-
Posts
909 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
News and Information
Tutorials
Product Reviews
Supplier Listings
Articles
Guitar Of The Month
Links and Resources
Forums
Gallery
Downloads
Posts posted by low end fuzz
-
-
if your making your own guitar there technically is no 'rules'
really you SHOULD make your own nut, thats the rewarding part; when you buy bone (5$) its oversized to prolly about 2'' so no problem there;and the nut files; what i have is stewmac s two thinest files and a jewerly file set that gives me all my widths; just cut even spacing to what your width is and you'll be fine;
the problem starts when you get to the other end of your guitar; i couldnt tell you where to find a bridge to accomidate your wide spacing; unless you want to have barely no taper in the width you might be screwed; espescially if your already having cash issues;
oh and if its your first nut; dont be nervous; but you might wanna buy some backup pieces, or practise on some wood first;
good luck
-
where are ppl finding all this cheap ebony?
i pay 49$(can) b.f. for the gabon and maccassar is even more
is all this ebony dry or green?
-
i did the same thing to these saddles in a bridge, where the lowest they would go, wasnt low enuff;
it was for a fretless ; then i just ground the hex screws so they wernt pokin out
-
i got a lathe and am no expert, but i can make a damn good cylindar shape; i wanna turn a bunch of knobs, and was wondering where i could find the proper sized innerds (i wanna say sprokets, cause it sounds right;but i may just like the word) either that or i was thinking of having a lil allen screw like from bridge saddles to tighten against the post; but id really rather the ''sprockets";
maybe a circuit city?; im thinkin in the way of where ppl would go when they break their tv knob or sumtin?
help please
thank you
-
if strings will eat thru a fretless board of wood, id assume the same for a nut; mind you this is bass, and any damage is multiplied; im gonna assume your talkin 6-strings, but if not, try em w/flatwounds
-
just wonderin; did the stained wood filler accept an oil finish?; or did it turn out with dry freckles where the deep pores were?; or did you use another finish?
-
ive used pink ivory 3 times; 2 acoustic (i just made them for existing guitars)
1 bass i made; and they turned out awsome; though i wouldn't suggest it on 'metal thraher' type guitars because the string would act like a half round rasp; im still anticipating having to make a new nut soon for my bass, although 2 months of consistant playing and not much difference!
im sure the same principles would apply; and who cares go for it; someones gotta try it once before its the new big thing;
*i dont use bone unless on request because that smell isnt worth it; i rather cheap out on plastic
-
id suggest a truss rod; ebony IS hard as steel, and if its bone dry prolly would never move; but everyone knows how long ebony takes to dry; its ok to use it prematurely on thin(ner) sections like fingerboards because the neck will stop any warp that could happen to it; but as a main structure you could have problems as soon as the humidity changes
-
cool;
is that a spalted back/burl top?
is there more pics of that one on your site?
-
HOTT!
can i ask why you use wenge accent veneers? the pics look great;but black,
is it thick enough to see the grain?; or is it readilly available?
perhaps it adds that extra punch?
i use dyed pear for all my accent lines and i'm interested in your reason;
i was thinkin about using 'wood'(besides the dyed stuff) veneers for accent lines, but when i use them on heels and headstocks (pizza box variety veneers;not big enough for body) i find they chip alot easier when shaping; i guess it would be a grain tearout; and what sucks is having to fill a subtle line because the sleekness is gone;
just curiuos;
-
i get whaty your saying, but the only thing i dont like about staining right onto wood is the blotchiness; for staining i always put a bit of oil first so the stain is more even; and if i stain it jet black, by the time i reach my colour most the pores will be clogged up
are you telling me then its no good for filler and oil?
