prauny

I have recently finished a project which i finished in tung-oil. I used a water soluble dye for it too. I had no problems with bleeding at all. I did make the precausion of leaving the body for a few days after dying before applying the tung-oil.

Heres a couple of pics for you to see.

http://www.metalwap.co.uk/uppy1/pics/pics/DCFC0035.JPG

http://www.metalwap.co.uk/uppy1/pics/pics/DSCN1714.JPG

And theres a good example of the difference in colour when using a flash and using natural light too....

[Mod edit... your pics were huge; I had to turn them into links.]

ITS SORTED!!!!!! I had soldered the hot and the ground to the wrong tabs on the output jack.... stupidio!!!

Thankyou so much!!!

yeah a wire from the tone to the volume is right.

the tip of the output jack is the part that looks like a claw solder the hot lead to that lug and the ground to the other.

it sounds like the bridge ground is missing if it gets louder when you touch the bridge

The bridge is grounded, i just checked that. Its soldered to the voloume pot like the other ground wires.

that wouldnt make it buzz..

do you have a common point in your guitar that you are soldering to ? (the back of a pot)

Solder all the grounds to the back of a pot and the wire from the bridge (so the strings are grounded) make sure the ground on the output jack is connected to the back of the pot.

http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/1899/wduhh3t1101wl8.jpg

Yes im using the back of the volume pot for the common ground spot. Ive also put a wire from the back of the tone put to the ground on the back of the volume pot, should i have done that?

To be honest, what i could do with is a diagram that spells out to me where each wire goes.

Sorry dude, i just noticed that diagram there, did you edit it to show me the ground?

is the right side of the input jack connected to ground. the tip of it should go to the guitar and the other connection should go to ground.

The output jack is connected to ground, and i think i used the right tab on it. When you say the 'tip' which part on the jack is that? Would it still work if i soldered the wires to the wrong tabs?

Hello all, my problem is this...

Ive followed this diagram to wire a Epipohone les paul special from scratch http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH3T1101 which all seems simple enough. Now i come to plug it into the amp and i have a very loud buzzing which can be turned down by completely turning off the treble on the guitar, but its still there. Obviously this will not do, so what can i have done wrong to cause this? Or what are the reasons for this? I grounded everything that it says to on the diagram so i dont know how it can be that, but when i touch the switch and the bridge it gets louder. Thanks for reading and please can you help? I would use the search, but i dont have time as i need this done in the next few hours...

... Its actually anything connected to the ground that makes it buzz louder.

Thanks for your quick replies dudes. The piece i have is from some old furniture so it was very dry before. Its about 3.5cm thick. I'll lay it on some of my other wood for a month or two. Im in no rush to use it, so it can have all the time it needs.

Its going to be used as a top(or two tops maybe) for a les paul style guitar. Im always finding wood thats being thrown out, but at this time of the year i have to get it quick before the elements get to it.

What can i seal the ends with though?

I have some sycamore/maple (not sure which) that has been exposed to rain for a few days. How would i best go about drying it?

It is currently in my bedroom which is a farely constant warmish temp, probably an average room temp. It is unheated, and dry. The wood is not soking, but there is slight dampness.

That does sound rather good dude. Not classic les paul sounds, but good never the less. Nice playing too.

I found a load of African mahogany thick enough for guitar bodies and some maple for tops and necks in a skip. Keep your eyes peeled for these things, they are all around just waiting to be found.

A headstock angle would make it a little more hard to bandsaw the neck, but the headstock is uncut now is it not? So he should be fine.

Ok, cheers doeringer. Will do

I was trying to say that it is a chip, but still has the black poly in it at the bottom. Thats what i meant by dent/chip. Sorry for the confusion.

Thing is, its under the picguard on my les paul copy, so its not urgent. But i preffer it without the picguard, so it would be nice to repair it.

Where can i get me some black poly? Ive only ever seen clear poly for sale. Bear in mind im in the UK here.

The black is still there. Its more of a dent/chip.

It is Polyurethane though, so i may just leave it if its not going to look nice once its done.

Ive seen that people recomend using CA glue as a drop fill on dented or chipped guitars. I would like to know if this would give good results on a solid coloured paint, say, solid black for example. Would it look like new, or is it just a patch job repair?

I would of thought that a glass nut would not be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the strings and snap. You could always give it a go though.

It held up power lines for years. I think it would work, modifying it would be the problem. As far as making them, a press mold could work (like how they make pyrex dishes).

Cool idea but I dont think it is practical.

They could be very pretty tho. Swirls and stuff like a marble.

We're talking something really thin here though dude. Where the slots will be, i think it would be weak spots. Especially under the thick E string.

I would of thought that a glass nut would not be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the strings and snap. You could always give it a go though.

Cheers dude. But why will it squeal?

The bridge looks slanted to me dude.

I have a matched pair of humbuckers with matt nickle plated covers. I want to use them on my les paul, but the les paul has all gold hardwhere. Would it be ok to swap the covers and pole pieces over from the gold pickups? The nickle ones are potted (waxed) so if there is anything special i should do, could you let me know.

Thanks

ok, just wondered thats all.

Will this trick work with a polyurethan finish too?

Maybe they do it by hand like they did in the old days. I did my Les Paul bass by hand. I used a stanly blade to cut the whole binding channel. Did'nt take that long either.

I removed the binding from a guitar by Jamming a blade between the binding and the guitar from the top, and working the blade around the guitar while pulling gently on the binding. It came of suprisingly easy. I did score around the edges of the binding first though.

This is just an idea, so please dont go ahead with it untill you have a few other answers. But maybe you could fill the crack with two part epoxy resin? Im asuming you wont be able to see the crack once its filled with it being very thin.