fyb
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Everything posted by fyb
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Thanks
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That was a useful answer. Thanks
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Bad idea or just no takers?
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Hey all! I was wondering what the consensus was on getting fellow forum members to do small tasks and what not. Is it usually a good or bad idea? So far I have only bought pre-radiused and slotted boards from Stewart MacDonald but a friend of mine just gave me a slab of rosewood that I'd like to use as a fretboard. He used to sell saw blades and knew the guys at the old Guild plant so the piece I got was a fretboard blank from them in the pre-Fender days. I'm not really ready (time, money, and the learning curve are always factors!) to do my own slotting and radiusing, so I was wondering if anyone was perhaps willing to do it, or to recommend someone who could do it (for a fee of course). All input is welcome. Thanks!
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I've never seen it used this way so I was wondering how well it'd work. What do you think?
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I have an acrylic Stew Mac neck pocket routing template whose outer edges work pretty well as a straight edge when I need to do straight lines with my router. I was wondering if anyone knew of something similar but longer, perhaps 3' or 4' long. It would need to be thick enough to use with a piloted router bit and very straight. What do you suggest?
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Thanks for the info! I'm going to look for some of those threads.
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It seems that alot of glue in necks use square-ish tenons. Do you think it's be a good idea to have the tenon follow the taper of the fretboard, so that it'd be shaped like a large parallelogram sort of like a large dovetail? It seems to me anyway that this could be stronger than a regular tenon.
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The guitar I'm working on is chambered sapele with a spruce top. Do you think it'd be a good idea to make the PU routes really deep too, essentially adding more chambers? I'm using humbuckers and mounting rings so attaching the pups won't be a problem. Will the extra depth have feedback issues? Thanks for the help!
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I was just wondering if a 1/2" diameter pattern bit will work OK with standard Fender neck pocket and humbucker routes, so do I need something smaller for inside the corners? Thanks!
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Anyone Have Experience With These Clamps?
fyb replied to fyb's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
What do you use for the 2x2 stock? -
I know Harbor Freight sells cheap stuff, but these looked like they might work pretty well for gluing up body blanks and laminating tops. What do you think? Has anyone used them? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=39146
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I can't get the search to look for P90 cause it's only 3 characters! I'm going to be putting P90s in a flat top guitar and I was wondering how deep should I make the route? Also, in Hiscock's book he shows some deeper areas in the route for the pole piece screws and wiring. How deep should this part be? Thanks for the help!
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Magnets are a great idea! I hadn't thought of that.
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You guys have been alot of help! I would like to do a solid wood cover for a rear control cavity. How thick do you think it should be to keep it pretty stable? Should I put more finish on the cover or even finish it on all sides to help with stability? Thanks!!!
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I already have a few quartersawn maple neck blanks, roughly 4"x30"x3/4". Would these be suitable for making a scarf-joined headstock or should you start with thicker material? I was also thinking about using sapele for the headstock if I could get away with it. What do you think?
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What kind of tape? Is it something you can get @ Home Depot or something? Is residue a problem?
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I'm working on a hollowed out sapele/spruce quasi-tele and I just about finished the template out of 1/2" MDF. I got the outer contours just they way I want them and I also routed out the areas that'll be the chambers. The part you see on the left is about 1/2" thick. I noticed that it has a little play in it and I'm worried that when I use my router the template will move too much. What can I do? Can i use double sided tape to secure it? Will the residue come off? Do you think that part @ 1/2" wide is strong enough to handle the router abutting it? Any help would be appreciated!
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I know that quilted maple for a neck is generally considered a no-no but I wonder how much of this is because it's a figure found in soft maple. I saw this piece of bubinga on ebay and I thought it'd make a killer neck, but I don't know if that's a good idea or not. With a wood as hard as bubinga, do you think you could get away with this as a neck? What about with carbon fiber rods in it? Here's the piece I was looking at.... I'm probably not going to try it any time soon, but that piece was a perfect size for a Fender style neck and it'd look sweet on the right guitar.
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A friend of mine asked me this the other day, and I really didn't know what to say. Is there a reason that rosewood boards are left unfinished? Do you think it'd be a bad idea to finish one? What about with an oil finish like TruOil? I've seen quite a few gunk-filled and discolored boards ... wouldn't a finish help this?
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What do you mean by a cutterhead lock? Also, like the Dewalt for the most part but no infeed/outfeed tables makes me a bit worried. My cheapo Ryobi can make the first and last 3" of most boards unusable with snipe but maybe there are other factors too. And the Dewalt's pricey but I know that the saying 'you get what you pay for' often holds true. Thanks for the help folks!
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I presently have a $200 Ryobi planer which I picked up about 6-8 months ago, and I think it's time to upgrade. It has no infeed/outfeed tables, I get a crazy about of snipe on longer boards and it makes alot of tearout on sapele and mahogany even with brand new blades I saw this planer recently at Woodcraft and it seemed like a heck of a deal for $400. it's got a 3 knife cutterhead, 2 speeds, and infeed/outfeed tables. Anyone have any experience with this or any other Steel City tools?
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Hey all! I tried searching for some info about hard ash, but I keep getting an error cause ash is only 3 letters! I have a bunch of hard ash that I got pretty cheap and want to make a semi-hollow out of it. I'm not sure of the top wood yet, but I was thinking that hollowing out the ash would make the weight manageable and maybe keep it from being too bright tonally. Also, do you know if the ash will take stain or dye pretty evenly? Thanks for the help!
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Well thanks for the input guys. It looks like sanding might be my best option but I don't know anyone with a big enough sander. I'll try to think of something! I'm thinking maybe getting something large and very flat (a piece of 3/4" melamine or something similar) and adhering sand paper to it ... then sanding that way just to keep everything nice and flat. We'll see
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I got some gorgeous ribbon striped sapele for a project I'm working on but I keep getting tear out and I just put new blades in my planer!! Most of the body blank came out fine but there is some noticable tearout in a few spots. I tried to get a pic but my camera couldn't really get it right Can I moisten the grain to raise it up some las if I were fixing a ding? Will sanding sealer cover it up some? What else can I do?? I can't find anyone locally (north central Connecticut) with a drum sander unfortunately. Thanks for the help.