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Posts posted by low end fuzz
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1.yup
2.why bother; throw in graphite strips or 1/4 square bar parralell to truss rod on both sides (most extreme case)
3. your wrapping purpleheart in oak; i think it'll make it. although for me, more laminates = more better (asthetically)
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rattle cans always create problems, because the pressure is not steady;
usually when theres a problem with the sheen; its due to scratches; wheather they are visible or not; high sheen is when the scratches are almost gone; satin is fine scratches everywhere eliminating reflecting light;
(i think i said that right)
orange peel is from a few things; if it goes on too heavy or too quik; air can get in the finish and be trapped; another cause is oil and/or silicone left under the paint;
yoiur best bet is to resand everything ; start at 220 and level everything out flat; id start to wetsand to hide any fine scratches and go as high a number (without skipping too many between) grit sa you can;
dont use steel wool; it contains oil which will effect your paint;
after that repaint it; but do the lightest coats in the world; it will prolly take 3-5 coats but you will have no runs and it will dry fast which takes away the risk of falling dust; which means no sanding and youll be left with the same color you sprayed with
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ya...... when i lost my spray booth i lost my buffer;
and no power drill accesarry or cheap buffer could even get as good as this;
i tried; but if i had my 2H buffer, i would use brush on laquer/poly and sand the s#!t out of 'em
thats why i even bother with all these extra steps
but point taken
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imo;
if your going to buy all these tool supplies you might aswell buy some of the materials in bulk for future projects;
and if your going to spend 800$ on materials, you should find some pickups a little more worthy than the stewmacs;
i use alot of them on prototypes all the time; there good, but drop an extra 100$ on something with balls; like somthing vintage; if you dont have an old music guy in town ebays not a bad way to go;
but it looks like your organized; wanna do MY bookkeepin?
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now that im without a spraybooth to use; i decided that i would go with oil; always wanted to use soft finishes; unfortuanatly;though i like th eidea of a 'woodier' tone and simple fixes, it just dosent have the lustre i thought i could et out of it; even from the ones boasting 'high lustre';
alot of the tung oil out there is actually wiping varnish ,which is not good;
i tried some shellac, first as a sealer so i didn't have to fill all the porus lumber perfectly;
then i kept building layers and leveling them out;
i dilluted it to prolly under 1 pound cut with methyl hidrate and just kept adding quik layers; any dust or whatever landed on it ,i would wet sand out;
then after i was happy with absolutly no bumps or divets, i wiped on the polmerized tung oil;
just a thick coat on left for a minute or so (not sure if its even necassary) then wiped off in a polishing fashion;
it is almost a mirror finish; a little flatter;
not better or worse than nitro; just different;
its like a high gloss with no bright reflection;
i'll take a picture when its all together; which is still a lil away; i had an accident with the first one i tried
later
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i think the problem was, my pilot holes were a size too small; they were definatly deep enough;
as for a plug hole cutter; i get the idea (i think) of metal tubing; im guesing you would make a drilling motion with it to cut a round hole into the wood around the screw; but how would you remove the 'dowel' (containg the screw) from the wood?
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so im screwing my neck to the body; pilot holes are all good and straight;lined up and what not;
put all my screws in about 7/8s the way ; go back to tighten them to the body and 'snap';worst thing ever!
there is a good 3-4mm of hole between the surface and the broken screw; the screw broke at the beginning of the thread. it must of grabbed a little to much of the lyptus on the side.
first i tried to make a new slot in the broken piece to fit a screwdriver inside to screw it out; but after the slot was made it was to soft to try to turn and couldnt hold its form; about now i was ready to try anything; i considered moving the hole, but that would mean plugging alot of things visible; i was going to do the same thing and make a plate for the back of the body/neck joint; but moving the screws that much would look 'tarded; so what i ende up doing (with stress and regret) was cut about half the heel off from back and bottom to make a step to get me past the end of the broken screw, so i could grab vice grips and turn it out;
now the grips wont work; they have nothing to grab onto i guess; so ,now im pissed (moreso) so i grab my smalles chisel and dig it out; now im left with a crater and half a heel.
i redrilled the crater to 1/4'' and filled the hole w'dowel ;
tommorow im gonna refit a piece onto the bottom of the heel; the problem is its so awkward theres gonna be gaps and glue lines; and im gonna have to refinish at least most of the neck!
