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thanx daveq, much appreciated.

hi everybody

can anyone help me with schematics for 2 humbuckers & 1 push/pull pot. well basically, the idea is to have minimum electronic components. so i want the pot to work as a master volume for both pickups, but when the pot is pushed down, the bridge humbucker is on, and when pot is pulled up the neck humbucker is on. so the push/pull on the pot is the pick up selector, yes! only a 2 way switch then. if anyone can help me or even draw the schematics up, it would be geatly appreciated.

in terms of Strat pickups, i like the Lace Sensory pickups. but in my opinion, i have heard better Strat pickups than Lace. these pickups are made by a man from my home town and he has quite a very good reputation. may i suggest people check out: Kinman Noiseless Single Coil Pickups. i have compared the Lace pickups on my uncles Jeff Beck with the Kinman pickups on his Jap Fender Strat, and i don't know, i just think the Kinman's sounded better.

nice guitar dude. i haven't seen a guitar with so many different kinds of wood put together for a body, well except for bass. it must have a very interesting sound.

speaking of african timbers, there is a good selection at my local wood shop. they are using these wood as alternatives to such woods as mahogany, oak, ash to name a few. here are the names of some african timbers at my local wood shop: Anegre, Iroko, Koto, Sapele and Utile. [bubinga is my favourite tone wood of all time, but due too lack of availability i can only get pieces suitable for necks and tops.] i am taking full advantage of African timbers because some of species that are available, their tone/s have not been unlocked yet - used in musical instruments. e.g. Bubinga is used a little bit on guitars, mainly basses. it is a really underated tone wood. their are still tone woods out there which we have not discovered yet. Experiment!

i am using a wood called sipo mahogany for the body of my first guitar project or as the trade name goes; Utile. the wood looks and weighs so much like brazilian mahogany, they only way i could tell it wasn't was by the the interlocked grains on the Utile. i know that Sapele is used on many guitars. Entandrophragma utile - Utile has the same genus as Sapele: Entandrophragma cylindricum. Utile is used as an alternative to brazilian mahogany, and cost about 1/4 of the price of brazilian too. it is a bonus too because all the pieces i have quarter cut and have quite fine grains - taken from virgin forest. so i am hoping i can get a good tone out of this species. well we'll have to wait for the finished product.

sorry for hijacking your thread John.

Derek stocks all the Floyd Rose hardware you need, plus he is a nice bloke and his prices are excellent.

hey Lex, do you play bass or are you purely a craftsman?

i am on chat right now, anyone is free to chat with me, infact i encourage anyone that is online to chat to me now.

i will be waiting for an hour, if no one shows up, off to beddie byes i go.

ahh, i think i am 6 hours late.

how do i chat with you dudes?

this is a common beginners question, i know i asked this question at one point in time. the truth is, it is expensive and a waste of wood. plus you would need some excellent solid wood to compensate for string tension. my personal opinion, i wouldn't even think about such a project.

Hotrock Posted on Feb 26 2004, 06:50 AM

  Someone I know slots his own nuts but doesn't use files. He's got some feeler guages and serated one edge of each one. You can put them together to form the right thickness and saw a slot in the nut.

yeah my uncle changed the parts on his jap fender fat strat to make it more like his Jeff Beck Custom Fender Strat. he put a wilkinson bridge, sperzel tuners, some high output pickups and a new nut on it. he used some kitchen knives and a razorblade to slot his nut. it is probably easier to file them with real nut slotting files, but i still think they are expensive. either way, you can slot your own nut with proper slotting files [expensive] or slot the nut using what is at your diposal [cheap] or you buy a pre-slotted nut. [lazy]

well there are quite a lot of places you can buy guitars nuts and nut files on the internet. however, i do not make my own nuts, simply because the files cost nearly or about $100 and since it is one of the last things you do when you build a guitar, wouldn't you want to just buy a pre-slotted nut, glue it on and start playing or take a while and file an unslotted nut? i only get pre-slotted nuts and i get my nuts from here: Graph Tech Guitar Labs they make preslotted [and unslotted nuts.] so all you have to do is get the right size and glue on and play. if you are looking for graphite nuts, take a look at the Trem-Nut. or if you are looking at bone like nuts, take look at Tusq nuts. i hope this helps.

