low end fuzz

oh and the guts have been decided (if you were just thinking theyre isnt alot of holes in the front)

3way toggle neck/full/bridge

master tone

input

so basically the idea is, full on volume (controlled by amp) with only pup selection and tone tweaking;

when i was first asked about this ,i thuoght it was stupid to not put a volume, even one master one; but the more we discussed it, the more on board i am ,and the more im tinking of having this as ar egular featured setup;

really what do you need the volume for; but a on-off/killswitchwould be handy; not happening here though.

im the son of a bi+c# that named him Sue.

thanx; as it pertains to the actual look itself ,its buddies love child; if i can take any credit/pride in the project ,its gonna be if the freakin thing dosent turn to dust, when its rocked!

You could take off the top two frets and turn it into a 30" board. One of my favourite scale lengths :-D

is that like a joke, or are you serious?

i was going to make an order for a 30" template 2 days ago and forgot;

im gonna take a look at that fret calculator aswell.

made the join today; heel is set w/ 'pickguard' cover to enclose the tenon;

smoothed out the router work on the body before attaching and had most of the neck roughed out; i plan on carving the neck profile in as far as the fb; and then begin the transition; hence the long tenon;

the spalt is staying together rather well for all the tools ive been throwing at it, and so far no chunks being glued back into place; (knock on wood**) the 'pickguard' is a little sloppy around some of the edges i had to gouge out by hand, theyre noticable around the bright white maple, not at all on anything spalty, but i got some tricks to take care of that to the point of satisfaction.

i like the suggestions about the bursts and others, but the words came down from the top to leave everything natural and glossy, so thats where its goin.

grant

stew mac has a whole bunch of combinations of strat guards

uhm. i dont know if you want to fill it for 'tone' or aesthetic purposes;

but the best way to deal with an unused pickup cavity (especially on strats) is to buy a new pickguard with only the pup spaces you want.

ugliest guitar evvverrrr.

thank you;

darkening up the grain on the padauk is a good idea, for a suttle deadening of the colour; but as far as sunbursts go;

im not gonna make that desicion for someone else, if its something he wants to go for; he'll have to pay for it, and someone else will have to do it; when we were recently talking about it, he was really excited about how it looked like something we pulled from the trash; he asked me if i could break off the lower horn , but i wasnt into that;

i told him he could do it when we were done; and i could spray some laquer on the exposed wood for sealing;

i hope he changes his mind; but i couldnt really care after im paid (and he dosent do someting that he asks me to fix later!)

ya its an ortament of such;

its leftovers from other projects; maple (thruneck) padauk wings and an olivewood veneer top;

thanx; ihope she likes it, and lets me go back to making something playable!

thanx;

i agree with the padauk comment; i wish we would have thought it out a lil more

but when life gives you s#!t ,you make s#!+ salad.

and i thought that board would be the only one (besides an acrylised spalted board) that would seem to fit

the grand scheme of things;

well thanx for the kind words

ferrarri red.............its red; any red that isnt burgandy or pink will look the same with such striking complimenting colours.

if the paint is completly dry, you have to scuff it so the next layer has something to grab on to;

when i paint, i let the last colour coat flash off then hit it with a 'not to wet' coat of clear, so that before i start the clearcoating process your not scratching the paint directly with the chance of sand-thru.

this is my cheesy present for the gf

i used to make these for xmas presents and stuff and she would like to complain she didnt have one;

my buddy made me some fake pups and a bridge to throw on top after the oil dries;

its roughky a 25% scale model

you will never get what your work is worth on ebay ,even if it is a crap throw together; and especially if its an uncomplete project; your competing (technically) with a machine that spits out bodies and necks faster than they can cut down the trees.

they mostly are ,yes, made out of poplar and ash but the people who buy from ebay is all that they are looking for ; (because thats what fender uses)

which if your practicing, you should be using as well;

or well plywood ,

dont con people, even if it is some dumb rich kid on the other side of the planet;

it will come to haunt you.

haha;

ya it aint 'pretty'

it 'll look good when its done; not if you dont like supa spalt;

it is scraps technically , i had this huge block of maple, that buddy was insisting on;

so after a while of telling him its not big enough , i jokingly grabbed some maple and paduak scraps; and said there ,now its big enough; then he suprised the hell out o me by saying thats exactly what he wants; one mans trash is anothers treasure; so i had to be nice and give him a complimentary B&W board;

and what do you mean "why so big pickguard"? its an SG, thats the pete townsend style; the only one ive ever liked!

its made from curly myrtle;

a couple of racing stripes brrrrrrrrrrrrrr....

