low end fuzz

is it possible to make a guitar w/o a router?

dont tell me you chisel out cavities, if so you are a god! or incredibly foolish;

my method is the same somewhat as mick gaurd but with a jig.

i drop the neck into a 'rubbered pocket' so it dosent move, and i have straight edge on modified f-clamps

attached to the pocket, so it can move back and forth (so i only need one for all the different sizes)

and just mark out where you want it and run the side of the router along the edge;

i got this idea from the way i did my first bass way back; i just clamped a straight edge right to the bass that was already in rough shape(thru neck) and did the same thing running along the edge where i marked;

check one end of the cut,move your s.e. check the other end (move s.e.) and theres your perfect line

im from grimsby (right across the water; hamilton-esque, just less dirty) im always in the city, i like checkin out a few of the guitar stores; steves was better when they had their high end bass section, but last time i checked it out it was overrun by some hideous instruments; i go to A&M a bunch of times, but Exotic woods is closer (burlington) and its easier to strike a deal with them when they know you; though i wish THEY had a burl room;

lending tools and what not doesn't seem like the greatest idea, since it could/would disturb the flow of production, but comparing notes and ideas on a personal basis is always cool; thats why i joined this board;

let me know what your into; i mostly do fretless electric jazz stlye basses, but every now and again do something totally freehand and buy some random pickups and throw 'em in; thats when the crazy wood gets used; instead of the ol' curly top mahog core,

this is my email for any reason

grantattack@hotmail.com

alot of work for little effect; im sure someone is crying you want to destroy a 67;

make a full neck and use your fingerboard

tell me you didnt originally buy it for your cellulite problem?

something tells me it might work; but id be worried about this fragerance they talk about; if its potent enough to smell like lemons on your skin, imagine on wood;

'golden rule'- try it on some scraps

i would say put a plate ontop , i like the look of the carl thompsons alot; it may look wierd with front and back covers, but any defects on the front always look bad unless your willing to paint/sunburst

is anyone familliar with these stores?

theyre basically good for **** (pardon my canadian french)

but when i was looking through their switches and what not, they got a lot of interesting toggles and switches like LED on/offs and the tinyiest mini switches etc.

my question is are they usable? is a switch just a piece of metal that directs the current another way or does it have to have enogh K's(?) (like 250k 500k) in order to move this kinda power?

;all my pots are usually 500k

these switches ARE cheap but thats the point

thanx

nothing sucks more than routing for pickups and then not being able to get the ones you want;

i make sure i have all my electronics fisrt and personalize each one; not if there the exact same but i still want them infront of me b4 i cut

well....

the only taper i have on my necks is from the sides; the neck always stays the same from heel to volute;

most ppl who request certain thickness to comfort seem to be in the 20-21mm (overall from top of fingerboard to back of neck) (this IS a fast neck) i think fenders are around 24mm (i know tthey taper both ways, but ithink thats stupid) the riskiest thickness i used was 16.4(or so; like ''and a half) and that was ebony fb and stringers with maple; hasnt warped yet;

but the inportant thing is comfort and how far you 'can' go

if you have 2mm of wood behind a trussod;thats well placed snuggly behind your fb, it should be fine; then i would use the strongest stuff you got

it looks like NASA takin off; not my cup of tea, but metal heads are a different breed;

i bet if it was in wood form , there would be alot of fans on this site.

ya ok, i could see that (1/2 thick top) i want to use a good soundbard wood like spruce and the block would be like a giant bridge brace;

should i brace the back of the soundboard if its spruce?

