low end fuzz

take a trip to burlington;

Exotic woods has a lot of pearl and abalam; its not cheap , but very reasonable and its right there to inspect; not bad timber either!

can someone tell me the measure of the winding from the ball to the taper?

i cant wait for my strings to arrive to start designing the headstock; the scale is like 30.5 and i dont want to wrap any of the fat string on the post;

thanks so much; i cant find that type of info anywhere

btw i have la bellas flats coming

thanks again

I also use saran wrap...

since i heard you say that like a year ago; i tried t once and then everytime since!

that is such an awesome tip!; it keeps the rod snug (you can litterally press fit it w/o doing any damage cause that thin saran adds just a little past perfect fit) and keeps glue off of it and its threads; never thanked you for that one Wes!

ya thats cool!

i cant get the playboy bunny out of my head tho!

G-P-Bass aka Reese's Peanut Butter Bass

Roasted maple body w/ lacewood ''pickgaurd'' and center stripe

maple and mahogany neck with ebony board w/bocote accent under board

lacewood squares and backstrapping (sort of) of headstock

hipshot hardware

baselines pickups

volume/ tone 250 pots w/.05 cap

hand rubbed finish

m.o.p. and black sunburst pearl inlay

photos are the best i got; the colours are somewhat true; just not very clear

good to have you here!

if your going to take a class on building; dont fill your head with tooo much build info; let them teach you if thats what your paying for, take the time familliarizing yourself with the basic tools and proper use; after the class there will be many aspects which you feel can be improved or made easier/time saving; and its after you go thru someone elses process you have a clear idea of how you would like to continue; if that is in fact the goal;

lot of good info on this site;

good luck!

i did it way back on one of my first boards w/ face inlays ever; i thought it looked cool at the time; and it still looks alright? just ;like you said, a little awkward with the sizing; it was gold 'pearloid' inlays from ebay and for the extra piece i did a 12th fret inlay myself; they were all trapz which i used upside down.

if i can find a pic i'll post it so you can see what i mean.

worst case you can trace all the pieces with one of those tracing wheels to enlarge it; and they will be all the same porportions?

canadian tire's auto sectio is good for wet/dry high grit papers

and Royal city/mohawk products is one of our old suppliers from the cabinet shop

they got everyting from nitro to grain fill

maybe so; even more likely;

but if you took the fretboard off already (assuming you knew this pror) why did you not try flipping it over?

not having it in my hands its hard to say for sure, (especially since i dont know how comfortably it fits in the slot) but it would make sense to me to put the pressure driven side towards the problem as opose to right back where it was.

did you put it in upside down?

NO;

They're my ideas and you can't have them.

OMG! i was just looking for somewhere to put that exact statement!

hahaha great build tho

thanks guys;

the headstock has always been an achiles heel for me; especially when im trying to be original;

great builds; i wish the swede wasnt on there; that guitar is sick!!!

good build,

for the back; honestly i would throw a 1/8" top on there or somthing;

it would cover your glue line there and it would give you another chance at your cavity recess;

it all comes with trial and error and making the right templates and all; but you will end up being very unsatisfied with that when everything else comes out really nice.

even using a wide rebate (rabbett bit) in a router to outline the cavity itself is a lot more clean than freehand;

there is/was a DIY guitar website where one of the projects was a fretless bass made out of 1 slab of mahogony; he said he just wanted to try it;

i will look for that.

if you think your interested and have access to minimal tools needed to accomplish a strong effort; go for it;

you will prolly be dissapointed in your first attempt (or pleasently surprised) but once you start cutting and running into problems and all the other things that come with building....anything; you really start to relate to the information coming at you, and each project is an excersise in practicing your up to date common sense ;

everyone preaches the Hiscock book; and it was a staple in our class; but its not until you start cutting that you understand the importance of every. single. step.

i would vote for the rod adjust inside the pup cavity; besides that i beleive its logical thing to do; sg's neck pup is right against the board(1/4" away but ring is butted against) and thats part of the look; thats why i originally did it.

yep;i just crapped my pants!

that is gorgeous.

i did it on a sg where the pup was right against the fb;

i wouldnt do it again, but thats because i didnt like the pup right against the board;

personally i find the heel access waay better than having something else purtruding from the headstock;

taking out the pickup may be a pain ,but how often are you going to really have to adjust the rod if your in a relatlvely stable enviroment? maybe once a year? its definatly better than fender style, where you remove the neck, and have to completly re-assemble it hoping you cranked it enough.

is that a question; if so, sanding your board to like 220 before fretting; hamerr/glue in frets ,wipe as much excess as possible; dry scrape w/ razor and sand back frmo 180 to infinite.

thats how i did it with titebond; because thats how i was taught; also taught with a brass hammer; oh things change when your cut loose!

babies got back.

orgmorg;

i didnt even know if i was supposed to take you seriuos, but that site of yours is f'n awsome!

who is playing on that guitar track? you ?

sweet sweet sweet.

I looooove, to hammer in my frets!

i have a 2 sided rubber hammer one side is as hard as hard rubber gets; and the other side has a litle more bounce;

i use the hard side cause i can just smash those frets in and they wont be flattened or dented like my old brass hammer;

but this is a thread about glue so......... before i flush cut the ends i put a drip of super thin (hot stuff (lee valley)) down the tang on each side while the neck is turned on its side; and you can see the wood surrounding the fret absorbing it (easily scraped off w/ a razor btw)

and removing the frets are as easy as any other fret ive ever removed;

i always hit my freets w/ the soldering iron before i pull tho; not even when theyre hot ;i hold the tip to them for 4-5 secs.

and move on to the next until they all got some, then i start pulling; the theory behind it is the metal epanding just enough to break the sealed form its been in its entire existance.

this is a model design ive been screwing around with in one form or another for the past while;

ive used the body shape before, and i like the balance and the access; the embelishment this time around is the "cutaways'' on the front; the forearm side is meant to give a deeper contour for your arm, and the bottom one is for symnetry ; the headstock was to keep with the 'moon' theme (obviously 1/4 moon) that the entire shape kinda started with; its why i called it aluna; even though its not a word ,just kinda sounds like certain words that means moon; ha.

the top is some rosewood that my teacher gave me ,maybe 3-4 years ago; i think its indian?

alder body; maple/padauk/walnut neck, cocobolo fb.

hipshot hardware and baseline pups

thanks for looking

i kept a log journal in my facebook group (ya im that kinda nerd) wich is viewable to the public;

with progress pics and some other projects

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=33067106757&ref=mf

Aluna

an 'original' design ive been floating around with; the idea behind this one was to make a 'metalhead' guitar that would be classy enough to not look out of place at a rock show.

the tuners are frosted chrome which i planned on changing, i ordred the wrong ones, but theyre growing on me; so i got to decide wheather i like them, or if im just being lazy;

hipshot tuners

hipshot bridge

baselines jazz pups QPs

volume/volume/tone

schaller straplocks

Alder body w/some kinda rosewood Joe Lado gave me like 4 years ago; i dont know exactly what it is; probably an indian of some kind?

neck is maple walnut padauk w/ a cocobolo fingerboard