low end fuzz

so what do you guys use?

i was keeping my eye out for very thin grounding wire; but even then its color is far from the brass i got,

i was gonna try thick gold safety pins but when i cut off the ends they were silver inside;

my old freind use to use hollow copper tube which looked like lil o's down the fb; i want something solid, but still want it gold;

any brass dowels ive seen are just to thick; but i have only searched hardware stores and wal-mart

cool pics and a lil educating!

purpleheart make great necks; the problem is carving them; a cnc or shaper would be nice to get the shape and straightness; but molding it with rasps and files is a b!+(#;

it reminds me of old prisoners busting up limestone

practice makes perfect!

you mentioned that you left more on the neck until after the fb is on;

do yourself a favour and put on the fb before you shape the neck. its a lot easier to put clamps on flat surfaces;

you should practice another one with a pine finger baord, and then give it a sweet paint job and like do the fb black and you could have a great present for someones wall!

you cant never go wrong with givin yourself 8 in. of headstock space fort any build!

cool idea?; i dont like it personnally, but what ev

does the action set itself too?

are the suggested strings flatwound so they dont eat into the board when the frets are down?

wouldnt the intonation be off after the frets were raised? although i guess if you set the int. for the frets it wouldnt matter for the fretless?

what happens when they need to be dressed?

they explain nothing on their site (that i found) and it seems like an idea that i hope dosent take off;

i cant beleive this is going on in my backyard

eww

+1 GOTM

that could work; on pitch blk gabon i use the dust and epoxy and add blk xerox powder, it gives it the polished shine along with the rich dark

does 'veneer softner' exist because its better than steam?, or does it not raise the grain?, or maybe dosent interfere with glue?

i seen it for the first time on the weekend and took it as a scam; id have no use for it personnally, but the more i think about it the more im intriged;

i think i'll look it up

OK, don't be surprised if Tom Arnold comes banging on your door demanding his chunk of mahogany.

too good

oh its quartered; and old;

the one im keeping for bodies is dressed and has some figuring; i dont know if the other is going to be the same; but the end grain looks as straight as ive ever seen;

but i refuse to use mahog necks; this site isnt interested in philosophies, just what others have done >jab< j/k

and no matter how 'easy' something is to work with , its not worth the tiniest effort if your not happy with it

even the most wasteful person could get 4 one piecers out of it;

so no one could guess at why there is T.A. mahog written on it?

thanx

i found some mahogony the other day at a place i shop for wood; this guy dosent deal with mahogany but brought this in for someone who paid for it and dissapeared; it was so long ago he couldnt even tell me where he got it. written on the top of the one slab is T.A. Mahog; which could mean any kind of B.S. i know; but is anyone familliar with this?

tropical american maybe?

i got two slabs, one im keeping, cause its good enough for 2 les pauls @2" thick;

but the other one is 5"x3" and about 5 ft. i think; not much less if it is; its no good to cut up and put randomly in bodies and i refuse to use mahogany necks, its as straight grained as anything ive seen; i was gonna make a new guitar rack out of it cause that would be cool; but just as much id like to make money and this is prime neck wood for acoustics; i'll try to get some pics and post them in the for sale area

thanx

be careful w/ steam when theres glue;

id say steam it into shape throw some kitty litter on it over night then go back and then add glue

sorry mickguard, im gonna have to disagree with ya there

this kinda repair should take an hour for any skill level (as long as youve ever held a piece of steel wool)

just dont sand anything exept what you can cup your hand around (volute - heel) and make long strokes up and down the back of the neck; do this with 1 steel wool until your mark is gone; if that dosent remove it then your too deep and you will be reshaping the neck (if thats what you meant then i appoligize)

but that kinda repair aint worth it, if its really deep fill it with clear stick laquer then sand smooth

well the hard parts; no template for remembering to put the side dots on the right side; having the electronics 'upside down'; and the most recent one was putting the strings on in reverse, which i hate because unwinding a string and restringing it is waiting for bad news!

the covers are b&w ebony and the knobs are tigerwood(?) there cheap at LMI;

all i see is a stain; so it cant be too deep; i would sand down the back of the neck with steel wool (1-0000)

then coat it with tung oil; it'll even feel faster

the hard part is all the stuff that you dont have a template for

almost finished...

did the wiring and thru the strings on cause i couldnt wait; its not set up yet; its missing an input cover, back plate, truss rod cover and strap buttons; i'll do those after my birthday hangover is gone!

please feel free to visit my entirety of albums, more updates on the others to come; and the rest are for normal right handed payers! j/k

ya it seemed like there was 'a lot of hot air' in those posts; (previuos build-off)

ithink it could work if there was a set of rules that were presented as a' challenge'

as opose to discussing over every lil item; i think rich has the right idea;

as far as time; thats a hard one, because rushing is the best way to **** up a 5A piece o' wood;

but if theres any kind of contest, it cant span over into the 22nd century; nor hold up regular money maker , so you can buy donuts

ive taken months to get guitars finished!

competing would put a lil priority into it; but i wouldnt set it;

im gonna think a lil more; and read over those threads a bit closer and see if my giant brain can come up with something sensible.

please leave me input

anyone interested in a 'total friendly' build off?

basically not a race; but inside a certain time frame; no cncs; nothing that you already have every template for (personal production guitars) original designs; mostly (i know what im comfortable doing in the way of 'structure' and wouldnt vere entirely off) and maybe some PG VIPs would volenteer to scrutinize the builds?

but the main objective is documenting every step, which should also come into judgment; about how well you describe each step and why its being done (or why you think others ways are stoopid)

building instruments isnt a competition, but i think one round could be fun!

It might be worth taking a look at alder for the main wood for the body. It's not as light as ash, but it's a little cheaper and (I may be wrong here) easier to finish. The downside is it doesn't look as good under a transparent/transluscent finish and it is a little bit heavier.quote]

i think alder IS easier to finish; and i think it looks great in clear coat!

the downside is finding peices that are free of dog farts and knots, and hidden stress cracks that seem to find theyre way out in the final phases; which would be a +1 for painting, but its got a soft brown when its finished and i love it!

It's funny though...ever since I first started building guitars, everybody --and I mean everybody-- has asked me if I plan to sell any.

And they always seem surprised when I say no--as if no one in his right mind would build guitars just for the fun of it.

fair enough;

ive had guys say, they only radius the fingerboard so the frets go in easier, and then flattten the frets, which would make more sense to me, i find the radius helps fingering speed (personnally)

but technique is a personnal thing

no, it isnt hard; all you needis a flat block wide enough to cover the width of the board and sand until its all one level;

the real question, is 'why would you want to?'

i originally started using t.b.2 because it was the the newest hottest thing when i started; the few things before that i ever glued was old canadian tire yellow carpenters glue;

about a year or two ago i discovered t.b. 3 which i told myself 'if its new, it must be improved'!

i never notice too much faults in the way of glueing; but when i was using a varnish on a body the film seemed to follow the glue lines like a pit; there wasnt any noticable 'glue lines' but my centre lines and sandwich areas; and was told that t.b. 3 was too thin and left wide areas in the wood unseen by the naked eye!? and that the original is the only one worth using , especially when multi lamming(?) any opinions?

thanx