low end fuzz

cool repair; im gonna mostly agree wth prostheta; the crack should be dealt with; and opening it up (when your ready) is the best way to get the most possible glue/epoxy in as possible; but in the end any clear coat is going to make the crack more noticable; you can eiter live with it knowing you fixed the crack from being a problem down the road or paint it; solid or a burst of some kind; either way you still got a cool neck thru bass there!

actually i'm counting on it going burgandy; one of the many reasons im finshing it in oil

if i may back pedal a bit here;

i'm interested in the neck join;

it appears like a set in design ala thru neck; that i understand; but did you clamp the edges and actually sqeeze the sides glued to the neck? cuz i like that!; seems like alot of extra work compared to just gluing a neck thru; but whats the thinking behind it? and am i even correct about what you did there

i certainly hope so!

began carve

a look at the profile

scarf joint comin along

back; cavity cover and battery box

3/4 view from top

back view

inlay

knobs; mahogony and purpleheart

mockup; maple, purpleheart bridge; 6th saddle is missing in photo for a quik fix but is back; the knobs have pearl markers now

so; ive been workin along here; had kind of a blog happenin on my facebook, so instead of doing it all over i'll just drop a few photos with breif descriptions if even needed; this has been a fun build and am comin to an end; it will be coming with me as one of the instruments to MIAC; which is our crappy Canadian only version of NAMM; but for me its great; enjoy

thought thru the whole month i was gonna vote for the drifter; something about it was very up my alley; kinda Myka like with the theming; but i voted for daves (prs tait) git cause i was so happy he changed it

no, it doesent affect the vintage-ness of it; its a screw; and they need to be changed to keep your instrument in optimal working condition; when a turn signal dies on a vintage car do you stop making lefts?

i dont beleive you should ever change your style for an instrument; at least your bread and butter instrument; if anything i would shop for an insrument that suited my style perfectly; thats like sayin to go to a gym so you can play a 50lb bass

buzz down the bottoms of the screws

oh good god.

haha; nut oil;

so why dont we have a tutorial section that replies cant be added to, so if you want to be nice enough to create one you make it there and like the guitar of the month, if its not a tutorial its deleated?

i get what some are saying about the laziness factor of sitting back and saying 'spell it out for me; and hold my hand thru each step' but i bet most people would be more likely to make a nice accrate tutorial displaying their skills if someone asked for it and was going to put it in a special section

^Glossary

i like that template one;

i think that the list of tutorials is pretty complete but the thing i find is alot seem outdated compared to the progress/innovation of techniques used in daily builds on this site alone; e.g. the veneering top tutorial should be updated to an affordable 'home luthier' vaccuum bag tutorial; and i'd like to see more on swirls actually; really lamens term type tut.

personally i consider an attached fretboard past the point of binding; but i guess if the board was flat or something flat to run the router on a rabbet bit would do the trick with the proper bearing; but id be making some sort of jig to put on the headstock to guide the bit away from the headstock

very Manitoba-ish

making jigs is the craft;

i dont like mykas jig as much as i thought i did; but i use the same techniques as 'the jig' for making my neck templates for odd sizes.

i like the looks of this; my only thing i would want different is the 12 on top; personally because i play guitar way closer to my shoulders than my bass;

not to sound snooty; but thats waaay better!

is that the waterbased finish you were writng me about Dave?

it looks nice!!!

Flux is used to remove oxides from the soldered joint which allows the solder to flow. It is not for cleaning iron tips. You can use a damp sponge or a bronze scrub pad also sold for cleaning excess solder from the tip. A tip cleaner comes in a small tin about the size of a quarter and should be used sparingly. The sponge and bronze pad should be used constantly to remove excess solder and to keep the tip from darkening..

Its almost impossible to get wires attached to the back of a pot without flux. Soldering is trial and error and my techniques for guitar wiring certainly do not follow basic soldering guides but it works for me..

gotcha; thanks

but how are you applyig the flux?

as soon as the iron touches it, it goes in a puff; is there still enough on the tip to apply to the pot?

much appreciated, im only building off how i was originally taught

last one i checked was this:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...ic=42380&hli will have to wait till it gets back from the sprayer...

as stew-mac say as clear as mud

Gibson's standard 24-3/4" scale is a compensated length based on a true scale of about 24-9/16". Our fret spacing matches Gibson's most common spacing. Many Gibson's have other scale lengths

so there is always some room for debate on this

You might find a Junior has a standard scale length, I'm quite sure Epiphones do

Just to give you a bit more info, I first encountered this different scale length after I bought my first LP in 1977

I tried to do the intonation on the 1st string and found when I made it correct at the 12th fret it was progressively sharp up to the 22nd fret

Next time I was in the shop I brought this up and thats when it was explained to me that the Gibson has not just a different scale but a different method of fret spacing. One thing that didn't help, I was using 38 to 8 guage strings. I'm sure a set of 52 to 12s would intonate a lot better

So heres a suggestion

Instead of measuring each fret you could just set the intonation to be correct at the 12th fret, on the 1st string using a 9 or 10 guage string (with very low action, with a nice straight neck, with that teeny bit of relief)

Then if its correct at the 22nd fret, it is surely a standard scale

If it is sharp it is likely to be the special Gibson 24 3/4 scale

Regarding that quote from the stewmac website

I see it as just a way of side-stepping the issue because they don't want to get into complicated explanations

On the first guitar I took measurements from, the 12th fret was exactly half of 24 9/16" - not 'about' 24 9/16" and yet the spacings do not match what you get from the standard formula

Here are two clues

The Gibson 1st fret is closer to the nut than a standard 24 9/16" scale

The distance from 1st fret to 22nd fret is more than the standard 24 9/16" scale

Hey I forgot I had this. I was going to make a better diagram but who's got time...

Here is the difference between the standard 24 9/16 and SG scales (I also chucked in the standard 24 3/4)

It is very minimal but it is there

If you only had one or two frets out a tiny bit you would consider them to be outliers

But this diagram shows a consistent slight difference between scales

Anyway as you say there is always going to be debates, and thats because we are never going to hear official word from Gibson (unless they think it will improve sales!!!)

Prostheta

I can understand your frustration (lotsalaughs)

mmm fretless...it would take a lot of practice to put your fingers in the right place when playing chords. But you could aim at "just intonation" which sounds a lot nicer than the tempered system

this picture to me looks like a fanned fret layout;

well it was in fact a grounding issue to the back of the pot; thought it was good cause i checked it with another wire (every pot was checked and nothing changed) to common ground but i didnt have anything grounded to it; it was just sheilded; one way or the other i figured it was my fault, just trying to figure out what;

id say for the most part my soldering is 'up to par' tho my problem solving and understanding of electronics is very lacking; if i dont have a picture its not getting done any time soon;

i did want to ask you Spoke about the flux;

i have some kester flux and i use it basically to clean old crap off my tip; are you saying to apply it to the object i want to solder?

do i rub it on or stick my iron in there or do i just give a dip before each solder?

many thanks

grant