low end fuzz

thats getting close to what i need; im working out a way to cut an f hole out; i want to have the bottom tail taper down to nothing, so none of my regular router bits would go small enough and routing freehand is never an option i entertain. but if those are out there for edges, im sure i could find a rabbett type one that i could change the beaings on to make it a flush bit.

thanx

wasnt trying to piss you off or anything;

but instruments are first and foremost 'functional'

everything else is asthetic; wood filler will dry and crumble out eventually, unless you finish it; and having gaps in your fb isnt good;

its fine if your learning; but if you cant take critisism after dumb moves, youve gone as far as you will;

good luck

is there anything in the way of template bearings or anything for dremel so i could inlay the same way i do my routing?

i cant find anything on their site, but it would seem silly that they wouldnt have something like that; they try to have everyhting else!

i think you need to slow down; think about what you are doing, and stop ruining your guitars; cheap or not.

if you ever take out frets again (which you shouldnt on guitars because your playing more than one note at a time) fill the slots w/venneer or binding then fill the cracks in the fb with the right coulored filler.

first off, yes, multi lam is going to be stronger

its the same amount of 'board feet'

(this isnt how i do it but most ppl do so i'll put it this way)

if your starting your neck with a perfect square (rectangle) you have a 3x3x?......

(also if its one piece its gonna have to be perfectly flat sawn so you can turn it on its side for perfect quarterd grain)

if you bought o plank of said wood 4/4 with just as much as you needed ,it would be the same amount of wood (also keep in mind that any special sized wood blocks are taken as 'special' and would probably cost more because theyre specific to certain ppl)

also if you cut out your own and laminated them, you can replicate the quarter sawn effect by countering the grain patterns; i.e. have the outside pieces grain both moving away or into the center strip, which helps

prevent twisting;

and to save even more money$ the way i do it is to cut out the laminates as a side profile of the neck (heel and headstock angled and stickin out further) proir to gluing; ppl dont embrace this because its not a perfect square, but a few clever jigs and its much worth the less wasted wood;

i get at least an extra neck piece from each board; which may not seem like alot, but they come in handy when you want a center strip from a different family

good night

iv ebeen staring at this pic, and, it looks like the grain that dosent match up is from carving into the wood; like bookmatching, then taking off too much and losing the carbon copy;

id almost say he slapped a piece fingerboard thick across the whole length the sliced out the drop in the headstock; and if not im gonna!

I used a curly redwood top on my last build and the wood is very very soft. Its best to finish it with something hard like poly(it will soak up poly like a sponge). I cant imagine it being very good for a bolt on neck. It is easy to work and looks awesome.

its good practise to use hard film finishes on 'spongy' woods, but isnt always nesescarry ;as far as a bolt on;

id do the same thing i do with swamp ash;route a deeper square in the neck pocket(not visible to outside) a few mm inside the perimeter of the pocket, and inlay something hard like rosewood or ebony, which is like a hidden neck screw plate, i know ash is denser, but the same theory could be relevant, maybe a lil thicker of support

hahahaha;

ya sorry for promoting another msg board, but it had to be done;

im gonna take another look at it, i mean obviosly it has to be 2 pieces; but i dont sse it; but ya....slick

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281148

its the 8th or so pic down;

it the fingerboard turning into the headstock plate boggles my mind; if its 2 pieces so be it; but it dont look like it to me!

also, ive decided my next body i glue up will be redwood, i always considered it no good for a 'body' wood (excluding tops) but it looks so good , if it turns out bad, i'll make it into a clock; lol

multi lam is always stronger; i dont care what anyone says!

and you dont lose any beuty laminating, and it 'technically' could be cheaper;

when i put together a multi lam 5+ i use 1/4" unfigured hard maple (3$ bf)in between other laminates and the stripes look way better to me than some figure; especially when it comes to dead spots in the flame and curls; even lil veneers seperating the maple looks so fancy, figure is the last thing your gonna miss;

and that will be one stable neck; but ya, still put in a rod

im with godin on his point about filling your plate; on the other hand, its always cheaper to make more than one a time, but if you make the same mistake 4 times, ya its not cheaper;

i would suggest doing all the cutting/gluing at the same time; then go to work on them one at a time (basically) get one all the way to the spray(finishing) stage; then catch up with the next one; and so on; then after theyre all sprayed assemble one at a time; best bet

i havent considered anything; but after thinking about it for a second or two; your prolly right on about piezos; i'd prolly have no choice;

unless i wound a 'super' pickup; id ont know, possibly the size of a shoebox?

