Page_Master
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Posts posted by Page_Master
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hey ben
parts for fender style guitars are usually the easiest to obtain in australia. but in terms of parts, i have not really found anywhere in Brisbane that is worth looking at, unless you are really good at bargaining with people so you can get them at a decent prices.
pro audio is probably is the best for parts.
you should also try venue music in sydney. you can request a free catalogue that they will send straight to your letter box. they ship anywhere in australia [usually free delivery] and the prices are pretty decent too.
there is a place in brisbane that sells lots of parts, but i have not checked it out the actual shop yet. it is called Tym Guitars at the Woolangabba. http://www.tymguitars.com.au/tymhome.htm
i will send you a post when i have checked them out for real. most the **** the say they have on the net is not usually at the guitar shops anyway, like this place at the gold coast , Guitar World. http://www.guitar.com.au/
some of there **** is ok, still check em out though.
kinman pick ups are sold in a lot of brisbane guitar shops. they are amazing pick ups. pretty pricey though, about $400 for 3 strat single coils.
i think buying parts from catalogues is the best way to go. i have found cheaper parts in catalogues then any guitar shop i have been in. you should check out Rhoads site though. he quotes: "I HIGHLY RECOMMENED www.customshopparts.com for your pickups. I recieved the pickups within six days (stewmac took three weeks), shipped to Australia. "
good luck dude!
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hey man, no problem. that's what forums a for, so everyone can help each other out. just like a family. but not like my family.
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p.s. PG Forums does rock.
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hi
well benno, it would be a good idea if you told us where you are at, then i would give you a whole list of music shops in your state.
kinman only makes pick ups, very good strat and tele pick ups i may add. you can go to his website, it is pretty easy to find. buy them in australia, they are much cheaper. in fact he lives in Brisbane [where i live] i have been to his shop and i have met him. nice bloke.
rhoads site isn't going to help you much in terms of parts, may be if you spoke to him personally he could be of better help.
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hello everybody
would mixing MOP dust and epoxy to form a MOP glue, that you then scraped over some engraving with fine writing to form logos with fine letters work effectively? or would it look like **** and be a waste of time?
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good day/night people of PG Forum.
does anyone know anything about Ed Roman's 1500 G neck modification, or something that is equivalent? from what i know, it is a blend of oils and use of fine sand papers that apparently keeps the pores open but protected, maximizing tone. from what i have read on this topic, it/should sound/s good, and if possible, i would like to do something equivalent when i build my neck - i don't want no polyurethane finish neck. can anyone give me ideas or suggestions or fine tune the process on how to perform something that is equivalent of such a neck modification?
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hi
that's funny. everytime i look for tools at a pawn shop, they cost the same price as they are brand new. by all means, go to them, as you can sometimes get **** really cheap, or if you are stupid, really expensive. i went to one up the road, they had a ryobi router for AU$ 150, then i went to bunnings and the exact same model was there for the same price, brand spanking new. i have never went to a good pawn shop, they are all ****ing rip off pricks. so the next time you go to a pawn shop, make sure you know exactly what you are looking for: prices, models, makes of preferably the newest model of tools. now the guy behind the counter doesn't know **** about **** [i got a brand new Boss TU12 tuner for AU$ 35.] keep the RRP of items you want to get in mind, because you never know when the next time you do go to a pawn shop, and the stupid **** behind the counter puts are ridiculously low price on what you want, then you rip him off.
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i am making a six string - baritone: 46.5mm wide neck.
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hey man, where is ESP?
[ i voted Ibanez ]
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i want the elvis one!
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hey
i don't mind korean made guitars. well at least they build them better than japanese Jacksons. i think LTDs and Epiphones are above satisfactory. they don't compare to the real thing, but they are great for affordability. if you change the stock pick ups and shield the electronics, it should be sweet axe. ---> buy as many axes as you can when you go to Korea .
you can tell where production made Ibanez guitars are made by what pick ups are in them. guitars with infinity pick ups are korean made, but if they are V pick ups, it is made in japan. some korean made Ibanez guitars even have power sound pick ups.
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hey canack
i think McFeely's idea is the best way to go. i have a friend that bought a Boss BR532 and he just uses it as recording interface, then he transfers it on to PC where he mixes it in Sonar, i think that is stupid - stupid in the fact that he wasted about AU$1000 on the Boss 4 track that he doesn't even use to it's full capacity, and for the same price he could get better equipment for cheaper too.
he should have just bought a wicked sound card [e.g. Creative Audigy 2] that you can connect your axe to so you record straight on to your hard drive w/ Sonar. and a mic [e.g. Shure PG-58] same way as axe. he can't play drums so he uses a drum maching [e.g. FruityLoops] and the drums go straight into Sonar.
digital is the way of the future my friend, it covers all the following criterias: high quality, affordability, ultra fast access and production. <--- even the pros do it this way now. this should help man. i studied recording equipment 6 months ago.