-
so like it says;
my plan is to washcoat it with tung oil; pore fill, stain and seal with more tung;
is that (besides all the work filling the grain) basically the call of things?
i dont have the filler yet, i want to keep everthing oil;i'm assuming i have to; i always like tung oil, unless its aburl or something spalted
should i stain before pore fill or after;
my thinkin was (after 1st washcoat) either i want to stain the entire piece and fill the remaning divets with filler; or i want to fill the pores and stain over everything; but idont know if the the fill will take on the color?
i think turqoise grain on "jet as you can" black would look pretty fancy
-
right now it is about 15mm; i want to use it for a core between sipo and quilted maple;
i know its not expensive; but thats beside the point; i dont just throw things out if i think theres achance i can save it;
maybe 1mm is a lil over exagerated but the cup/twist is pretty bad;
my humidity is always in check, its stays around 65,but my air cond. is pulling alot of moisture out of the air;more than normal; it wasnt stickered, i usually dont bother with purpleheart/bloodwood stuff like that; i do my walnuts and thin tops
this purpleheart prolly spent most of the time on its side leaning on the shelf
if i had to explain the warp, i'd say(use your imagination) the bottom of the one end is as high as the other ends top;did i explain that right?
im use to 4/4 and 8/4 stock of PH so ive never really seen a twist in it either
thanx guys
-
i got a top of purpleheart thats been thickness sanded; then it sat around for quite awhile and got quite a twisted cup; do you think if i glue it up in a stack; like two halfs of the body ontop of each other,
i could get them to flatten and hold under the clamps? and would it start to seperate after the clamps are gone?
by the time I plane and sand the warp out im gonna have a mm.
and all of that work isnt worth it
but i dont wanna have to scrap the body wood too
-
nope, im just blind;
thats exactly what im lookin for;
thanx
-
fair enough, i give;
but to me, it sounds like your trying to get away with something, as opose to making the effort to build the strongest neck possible;
opinions are like @$$holes, and im only comfortable with mine;
-
obviously setch thinks its a good idea; personnally i avoid anything in my neck that isn't quartered and straight grained;
i know people use mahogany with great sucsess, but it dosent seem right if its not an acoustic
i guess im stubborn with my ways, but i find my best projects are when the neck is hard as possible and
the body is mixed;
*stained (dogfart/heartwood) birdseye makes the best (hardest) fingerboards, and everyone is afraid to use it!
-
fair enough;
i still cant find metal ones; im sure they are better
-
i say 2oo cause theyre just one of those things you ALWAYS need;
2 on each guitar; + extras for repairs, i think its a good number;
but thank you any help would be great; i cant understand why jackplates are more popular than strap buttons?
-
dont use ash;
i personnally beleive that will kill the ''instrument''
even a multi-lam neck; stick to your hardwoods; straight quartered pieces
you need your neck to be as solid as possible ;woods with crazy grain are gonna pull every which way
my favs are hard maple, purpleheart lyptus and ebony
and please dont make a 2 laminate neck; it defeats the extra work even with straight grain hardwoods they could pull at certain spots that are joined with a weak grain and its not enuff to hold it back
and even just for looks stay with uneven # of laminates 1,3,5,7,9 etc.
hope that helps, but it problly means you have to spend mo' money
i read your msg again and i get why you wanted to use the ash in the neck ;so it looks all funky cathedrals and what not in the neck; but theres no excuse to use 'soft' maple; that would be a waste of your time;
but died ash would be a cool idea for the neck, if it was show piece you dont plan on playing
-
no.......... i mean strap buttons;
as in the buttons to hold on the strap;
WHICH i can only find in sets of endpins for acoustic guitars
-
i run the back across my bandsaw for the belly cut( more shaping after with the rasp; but its the best way i find to get a good straight start; lil risky feeling sometime)
and over the jointer for the arm 'rest'; draw a line whre you want it to be and make that to the edge of your planer hold it on a lil angle and joint it off
-
lets cut this down a bit;
i need plastic strap buttons; stew mac only sells individual wooden ones and their plastic ones are only with a 290 endpin sets
anybody?
lookin for like 200+ sets
-
its true that for the most part rosewood dosent need oil; but it makes a good lubricant if your getting out scratches from fret dresses or any other random scratches;
i wouldnt advise tung oil though; its a personal preference but tung oil builds a finish which means although it IS soaked in the wood it also sits on the wood which i hate; which is also why i'll never play a maple board; .............even though i made one
Wtb:thickness Sander
in The Marketplace
Posted
lookin for used thickness sander
at least 18"
grantattack@hotmail.com