if you only knew how lazy i was, youd be amazed i got this far; lol

that wood is a myrtle burl;

i'll write a lil sumtin under the pics in a moment

thanks for the comments

i was just writing back with....... but so are acoustic strings;

but acoustics do have pickups for them; exept im unfamilliar with them; do all your acoustic strings have to be metal or does the pick up just amplify the sound floating around the box?

so im thinking about making "an instrument"

this only exists in my head and on paper at Jack Astors

the best way to describe it would be , an upright bass ; that looks like a sitar; with less strings than a harp

follow? no; thats ok ;

my question is about the strings;

i want this to be electric;

i got into a discussion with my buddy and where talkin about possible piano strings or something like that ,that has a wide variety of size and length;

will pickups catch the string resonance of piano/harp wire?

or any suggestions?

im not set on doing this but it would be cool; but theres alot to research first

thanx

i really find the best and safest way of avoiding tearout and other dangers, is to do all the drilling before finishing (exept for tuning key screws/truss rod screws/strap buttons) the bridge you would screw on last, but if you do mark everything out in your placements you can drill them out first , then just clean them up a bit;

but if your persistant about drilling after the finish; i second the 'clamp wood on', or i would use a forstner bit and drill the one side till the center point gets thru; then flipping it over and cut it out by lining the points up; a lil tricky; but i do it when i install new control knobs in a finished body, with no problems yet

****knockin on wood

banjo wire works great for guitars!

they only seem too small until you play on them

yup;

i didnt mean ''wavy lines"

but not symetrical laminate 'tracks'/lines

im an idiot

ok; someone already touched on this, and now i cant find his thread anywhere;

is this rustins plastic available ;for purchase or shipping; in N America?

i remember the thread was responded with- ''why would you want it; isnt there alot more available in the states?''

the more i read about it, with examples; lookin at you wezv; the more it looks like a perfect solution for me;

ive written some emails to the company and what not, but nothin yet; has anyone on this side of the pond gotten any?

is that ktm-9 basically the same stuff? it dosent sound like exactly, but preach the same benifets; ie brushing on and what not;

thanx

that was my problem; i know im gonna be left with something; that could pass as 'perfect' but myself still see wavy type lines along the joining laminates;

but dont get me wrong, they look cool;

and you can have alot of fun with multi(multi,multi) laminates that dont turn out horizontally

use a belt sander

i just finished shaping a neck where i was experimenting with this;

i'll get some pics;

the body was all done in a pin stripe fashion, so i decided to make the neck opposite too;

i think it looks cool; but man, it is impoosible to make it look exactly right;

i got purpleheart against the fingerboard under hard maple;no figure (thank god)

even when all my straight edges and guides were dead on the top peice still seemed to look wanky;

the cool parts about it; besides being different;

it makes the middle (top) laminate taper by itself; the laminates dissapear under the headstock; which looks cool;

oh another bad thing is the glue lines; when your carving such an oval(?)-esque type shape it gives alot more of an angle for glue lines to show there ugly head;

i'll go get some pics if i remember

if you f.polished the headstock and its cloudy; one way they say to bring it back is to wipe methoyl hydrate across it, which agetates the shellac to filling in its own scratches; which when there are less = more gloss;

but what i would do is take it to a sterile enviroment and wipe tung oil across it, and leave it do dry, the extra little coat will give it a more reflective look and uncloud the appearance.

if its jet black (gaboon) id use epoxy with some dust and xerox ink ; it makes it so black and seems to give it the same (gloss?) as a highly 'polished sanded' ebony; i do the same for inlays; i dont even bother making a shape i drill the appropriate size and super glue and fill; hard as hell' loooks perfect, and if it cracks after its all radiused and fretted, you just do it again!

that would be the first thing id be asking;

theyre prolly not powerful enough to make a difference if theyre only on the lip of your cavity cover;

id be worried about a screw or fret nip stuck to it and being dragged across the back of the body; but thats pretty extreme!