nyck8

Can anyone tell me if it's fine to apply many coats of tung oil after I apply the stains and let them cure? The colors won't bleed will they?

In a nutshell, dyes seep into the wood while "stains" merely sit on top of the wood(at least compared to dyes). Dyes can yield a much deeper, richer appearence than stains if applied correctly.

I don't know about this statement. I know that dyes are very strong, but you can make the stain strong too. And it all depends on the amount of liquid you use in the body that you will get into the wood or not.

I use stewmacs stains and they go deep into the wood, especially the first dark one before the sand back.

Stew mac doesn't have the colors I want! Maybe I could mix them, but I don't know about that, I'd end up spending the price of 4 colors when I'm only using 3.

In a nutshell, dyes seep into the wood while "stains" merely sit on top of the wood(at least compared to dyes). Dyes can yield a much deeper, richer appearence than stains if applied correctly.

Well I've seen a few stained guitars and I like the way they came out. Can dyes be applied the same way as stains? What kind of dye do you suggest for my application? I need bright vivid colors :]

Also, which would be better for 'minimal' bleeding?

Test some of the Woodburst stain on a scrap piece before you buy all of it. I tested it once and the stain has nothing on dyes. I threw it out after one small test pass. Looks good for lincoln logs or toy wooden trains, but not my thing for guitars.

Peace,Rich

Did you apply more than one coats with the test? And there isn't a difference between dyes and stains is there?

why stains?

why not a laq or poly finish?

you want to see the wood right? just dye the finishes, and between each color, spray a clear coat. let it cure then do the next color(and tape the edges)

I dont see a way to avoid making a fuzzy line with stain..

I could be wrong, but thats what I would do.

I'm doing a stain because I don't have the equipment for a poly finish.

Well I have a basswood RG7321 en route. I really don't like the gloss black boring finish so I think I should make it into a little project. Two things I love: bright colors and a million tung oil finish layers followed by steel wool to smoothen it out. This is what I want to do. Excuse the very bad photoshop job.

I plan on angling the yellow up a little bit more so it's kinda like sunshine rays

Well here's the deal. I know where to get the colors I want, http://www.woodburst.com/Products.html

The dilemma I'm having is...Will the colors bleed over!?

I plan on just doing the top and leaving the sides and back natural(so far).

What I think I will do is mask off each section of color and stain them individually. How can I prevent bleedage?

I also plan on applying many coats of tung oil after the stains are applied. This is fine right?

I'm will be getting an 8 string built soon. It will have an all maple neck(28"), a single Lundgren m8 pickup, and a bolt on body. I have decided on maple for the bodywood. The whole body will be extra small and thin(1.25 inch). Maple isn't really the most pretty wood, so I decided to get some kind of top, but the body style will have a forearm contour, which will really ruin the top by being cut off. I have considered doing half the body maple, and the other top half a nice looking figured wood but still have good tonal characteristics and similar to maple. I've been looking for some nice looking tops, and I found this beautiful piece. It's Anigre:

Anyone know what anigre sounds like? Is there a way to just get a standard maple body and stil have the nice figured top regardless of the forearm controur(bend the top??)?

Does figured maple sound different from regular maple?