while i wait for my 5 string to cure, i started to slap this ugly ba$turd together;

thats what its gonna look like together;

and this is what the assembly looks like

alot to do before any more gluing happens, but i liked how this one is turning out;

its for the g-spot tornado, and im nervous about the spalt body, so i am driving home the 'no guarentees' clause

and will be using alot of epoxy for everything; neck set ;pickgaurd; sealer; and the few punky spots have gotten a stinky slobbering of water thin ca glue;

its a learning experience dealing with solid body of spalt (the back where the join is going to be is mostly clear w/ a bit of staining, so it shouldnt have any problems there) im mostly concerned about the hollowed cavity caving in; and how much glue and epoxy will get sucked in, but i really cant wait to not have to look at it anymore.

yesterday i sopped on some dye (not stain; waterbsed analine)

today i glued and clamped them;

i was just wonderin if anyone out htere has had experience; im not counting on the result i want; just hoping;

and i plan on epoxing the join because the joint area on the body is stained from the spalting further down; and i thought it would look cool to geta colour runout mixing w/the natural staining in the transition;

im dumb; but just as curious!

congratulations on discovering what a hard work and determination can get you!

like many things ,before you build one, its this big unrealistic goal, and ppl tell you that your crazy for trying;

now that its done and beuatiful, lets have the last laugh!

im thinking of a way to do a transition from a real funky piece body to a clear maple neck, without the traditional heel piece transition ;in a set neck;

so i was think ing if therye was a way sop in some colour like browns and some dark reds, into the neck pocket and on the neck itself prior to glueing;

tommorow i mgluing up the dyed test piece (maple to maple with a thick splash of dry dye)

and then carve a slope and sand it to fine

the idea would be to try to have a big stain blending the neck and body as opose to a glue line;

im mostly worried that the colour is just on the top and will be sanded away leaving only a dark glue line or nothing at all;

i guess i need a way to bleed the finish thru so it simulate carving into figure or spalting.

any ideas?

People route for pickups all the time without necessarily having the piece in hand...that's the beauty of interchangeable parts and premade templates. If I made a unique template for every guitar humbucker I've routed instead of using a standard template I would have pulled my hair out by now. For this project though, I'd like to get my template up and running and make some progress on the body while I'm waiting on my pickups. I don't build all that many basses so that's why I need a few specs.

i think what rai6 was getting at is what i beleive, that having the piece your trying to copy infront of you while templating;

its quite another thing to use a template over again before you have a pickup in your hand because you know its worked before; and was prolly made originally w/ the pup in hand; or bought from someone with the real measurements;

is the project that crucial that you couldnt wait for delivery?

its not a bad thing to be exited about your build, but if your referencing hiscocks book to difuse someones (maybe previous experience or) valid concerns, you might be headed for dissapointment.

good luck;

and add some pictures ,its more funner

i personaally like them; i got a humbucker and jazz combo, seriously its my favorite sounding bass; you rely on your amp for getting the volume cause theyre not perticularly loud , but its warm and perfect i think for the design ; not wanting to buy gibson mini h.b. and stuff; its an sg i made;

one thing to keep in mind about the humbucker specifically is its size;

keep it close to the fingerboard or your strings will not be centered over the entire pup.

How about you do the safe thing and get the hardware in your hands before performing a task that is irreversible....?

Just a thought.......

i would definatly second that;

but if you absolutly have to get ahead of yourself (hopefully just for templating not routing)

go to ebay and find the pickup, its a basic shape/model so look for knock off chinese guys and scroll thru the pages;

someone will have every measurement you can think of for that.

fyi- the corner radius is gonna have to be whatever the smallest bearing you can get on your router

stewmac sell a 3/8 flush which is the smallest ive seen

is this not a 'structural' make up of the sound board?

It is more for looks than anything. You reinforce the area with bracing from the back side. The edge of the soundhole (exposed endgrain), is not modified by the typical rosette. The wood or shell used for the typical rosette is not selected for strength or stability. Looks

i thought we were all talking about the bracing on the inside, around the soundhole; sorry

is this not a 'structural' make up of the sound board?

"balle de sac"

maple body with maple top cut intwo by purple heart ''tone block''

lacewood neck w/ curly center surrounded by maple stringer and black veneer;

bartolini soapbars and preamp

badass2 bridge

34"

24 fret rosewood board bound in curly maple

pearl logo

thin nitro on body

oil on neck

heres one that got put together the other day; i brought it out for song at practice and its creamy;

but i must put it away, i hope to sell it for money for school.

its got a (caramalized) maple body w/ quilt top and p.h. down the entire center;

rosewood fb with curly maple binding, 24 frets (w/ 7" tenon)

pearl inlay on a 7pc neck, lacewood/maple/blck venner/ curly hard/blck/mpl/lacewd.

bartolini soap bars, with 3 band eq

badass2 bridge

ebony knobs