Desopolis

good stuff. i like delta and jet. make sure you wipe down the rust on that jointer with some wd 40 and some steel wool before you use it.

yeah I was wondering about that, same with some of the stains on the other stuff.. im curious though if I rub it could I throw off the level surface and make a low spot? Maybe I'm over analyzing..

and it all started just trying to find a decent bandsaw, and I couldn't let it all go...

So some $$$ headed my way after moving to my house.. Im starting to setup my shop and move my roommates junk out of the garage into the attic. (we got the house so I could have the shop)

Garage is linked to central air, insulated for AC and sound and has a window unit...

anyway, I went on craigslist and found a older gentleman who has been building rocking horses and smaller stuff.. But he had a decent shop.. Anyway, something happened 6-months ago with his shoulder so he decided to stop..

Got a Band Saw, Table Saw, Drill Press, Jointer, and palm sander.

Only a few years old...

Closed base 1HP 14" Jet(blue) band saw. 15"x15" steel base.

Decent size craftsman table saw, router table attachment and a decent fence

12" Delta Benchtop drill

Clraftsman 6" benchtop jointer.

not too many power tools to buy, alot of my stuff is still in Indianapolis..

im considering the hitachi.. or the sears router set on sale.

Its 99 for a soft start 2HP plunge/fix combo..

Here

i played with the Hitachi at lowes..

now that I type it all out..

I'll go ahead and get the sears..

im wondering about drills and runnout with the use of a drum sander... Im considering a Delta benchtop, and if I could use it as a spindle sander...

im blending the heel on the bass im building.. i extended the piece of wood for the heel from the body, then ill glue the neck into place and blend the neck out..

pretty good price IMO as well..

I like the African better in most cases though.. the ribbon grain looks awesome, compared to the flat grain of the genuine that I've seen(NOTE: based on what I have physically seen, not based on online stuff)

awesome!

I'm going to make sure I research it before I get to far,

my fear is that I'll mess up the top when removing the bridge, or that I wont get it back into the correct position in relation to the soundboard(MUCH less likely a issue, but still on my mind)

Its damn near impossible to get a cheap acoustic guitar thats left handed.

I recently came into possession of a decent old right handed Alverez that is missing the nut..

Oh noes.. I'm a luthier, I should know how to fix a nut..

but heres the the issue, the bridge saddles are adjusted in a different position for string intonation. Is there a easy solution for this? or is the only option to remove the bridge and replace it with a left handed one?

If thats the case I see myself just playing it as is for a while...

perhaps I could remove the saddle, fill it with some spare wood I have, and re route the slot for the saddle at a different angle..

opinions?

so you have been using it with the teeth pointed the wrong direction?!?! and it cut? im surprised it didn't get SUPER hot and snap...

yeah ***, I was like this dudes probably not even in school anymore.

im amazed the saw ever worked to cut metal. If what your describing is the teeth are upside down against the piece your trying to cut.

or are you saying the blade moves upward?

wheres musicmakers at? the only other shops in town that are decently large that I see are Bass Emporium and Strait Music now that Brook Mays went under.

go to a more local shop.. or find a decently run GC...

I love threads like this, totally helps in my decision making...

im not surprised to see this one skipped over by more common posters..

I will admit that different tops/bodies/necks/fingerboards can defiantly make a difference in overall tone.

But I highly doubt you will notice to much if there is 20 layers of different exotic wood compared to 4 to 3 etc.

Many, and I should say MOST lower cost factory guitars are multiple piece bodies, glued together in irregular off cuts.

Many Musicians swear by these guitars.

Many builders use different woods as laminates for visually artistic reasons more so then audible.

Will it make a difference? a little,

but after the rest of the body, the neck, fingerboard, all the hardware, the electronics, the cable, and then of course the amp itself, will it be all that noticeable?

I think if anything, a general density will play a larger part in any sound it POSSIBLY could make. IE Swamp ash and Mahogany and Maple and Ebony..

if your wondering because you have a whole rack of off cuts, go for it.. BIG D does it, and they look weird, but in the end OK.. and I bet they dont sound half bad.

But I wouldn't suggest purchasing the different layers in some hope for something spectacular.

kind of a weird place for this....

a Luthier's forum

its preference.. I dont float mine, I have it against the body for dives only...

When I've ever needed to sharpen the sound, I can usually feel a whole steps worth of notes and adjust..

now this method sounds like ass, but its a wammy bar... And the stuff I play never requires it...

Know what? I've been wanting to do this, or at least play a guitar with 48 frets, for a while. If anyone wanted to practice and get really skilled at it, I'd love to watch them play You could accompany a sitarist! It'd be cooler than whatever the Beatles did.

::EDIT::

I think you could get similar results, or at least have an easier time going about it, if you made a fretless guitar and marked all 48 frets. Much easier than trying to cram in a ton of fretwire onto the neck.

+1 to the edit, I was thinking the same thing while reading...

:popcorn:

EDIT: I guess PG doesnt have THAT smiley...

I only wanted to say that the guy only put the logo, it's ok that it's illegal, but he only put it for cosmethic.

I don't want to go offtopic on this thread, so i'm not going to right anything more.

sorry but thats actually a bass. but it still looks comfortable

Terrible fret access though.

that was my concern as well...

my favorite so far has been the Boss overdrive/distortion of mine..

I can tune it how crunchy I want it, and so far it has been the most versatile..

also, I am using a loop pedal, and the things it can do are AMAZING!

so..

a little work done..

I got the neck laminated up, and the body routed out..

still needs to be edge sanded, but the basic shape is there..

heres some pics:

I bolted the template to the blank in the neck pocket and in the bridge pickup position, I figure I'll route that area out eventually anyway..

neck lam and body

heres a pic of me and the body to show sizing, I dont think it will be that big of an issue.. I messed with alot of WEIRD basses at guitar center, and decided it would be ok..

if I need to convert to links I will, figured they wernt to big..

yep, thats exactly who im talking about.

There were I get my lumber at. Awesome place. When I bought my blank I asked about getting it planed there. He said they had what I needed and I'd just have to tell em..

I ended up lucking out and where I do my stuff had a 13" planer, and after trimming the edges to just about my shape, it made it through!

Also, the guy's shop I do my stuff at knows a cabinet shop who would probably be able to help you. if Fine cant help you, let me know..

your local lumber yard usually has a good selection..

Austin has 2!