TimS

Smaller radii are more comfortable for chording, larger radii allow higher bends before the string frets out.

Think of it as a complete circle; a circle with a smaller radius will be a smaller circle(obviously), so the surface will have a harder curve. Conversely, a circle with a larger radius will be bigger and have a more gradual surface curve.

I think I already know the answer to this, but do I really need to get the stew-mac router bits for the truss rod and CF rods, or can I get away with a 1/4" bit for the truss rod and something close for the CF?

Also, does the lmii double-action rod need a curved channel, or do all dual action rods lay in a straight channel?

Extra stability is never a bad thing. I wouldn't ever use graphite rods in place of a truss rod, though; only as extra support.

Current is what you get when you divide source voltage by a device's resistance. Since the resistance would stay constant, current would go up quite a bit when changing from a 9V battery to a 120V wall outlet. Naturally, a wall wart wouldn't transmit the full 120V, but if it lets through more than 9V, current will go up.

Too much current will overload the circuit, so it's important to get it worked out.

It was Fender who did the granite guitar.

As for nut improvements, there have been plenty - delrin, graphite, floyd rose, the LSR roller nut, earvana...you get the idea. Glass would improve sustain, but it's very brittle, and while it would probably work for a while, I think the vibration of the strings coupled with the tension it carries would eventually break it over time.

Also, if you dropped the guitar or knocked into anything with the neck, chances are it would shatter.

I agree with what was said above - most shredders had guitars built as "super strats".

I like a 25.5" scale, but I have long arms and big hands. If you're the one to be playing it, make it so it's comfortable for you.

should work fine. the fretboard doesn't carry very much string tension, so stability isn't critical.

i don't know what carvin sells.

It makes sense that the area actually carrying the string tension would provide the bulk of the tone. It all depends on how sensitive your ear is; to a lot of people, one guitar sounds just like the next, and there are people who can listen to a recording and tell you what kind of guitar the person used.

But to answer the question, I would tend to agree with you; a mahogany core with maple wings might sound similar to a les paul.

thanks for that info, helped me a bunch

Is there a website like that that has the body specifications? Like the thickness of the body, depths of back cavities, etc?

That site has the original blueprint for the JEM777.

http://www.jemsite.com/jem/origin/index.htm

All the way down at the bottom of the page.

The Wizard 2 is 43mm at the nut, 56mm at the 22nd fret. 19mm thick at the 1st fret, 21mm thick at the 12th fret. Follow the link for dimensions on all of Ibanez's necks.

http://www.jemsite.com/jem/necks.htm

I found a headstock template on wikipedia, of all places. It prints full-size, but you'll need Firefox to do it; I couldn't get it to work in IE.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Ibanez_...ock_pointed.svg

As for the neck, dimensions are given on jemsite. use those, and as long as you know your fret spacing, it should pretty much design itself.

What will titanium do to the sound? Well, for a given size and strength, Ti is lighter than steel. Less weight means less mass, and less mass means less sustain and, usually, thinner and tinnier tone. not really what I'd want in a sustain block.

Why do they sell them? Like someone said before - Marketing. "It's TITANIUM, man!"

The scale will stay the same. I may do 22 fret; I'll have to see what's around.

Thanks for the info.

I'll be making a new neck for my strat soon. Will I run into any problems replacing the current 21 fret neck with a 24 fret neck, as long as I keep the same scale length?

Mainly, I needed to generate some width; the body wings were a little too narrow. I also like the look of the 5 piece core. I just wish I weren't generating so much scrap.

fixed.

Alright, I've finally made some progress on my RG copy, and I've the pics to prove it! Let me know what you guys think.

First off, I laminated the neck and body core from Honduran mahogany and rock maple. I know, I should have used more clamps.

The core piece, planed and sanded. Baby approved.

http://static.flickr.com/83/270859865_bd1daa40fb.jpg

The body wings, also Honduran mahogany. They still need to be cleaned up, as I cut them with a jigsaw.

http://static.flickr.com/79/270859829_b14fae1de5.jpg

Body wings against the core piece, just to see how it's coming along. The scrap piece next to it was rubbed with teak oil to give an idea of how the finish will look.

http://static.flickr.com/89/270859851_0038b3f58e.jpg

I know the JEM monkey grip is drawn on, but I won't be cutting it out. I like the look of the guitar without it. I'm planning on black chrome hardware with EMG pickups, and I'm thinking about natural ebony binding on the body top for a nice accent to tie in with the ebony fretboard.

building my own neck-thru jem copy. I already got the width and thickness figures from jemsite, i just need to know how long to make it overall. Thanks for the info.

I need the overall lenth of the neck, length from heel to nut, and headstock angle of the JEM or 24 fret RG neck.

Better yet, if someone can trace it out and mail it to me, I'll send you a few bucks for your trouble.

Thanks.

I'll be making a new neck for my Squier strat sometime soon. you can have the old one if you're still looking when I get it finished.

still willing to part it out? I'd be interested in the bridge, nut, and string tree, but I don't need the tuners.

Sort out your playing before going on stage; you shouldn't have to slow down and concentrate on your part. Don't practice until you get it right, practice until you can't get it wrong.

Aside from that, just have fun. If you're that active on stage, don't eat before the show, and make sure you know a good masseuse.

You might wnt to email vwall guitars (thread at the top of this section) but I'm pretty certain that Ibanez doesn't sell it as a stand alone part only replacement for defective units

I did, and that's the answer he gave me; Ibanez "discontinued" it. Makes sense, since they've only ever been used on signature models, not regular production guitars.

oh well, back to the drawing board.

Does anyone have, or know where I can get, one of these? It's the double-locking fixed bridge used on the JS2000 and MTM1 signature models. I've been searching high and low, and can't find one anywhere. If you have one, or know someone who does, please let me know. Part number is 2GB1FLEB, if that helps.

Any info anyone has is appreciated.

I got two 21"x1.75" honduran boards, one 4" wide, the other 5.75", on ebay for $15.