of using pine for testing is interesting I'll admit and have not thought about it. May give it a try.

Thank you very much,

I looked at web site, very nice work! I've been once again humbled by the master. It will be a little while before I get to this point but will CERTAINLY let you know how it turns out.

Ace, check out the avatar (or what ever that little pic on the left of the post looks like) .... BIG GRIN

Hey, thanks VERY much. You know, this seem logical and very easy. Any further suggestions for water/alcohol based dye for this application?

BTW, found one site that said to mix light color first with some lacquer and spray on, this will seal and dye to non-curl while allowing you to then dye the curl with second coat. Sounds too difficult to get right, and maybe even requiring luck. I like this way MUUUCCCHHH better.

Thank you VERY much

Cheers

JOhn