and/or if i use something hard will it sound like crap, id like to not have pickups; maybe a piezo but not like an electric guitar; i don't care about the'acoustics' in a way wheather its loud just something to pluck with in the back of the van

like the title says;

kinduv an 'on the side project'

my inspiration came from a piece of alder i had leftover from a solid body, thats only 26'' long i was going to resaw and use for a core;

but i think instead i'll cut a pair of semi hollow sides (the ouiter wall(?)i dont know how to say it better)

and get a back and top for it;

when i see ppl use this method i see them use a middle piece through the center, for electronics and mounting the bridge;

i dont want this; im thinkin having the sides shoot up together in the middle(inside) a few inches on the top and bottom to mount the bridge and neck;

this is so i can have a nice soundhole in the top;

i want a tough back like ziricote or ebony and a top out of spruce (only to stay in an acoustic fashion, and cause i havent used it since i built an acoustic w/ my master;

the bridge will be like an acoustic but done up to acomadate bass strings; string thru or something

and now i begin.

whenever im clamping anything w/ a radius or frets (+radius)

i use thick cork underneath and it forms enogh to give even direct pressure; also does a good job in not damaging frets if theyre finished!

pau ferro is an exellent fb wood; nothing is a good substitute for brazillian r.wood but im starting to like it more than ebony; at least the gaboon (for looks)

and the only 'scientific' thing you need to know is ita as or harder than both of'em

hahahaha;

newbies; oh wait; like me

so.... are you just cutting an angle in the pieces out of the middle and joining them at another point in the book match?

if so; it works; ive done something like that to save areally interesting part of figure while eliminating a nasty knot;

the only thing id warn about is how much of an angle you put on the cut; to much and your grain will be to horizontal which may end up looking funny.

ive never weighed them but, the mac & B weighs less than the quilted; mostly from the core being black walnut; which makes a big difference

grant

you are all so very nice; both comments and trying to teach me how to post these; thanks

i need some different pics and im gonna give it go

many more thanx

this stuff i used once calle Krylon (i think) its for plastic and metal and it dosent run;basically;

and it has high gloss black; its not like a mirror finish but its the closest thing i can get to a single can spray with no buffing;

though id spend the extra 6$ and buy a higher gloss clear coat for after; so you can flatten the paint w/ wetsanding; then put a light coat on so you dont have to touch it and it will have that right out of the can gloss look!

hey thanks WezV;

im still a lil iffy, but i'm learnin

http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/lowendfuzz/

im assuming this would work;

im trying to figure this code thing out

i hope you dont think you offended me or sumtin; im not very good at explainig myself; your right though; about different lengths;

thats why when i first started up i told him specifically what i would do

if you wanna see'em theyre in the pic section

lots more to come; i just figured out how to put them there!

myspace.com/liar4hire

the reason i stayed all in inches and what not was because he dosent sound like a lumber yard guy; they'll know what hes talking about, i was trying not to confuse him; besides 4/4 rough stock is always thicker;

my finger boards i cut off of boards from a template; i quikly measured an ibanez i have and it was just under 25"; and he said he was using a 34" scale;

im sure the 8" wide board would confuse you if you make your necks different, ican get 3 laminates from a piece alil smaller than that ; and since he was only making one neck thats the dimensions i gave him;

also it takes more area because the neck angle is cut out of the board; just my way;

is that what you meant?

48" is how long the board is , to comfortably cut out top to bottom

and every measurement i gave was way oversized.......obviosly exept the fingerboard

grant

very true; i could prolly get about 3 tops out of it;

but im a big fan of multi laminates that get rounded all over in the cutaways and whatnot;

inspired by a Ritter bass i saw once and never able to find again;

mickguard said it best; its definatly about the 'coolness factor'

but thanx

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/neck.htm

heres one right from here!

all there tutorials are pretty good; this isnt exactly what i mean though;

you see how they glued up the neck?

same idea but i would cut the general shape out out of the board so i have less waste; the sides that have glue on them used to be the top of the board; theyre cut out and put on their sides; they use two different types of wood; which is more pleasing; but take the pair from the same piece so it looks the same;

if you got time to kill google some othere tutorials online and you'll get the general idea of what theyre tring to aclomplish; i know ive seen lots on this forum

hope that'll work