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Posts posted by low end fuzz
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im from grimsby (right across the water; hamilton-esque, just less dirty) im always in the city, i like checkin out a few of the guitar stores; steves was better when they had their high end bass section, but last time i checked it out it was overrun by some hideous instruments; i go to A&M a bunch of times, but Exotic woods is closer (burlington) and its easier to strike a deal with them when they know you; though i wish THEY had a burl room;
lending tools and what not doesn't seem like the greatest idea, since it could/would disturb the flow of production, but comparing notes and ideas on a personal basis is always cool; thats why i joined this board;
let me know what your into; i mostly do fretless electric jazz stlye basses, but every now and again do something totally freehand and buy some random pickups and throw 'em in; thats when the crazy wood gets used; instead of the ol' curly top mahog core,
this is my email for any reason
grantattack@hotmail.com
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alot of work for little effect; im sure someone is crying you want to destroy a 67;
make a full neck and use your fingerboard
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tell me you didnt originally buy it for your cellulite problem?
something tells me it might work; but id be worried about this fragerance they talk about; if its potent enough to smell like lemons on your skin, imagine on wood;
'golden rule'- try it on some scraps
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i would say put a plate ontop , i like the look of the carl thompsons alot; it may look wierd with front and back covers, but any defects on the front always look bad unless your willing to paint/sunburst
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is anyone familliar with these stores?
theyre basically good for **** (pardon my canadian french)
but when i was looking through their switches and what not, they got a lot of interesting toggles and switches like LED on/offs and the tinyiest mini switches etc.
my question is are they usable? is a switch just a piece of metal that directs the current another way or does it have to have enogh K's(?) (like 250k 500k) in order to move this kinda power?
;all my pots are usually 500k
these switches ARE cheap but thats the point
thanx
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nothing sucks more than routing for pickups and then not being able to get the ones you want;
i make sure i have all my electronics fisrt and personalize each one; not if there the exact same but i still want them infront of me b4 i cut
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well....
the only taper i have on my necks is from the sides; the neck always stays the same from heel to volute;
most ppl who request certain thickness to comfort seem to be in the 20-21mm (overall from top of fingerboard to back of neck) (this IS a fast neck) i think fenders are around 24mm (i know tthey taper both ways, but ithink thats stupid) the riskiest thickness i used was 16.4(or so; like ''and a half) and that was ebony fb and stringers with maple; hasnt warped yet;
but the inportant thing is comfort and how far you 'can' go
if you have 2mm of wood behind a trussod;thats well placed snuggly behind your fb, it should be fine; then i would use the strongest stuff you got
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it looks like NASA takin off; not my cup of tea, but metal heads are a different breed;
i bet if it was in wood form , there would be alot of fans on this site.
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ya ok, i could see that (1/2 thick top) i want to use a good soundbard wood like spruce and the block would be like a giant bridge brace;
should i brace the back of the soundboard if its spruce?
and/or if i use something hard will it sound like crap, id like to not have pickups; maybe a piezo but not like an electric guitar; i don't care about the'acoustics' in a way wheather its loud just something to pluck with in the back of the van
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like the title says;
kinduv an 'on the side project'
my inspiration came from a piece of alder i had leftover from a solid body, thats only 26'' long i was going to resaw and use for a core;
but i think instead i'll cut a pair of semi hollow sides (the ouiter wall(?)i dont know how to say it better)
and get a back and top for it;
when i see ppl use this method i see them use a middle piece through the center, for electronics and mounting the bridge;
i dont want this; im thinkin having the sides shoot up together in the middle(inside) a few inches on the top and bottom to mount the bridge and neck;
this is so i can have a nice soundhole in the top;
i want a tough back like ziricote or ebony and a top out of spruce (only to stay in an acoustic fashion, and cause i havent used it since i built an acoustic w/ my master;
the bridge will be like an acoustic but done up to acomadate bass strings; string thru or something
and now i begin.