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Dismember - Like an Everflowing Stream
Nevermore - Enemies of Reality
Zyklon - Aeon
Immortal - Pure Holocaust
Carcass - Necroticism
everyone should listen to more black and death metal. \m/
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hahahaha
an ESP logo would be nice. although i am pretty sure they are painted on the headstock, although these methods could pass and possibly look just like the real thing. another thing you might want to implement is the rectangle ESP inlay @ the 12th fret, if you go ahead with it. <-- it would definitely pass as the real mccoy then.
if you want to make an ESP logo, download this: http://www.espguitars.net/oversea/customor...r/orderform.pdf
ok now get the ESP logo at the top of the sheet and work with it in a drawing or cad program. just thoughts and idea. and don't forget to add the gold shadows of the logo .
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oi
would black stain look good on woods such as maple, bubinga, walnut and mahogany? lets just say a mild black stain, not too black but black enough. or is black a waste of time?
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hey mann
here is something to think about. [probably won't answer your question directly though, possibly indirectly] over the years companies such as Gibson and PRS have been quite slack with making neck joints, to cut costs i guess.
in general e.g. a Gibson LP made now and/or in the past 15 years will have a much larger heel than a Gibson LP from the 60's. it is funny, when Gibson re-issue such models, the implement the smaller heel.
another e.g. PRS guitars now/and have for the past 12 years - have a big ass heel. this has only been so since 1992. that why they are chunky where the neck meets the guitar. no PRS has a big ass heel before 92. now you know, if you are thinking about buying a PRS off someone, and they say it is a 87 model and it has that big ass heel, they are full of ****. the only excuse PRS had was "to improve sustain and strength" may be the real excuse is "we are cost cutting and it is easier to do"
i have read your question like 10 times now, and i am still having trouble comprehending it. perhaps you could draw us a pic of what you mean. [pictures tell a thousand words ] if your method was used in realilty, and it made the heel of a gibson bigger than what it already is, there is your answer.
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hi
as i have been through the tutorials at PG so many times, i have came across these dimension everytime. i hope it can help you.
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omfg. man, i can't believe you went out of you way to do that. wholly ****. it is exactly how i wanted it to be too. thank you so much Alex. you are the man!
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hello
i have abandonned this project altogether. with the amount of work it would take me to make one, i could make AU$60 at work. that's enough to buy 2. thanx for your help and thoughts anyway.
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hi
i know you have to use a gents saw to cut fret slots into a fretboard. i can say i have never physically seen a gents saw in my life. so where do you get them? and if it has another name, what is it called? i have seen mini hack saws at the hardware, if a gents saw is not available to me, couldn't i just use that?
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oops, i accidently put this question in the wrong topic, you can now find it in the Tools and Shop Talk section. or if you are too lazy, please click the link below: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...=ST&f=28&t=2809
Cheerz!
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hey
i want an RG body with 1 humbucker in the bridge w/ a tune-o-matic - strings thru- body bridge. i have a template of an RG, but i feel it is not accurate enough as i traced my friends on to cardboard. i can't wait untill you upload them.
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hey
my pops has a welder. he welds all kinds of ****. stainless, aluminium and mild steel, i can get welding done for free. i also know this other dude, a friend of my dads that has stainless threads and brass blocks and **** like that at his steel shop. i haven't got aroung to talking to him yet, but he could weld and supply me with everything. i am still experimenting at the moment, i plan on making 5 - so i can sell them . i am still thinking about if i should persist with this minor project, as Rhoads sent me an email about the prices of Hot Rods - sent to Aus. and now i have second thoughts. thanx guys.
if it is too much work for me, i will just buy the hot rod. as time = money
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screw on an allen nut (a metric one for convenience) should i put some epoxy in the nut and titely screw the nut on?
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hi
i was just checking out the StewMac Hot Rod Truss Rod. and if all it is is two long threads inside two blocks of brass either side, all parallel with each other and leave about 20 odd mm of one side of one thread pertruding and weld a nut at the end, couldn't you simply build one?
you know it would save me a lot money if i did build one. in Aus a double action truss rod cost about AU$40 or US$28. what a rip off. i could build one for about AU$5 or US$3.50. go figure
so i went to the hardware and i have seen long stainless steel threads, brass blocks and allen nuts - everything to build a truss rod. and even more it would be easier for me to do this as all the parts would be metric and not imperial like the Hot Rod dimensions and it's router bit. so what do you think people? should i build one? or go ahead and buy a hot rod?
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Scalloping
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
if you read the thread about 'what is your occupation?' and you read my post there, you will know exactly what i mean about that quote.
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