Desopolis

Are your sketches reflecting flat or quartersawn wood?

Does it really matter?

regardless of the grain running perpendicular to the cut it will still run the length of the board.

I think the lines in the sketches are more for directional purposes then what the piece would actually look like.

Im sorry, I thought the Melvyn comments were referring to the thread starter, not PTU7

I know it was the #1 thing for me to get... and after Barns and Noble had run out of them and I had to get it from amazon, I knew I made a good decision...

truly a tool worth holding on to..

i think he meant, he doesn't have pics yet, because all he has is plans and of course the book..

chill out guys...

I think the razorback looks terrible.. but thats just my opinion..

theres probobly alot that differ in the two guitars, more then just the use of alder etc...

IMO Mahogany is a much better wood then alder all together, but for lightness Id suggest swamp ash..

Deep resonance, and super lite...

actually the hipshot A-style is adjustable, also it comes in different string spacing.

Hipshot style A Bass bridges are available in a wide variety of string spacing; in your choice of aluminum or brass. All style A bass bridges feature top load or thru the body stringing options.Type A saddles feature variable string spacing adjustment for even greater versatility and fine intonation adjustment as well.

http://www.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=...etail&p=126

I used .750" because the person I'm building for wanted a larger spacing. Also, my design is based upon the Rickenbacker so I used their nut width of 2"

Im designing a 5-string bass right now and my friend wants to use EMG active pickups.

from looking online it looks like you route out the cavity exactly the same size as the pickup itself, but I cant find anywhere how deep to route the cavity, the actual dimensions of the pickup, or how the pickup height is adjusted..

I dont think the screws go through the body but honestly I have no Idea.

EMG's spec sheet doesnt really help me..

also, because this will be my first time with active pickups, is it possible to use a blend pot in place of the pickup switch?

I figured someone here had some insight.

what size binding is that? I plan on doing a bass and that looks just about perfect

I have a design coming up that would have a translucent black back, but I dont know if I should plan on staining the wood, or simply grainfilling/sand sealer it, then dye a clear coat once over the top...

The wood is Mahogany, the finish will be Poly.

any pros and cons from those more experienced?

...do you ever have fretting problems?it said somewhere to make the slots slightly wider...but i don't see why that would be needed,since the fret tang compresses anyway...

you say you like the tonal benifits....it feels less "snappy" than ebony to me...could you explain your take on what it sounds like to me?

McMaster offers up jewelers blades that have an odd arbor, but a variety of kerf widths - I get my slots wide enough that the tangs grab and catch the ends with a bit of cyano just for peace of mind. I have never had my phenolic chip out but I have had it not accept fret wire.

It isn't quite as snappy as ebony, but it is awfully close. I like the notion that it was not packed out of an African forest unbeknownst to anyone...

As for bonding it to the neck, if the back surface is sanded to 150 Gorilla glue works well. I have had success with Titebond II and III as well.

what about standard titebond?

I wonder if you could make a Satin finish from it.. or perhapses even a solid color..

i love perry

wait, so someone from this board took them?!?!

I did, and I belive Wes also does.

just makes adjusting it different..

is that a short scale?

so the thin/black/wide/black/thin

is separate pieces?

yeah!! the walnut takes shape!!

did the inlays come in the plys like that? if not how did you space them?!?

I would call a local repair shop, they could probably direct you to a local luthier, as its pretty rare(at least in my case) to find one in the phone book.

also, I wonder if they count veneers into the lam strips. many necks use it as a ascetic thing..

I hope that neck works out.. IMO its a pretty harsh break..

and WOOT for indy! how are you liking the extra 2' of snow?

I just moved from there to Austin..

if you ever want to start building, Go to Northwest Lumber Co. Its off Lafayette, just north of 65.

By far the best prices on ANY exotics and there super helpfull.

They have kits for Acoustics to the right as you walk in, and precut slabs for Mahogany bodys on the left.

The curly maple is killer, but the quilt sucks..

Also, they have 1/4 ebony fretboards for $25(unslotted)

Everything else I got offline, not to much guitar making stuff local. but dont get raped at woodworks or the wood source.

I know at least one PG lurker that also lives in Indy..

anyway to see a pic of it used?

for real?!?!

whenever the grime becomes bothersome... you could leave it dirty.. forever...

why dont you simply find a head on shot of the guitar, find out the scale length, and draw it out..

it doesnt have to be the EXACT guitar shape...

my replacement tone and Vol pots were larger then the originals, so as long as they fit who cares. its not like your trying to make it all original.

as for the intonation, your tuner isnt really telling you what string as much as its telling you what note it is. Id assume its somthing like my qwik tune in function. with a simple set of red/green lights.

Id suggest get a better tuner, like a Korg CA-30 or similar.

let me also say this, when I adjust for intonation, I use open and the 12th fret, and again if its a 24 fret neck. I was told to assume that some of the frets wont be perfect, so as far as the 18th being the correct note I done know.

as far as the lefty thing goes, I dont see it being a large issue. Ive seen/played a few like that and never heard of it being a problem..