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whenever im clamping anything w/ a radius or frets (+radius)
i use thick cork underneath and it forms enogh to give even direct pressure; also does a good job in not damaging frets if theyre finished!
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pau ferro is an exellent fb wood; nothing is a good substitute for brazillian r.wood but im starting to like it more than ebony; at least the gaboon (for looks)
and the only 'scientific' thing you need to know is ita as or harder than both of'em
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hahahaha;
newbies; oh wait; like me
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so.... are you just cutting an angle in the pieces out of the middle and joining them at another point in the book match?
if so; it works; ive done something like that to save areally interesting part of figure while eliminating a nasty knot;
the only thing id warn about is how much of an angle you put on the cut; to much and your grain will be to horizontal which may end up looking funny.
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ive never weighed them but, the mac & B weighs less than the quilted; mostly from the core being black walnut; which makes a big difference
grant
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you are all so very nice; both comments and trying to teach me how to post these; thanks
i need some different pics and im gonna give it go
many more thanx
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this stuff i used once calle Krylon (i think) its for plastic and metal and it dosent run;basically;
and it has high gloss black; its not like a mirror finish but its the closest thing i can get to a single can spray with no buffing;
though id spend the extra 6$ and buy a higher gloss clear coat for after; so you can flatten the paint w/ wetsanding; then put a light coat on so you dont have to touch it and it will have that right out of the can gloss look!
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hey thanks WezV;
im still a lil iffy, but i'm learnin
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http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/lowendfuzz/
im assuming this would work;
im trying to figure this code thing out
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i hope you dont think you offended me or sumtin; im not very good at explainig myself; your right though; about different lengths;
thats why when i first started up i told him specifically what i would do
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if you wanna see'em theyre in the pic section
lots more to come; i just figured out how to put them there!
myspace.com/liar4hire
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the reason i stayed all in inches and what not was because he dosent sound like a lumber yard guy; they'll know what hes talking about, i was trying not to confuse him; besides 4/4 rough stock is always thicker;
my finger boards i cut off of boards from a template; i quikly measured an ibanez i have and it was just under 25"; and he said he was using a 34" scale;
im sure the 8" wide board would confuse you if you make your necks different, ican get 3 laminates from a piece alil smaller than that ; and since he was only making one neck thats the dimensions i gave him;
also it takes more area because the neck angle is cut out of the board; just my way;
is that what you meant?
48" is how long the board is , to comfortably cut out top to bottom
and every measurement i gave was way oversized.......obviosly exept the fingerboard
grant
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very true; i could prolly get about 3 tops out of it;
but im a big fan of multi laminates that get rounded all over in the cutaways and whatnot;
inspired by a Ritter bass i saw once and never able to find again;
mickguard said it best; its definatly about the 'coolness factor'
but thanx
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http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/neck.htm
heres one right from here!
all there tutorials are pretty good; this isnt exactly what i mean though;
you see how they glued up the neck?
same idea but i would cut the general shape out out of the board so i have less waste; the sides that have glue on them used to be the top of the board; theyre cut out and put on their sides; they use two different types of wood; which is more pleasing; but take the pair from the same piece so it looks the same;
if you got time to kill google some othere tutorials online and you'll get the general idea of what theyre tring to aclomplish; i know ive seen lots on this forum
hope that'll work
Routing A Truss Rod Channel
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
is it possible to make a guitar w/o a router?
dont tell me you chisel out cavities, if so you are a god! or incredibly foolish;
my method is the same somewhat as mick gaurd but with a jig.
i drop the neck into a 'rubbered pocket' so it dosent move, and i have straight edge on modified f-clamps
attached to the pocket, so it can move back and forth (so i only need one for all the different sizes)
and just mark out where you want it and run the side of the router along the edge;
i got this idea from the way i did my first bass way back; i just clamped a straight edge right to the bass that was already in rough shape(thru neck) and did the same thing running along the edge where i marked;
check one end of the cut,move your s.e. check the other end (move s.e.) and theres your perfect line