low end fuzz

you should be!

sorry; but the only nut ive ever seen match up have been on fenders (american)

blanks are whewre its at; and ifyour in a tight spot ,use wood; either forever (i still like em) or change it when you get the next chance; like a string change

gonna be like that are ya?

your punishment is another (bad) photo of me muahah!!!

workin on it, you parade-rainer!

truly horrible pics; but its all i got to signify the completion of the build.

the new owner has photo studio acsess, so i didnt even bother trying to get a good shot

as you can see my personal hygene has been lackig from trying to wrap this upover te long weekend

thanks much;

although raising the neck angle works; your changing the instrument a lot;

your moving the physical distance of the strings from the pickups; (which of course can be raised aswell) and (im assuming you raised the angle with a shim) leaves a gap in the neck to body contact inside the pocket.

doesent seem the way to go when string height and overall functionality issues arnt the problem, just fixing a nuesance with as little disruption as possible

bad photo; i know.

you can barely make out the cookie monster;

but its all i got right now;

the wood bridge wasnt workin for me, so i got 6 idividual saddles, mounted them on some birdseye with a ph tailpiece to keep those fat strings stretched

hoping to play it by the end of the weekend

i would still consider that a personal opinion/preference; because the mass population is still stuck in the standard scale spacing for guitar for their little fingers to play it; although i do agree with you at some length; and would back off the certainty of some of my statement

i still think alot of clamps is a great thing; what you should take from that is the more clamps you add the less tightening each clamp should get; cause i love to make sure theres a clamp for every 2-3"

those are cool!

reminds me of the ken lawrence semi-hollow stuff

never use putty if your able to get a splint in there (although i still stand by my opening point) no matter how many 'craftsmen' use it; it doesnt react the same and will either fall out or crack

for a first build, i be much more concerned with going thru the steps and learning from mistakes and at the same time having the easiest methods to fix them; than having the specs correct of a legendary master building factory;

bt i tottally agree again, with taking your time and doing everything perfect; no guts no glory; but whaen your in your 6th month and hit a snag that kybosh's the whole instrument; how fast r u gonna reset and try it again?

not sure who said it; but if you decide to go set/thru neck; post everything and anything your not 100% on and alot of people will help you every step of the way; myself included if you like

my girlfriend made me watch that movie with those guys i the theatre seats the other day! not my thing,(as a movie) but that would be perfect!

what was that flik called?

2 points i agree on aswell;

sg's should have set necks;

first time builds should be bolt ons.

and a 'front bolt' is what exactly?

it cant be what im picturing in my head

i beleive thats an opinion based question; so i'll chime in an opinion based answer;

your techniques and knowledge (based on questions you ask; i dont actually know what you know) i would tackle a bolt on; for the ability to be able to fix problems that come up alot easier than a one piece guitar;

one big mistake on a one piece usually sends the project to the back burners, or a long heartache of trial and error, not to mention havin gto deal with a full lenght guitar thru the entire build process.

my $.02

ya... it looks like what happened to my headstock veneer; it was a 'bubble' of sorts that i drilled thru; i put some glue in the crack and clamped it down flat; it 'worked' but mine was also dyed blue, and the the crack even after resanding had like inside grain showing so the crack is and would always be darker; but i stopped it from developing and took it as a learning experience

hollowout the middle and throw anything back there

i hate rickenbakers; i cant beleive i like this one so much!

sounds like some of those methods would leave burrs that might damge the inside hole of the saddle; maybe not but thats why i alway choose to grind parts that need to be threaded in

Canadian tire and home depot............something tells me you might not be familliar with those; i think lowes is like that tho; if thats an american 'nation wide' store?

1850 i the best as far as i like for everything; but with a tough finish you might be applying 2-3 times and still needing to put a little elbow grease on it............and don't do i inside.

it all depends on how 'grainy' your tallkin

i would grab some 220 paper and scuff it up; the finish has to powder; then i'd build up coats of wipe on poly (tru oil? if that the same thing?) sanding inbetween coats/ following their directions, it will eventually level off

i would get get some pliers and another hard item (another set of pliers or screwdriver?) grab your screw with the pliers; bottom side (the one without the allen key opening) out and grind them on a disc sander whilst using your screw driver to push down the oposite end down (for control) against the table; not nesesarry but safer!