it sucks because theres a small piece of removed wood that shows in the corner of my neck pocket;
so im thinkin of epoxyin the **** out of it; sand it level/smooth and paint/shade the defective area to hide the joint; whick sucks because its a 5 piece neck with a 6 piece heel of all bright colours ;maple/purple/lyptus;osage
and i dont know how to make it look good
and that s how i turned a 20 minute job of screwing the neck bridge and machine heads on, into a 2 hour job that got nothing done
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one word.......cool
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theres a tutorial in the tutorial section on this site;
but for more interactive advice, go to the finishing section, and post the same message
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just use lemon oil;
alot of 'oils' that are made for skin and/or food sometimes leave a film making the wood seem sticky;
stick w/ lemon; but if you want something pricier tung or walnut oil(not the food one) works well but they tend to stay closer to the surface and work well as a coat over dry wood and dont do well enogh as lube if your wet sanding/cleaning the wood aswell
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i was refering more to the patience of removing wood ; i only thickness tops and glue lines; and that is boring; i sand for bumps and defects; cut to remove stock ;
i read my first post and i did say i didnt get it; not exactly what i meant
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as long as they have individual functions, im ok w/5 knobs; but how many splits/actions can you get from 2 hums?
also make something to keep the wiring tight to the top; or your gonna see them dancing inside the f-hole;
cool design; conservative and classy
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what is that; 'crotch pommelle sappelle'?
theres some cool stuff happening there
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it obvioslly works for you to do them on a thickness sander, but after reading your page dont understand how you got it to work;
the technique im familiar with is on a table saw;
i liked your equation for working out the angle; ive been using trial and error;
glue one side of laminates (including middle) run thru ancle jig on tablesaw; plane flat, and glue the other half on;
but i just got my OWN thickness sander so maybe i 'll give that a whirl!
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different family;
making the outside pieces of the same 'family' and the middle one diffent looks asthetically pleasing
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maybe you could add some pictures to go along with this question?
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if you think your good enough to make a set neck (ie, snug fit, no gaps, perfect on the first shot)
id suggest doing that , but instead of gluing it, screw in 4 shallow screws;
then you have the benifit of fixing any errors, a set neck snug, and the security of screws without forcefully pulling your neck back into your pocket, which allows for a more un compressed sound;
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you could taper the center laminate so the maple on both sides are uniform all thru the neck; but if its a 'thru neck' design then it will also be tapered in the body; which isnt that bad;
if your really worried about it, use something stronger than mahogany and it will be more than enough; i dont like mahogany, but the glue on both sides of it should keep it from going anywhere
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i dont think anyone would set up a cnc for one custom body;
though i could be wrong
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get regular fret cutters and cut flush to the fret head from underneath using about a 1/8 of the cutter; then with edge of the cutters cut off the piece vertically;
i hope that made sense;thats how you do it;
maybe someone will have a quik photo to help
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it looks like the piece of imbuya im using;
its nice
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WHAA?
in the wood?
like a wormy effect, or heartwood of birdseye?; thats crazy; wow
i guess i wont be 'trying' anything!
thanx
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he is definatly an artist; i wonder their playability;
and how likly breaking something off could happen, im sure their tough and laquered, but the maine of the lion is veneer done in a paper mache' type job;
beutiful none the less;
how does one enter gotm?
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i saw abass with ;what i was told; a mineral stained poplar top; wow that looked cool!
ive never heard of a mineral stain; ive heard of dilluting dyes and/or stains with mineral spirits when that is the transporter(main ingrdient)? icant remember the real word, bear with me) but never heard the term before ;is it the same thing; second; if you dye your work with water based (aniline) dyes, prior to glue,will they glue together just as well, assuming you dewhisker them for seemless lamination; or will it interfere with the hold; and if its completley dry is there a chance of bleeding into the next laminate when sanding or when the entire peice is dewhiskered?(wetted)
thanx
Allparts Dispute
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
im working on a 5 string right now, and i had to replace the bridge;
its not a great guit; but whatev; it needed the string spacing of 2 3/4 to 2 13/16 so i ordered an economy bridge from allparts which said the string spacing was 2 13/16;
well sir, i rested it on my body and began to line up my string path and both strings are ready to fall the edge of my guitar;
i measure my saddles (from string space to string space) and its a whopping 76mm (3")
now i dont care about the bridge because i'll just make a fingerboard that it can accomidate, so no problem;
i write them and explain my problem and ask them if they could physically measure one (or at least tell me why its off more than a 1/8 " ;
so they write me back and tell me they could send ''this one'' which happens to be the one i have problems with;
now i know you get what you paid for, but does it usaully conflict with measurements?
i dont know what they could be measuring to make up the 3/16?
is this common? i make my fingerboards to the bridges i have at the time so i dont know what will happen if i order a bridge from somewhere else? is it gonna be 3'' too?
so if anyone bought a 5 string bridge from stewmac; allparts or lmi could you measure it; and if its 2 3/4" - 2 13/16" could you please gimme the description and/or number
thank you very much