The hard maple looked to be rougher cut and maybe as a result was actually a little dirtier. Who knows, I may have mixed the two up when I was looking at them  . At least I know what to ask for now. I will try and take pics of the two when I go back.

do not let the look of the wood determine which one to get, get the hard maple - and don't bother with soft maple for necks. better still, use a 3 piece laminate hard maple neck. it is stronger and looks more appealing. that is the same as my local wood shop, all the hard maple is cut really rough, and it does look really yucky. but by the time you plain it up, it will look beautiful.

my rig is pretty comical at the moment. i have a boss MT-2 and TU-12 through a Peavey Rage 158 - 15 watt. i have used the HM-2 before, but i much prefer the MT-2. it just sounds more brutal.

hi everybody

i want to purchase a guitar coffin case for my current electric guitar. but at the moment i am building a baritone guitar [27" scale] so when that is finished, i want to use the guitar coffin case for the baritone. but the problem is, my baritone is going to be about a total length of 41" long, so the baritone might be too long for the guitar coffin case and it may only fit a bass coffin case, which i don't want to get since it is so big. my baritone project is a custom RG body that is about 13" wide. but it is not the width of the case that is the problem here, it is the length of the case.

as the site does not have dimensions, i need to know if anyone on the forum has a guitar coffin case? if you do, or if you know someone that does, could you please measure the case inside and tell me if a 41" long baritone guitar could fit inside a guitar coffin case. there must be at least 3" of room above the headstock of the guitar when it is inside the guitar coffin case to fit a baritone. remember it needs to be a guitar coffin case, not a bass coffin case, a guitar coffin case! if my baritone does not fit a guitar coffin case, i will not get a bass coffin case, then i might have to look elsewhere. please me!

so have you ever finished a guitar/bass with these polymerized tung oil products Lex?

just adding to what John said. don't let the cons he mentioned for the neck-body connections scare you. these are all worst case scenarios. if you treat your axe right and be careful, you shouldn't have these problems.

anyway, my opinion on the neck constructions. my least favourite is set-neck. some set-neck have ugly heels like PRS and Gibsons Les Pauls and that's about all i don't like about them just another personal opinion, i think that vibration transfer wouldn't be that great with a set-neck because it is glued on - vibrations don;t transfer through glue well - but i have have heard very nice set-neck guitars before. bolt-ons are pretty good, i like thier unique bell tone. they are even better if the are like AANJ like on Ibanez RGs and Ss, i don't find the large Fender like bolt-on necks too appealing. and neck-thru, i would love to have a neck thru, i think they are cosmetically the best looking and theoratically would sound the best. not to mention they feel the best because you can make them heeless.

when the word "lacquered" is used in the music business, it usually means a nitrocellulose finish. well i read that somewhere, i just don't remember the exact quote. nitrocellulose was the first solvent based finish to be used on solid body guitars. the use of polyurethane on solid body guitars came a little later. either way, they are both good finishes with their pros and cons.

yup, that's what will happen if the gas tank explodes. just joking!

looks wicked LGM!

wow dude, that is really great news. i am really glad to hear you got her back.

i hope she is ok! after all that, i think you should give her name or something, like "Lucky" and then stamp that next to your name on the guitar.

that gut feeling of losing something is painfull, but when you find that something, it is the complete opposite, it is so glorious. it puts a new meaning to "finding a needle in a haystack" you must be so releived.

that's funny, i was just looking at that tutorial today. before it was even mentioned on this forum. well as they say. great minds think a like.

wow dude, the spalted maple piece looks so pretty. plus european alder and brazilian rosewood. that's going to make a beautiful axe, not to mention a beautiful tone and look.

Tezifon Posted on Feb 21 2004, 11:31 AM

  im doing it, basically i use balsa wood+ hard wood top + epoxy 

balsa wood? i would use a solid piece of hard wood.

StonesCreed Posted on Feb 22 2004, 03:29 PM

  Will two part epoxy take finish without a primer? I wanna use nitro translucent on one of my guitars, and there's a bit of a gap I need to fill.

Devon 

i was talking to brain about the process a few months back. after the block of wood has been added, smoothed down the primered up, you can still see the edge of the block that has been glued in. [by all means glue the block in with wood glue] he said the trick to making a smooth finish was to use the 2 part epoxy as a filler around the block. and yes, it must be primed again after that. the only down side with this process is that it cannot use a translucent finish, only a solid one.

i think you should take a look at Brian's tutorial on: Trem to Hard Tail Conversion. ok, sure the title has very little to do with want you want to do, but the process is almost congruent.

i have just been reading internet articles on violins. i don't plan to build one, well may be in the future, i am just interested in them. anyway, a few weeks ago i believe someone posted a topic saying it was an absurd wasy of judgind tone. contrary to this, i found this article: Science and the Stradivarius

and it says:

Build quality: how to make a good violin

So how do skilled violin makers optimize the tone of an instrument during the construction process? They begin by selecting a wood of the highest possible quality for the front and back plates, which they test by tapping with a hammer and judging how well it "rings".