JohnRossitter

My friend want's to sell the following:

RYOBI 10” TABLE SAW BT3100

(NEW) OUT OF THE BOX, COMES

WITH INSTRUCTIONAL DVD

PRICE $150.00

SHOPMASTER

(ALMOST NEW)

10" BENCH-TOP DRILL PRESS

VARIABLE SPEED

PRICE: $80.00

If you are in the Arklatex area give him a call

318-458-6895

Thanks

Check out your local phone book and see if there are any local violin luthiers in your area.

They are out there...

as long as it wasnt a sofball bat...that would suck

Nice Score!

I bet that rust will come right off with a bit of elbow-grease.

I'm not saying that suppliers send out crap wood, just that when you have someone else pick wood out for you, you loose the benifit of looking at all of the options and selecting the best grain for what you are doing. Each blank of wood is different, and if you are looking for a certain thing, someone taking orders over the phone can only interpret that so far.

I have ordered lots of stuff online and over the phone.

Each time I got great woods.

But when I bother to fill the old gas tank and make the trip to Dallas and actually go to my favorite supplier I'm only happier because I get to look at the whole selection and mix and match various woods to my taste.

Beautiful build...keep it up

How is this for irony.

A guy I work with just ordered a tele neck from them on ebay.

They emailed him back and told him that they already sold that one and it would be 3 months before they could get him another made

I told him maybe it's for th best...try and get your money back.

Rich is right.

The only problem with ordering guitar woods is that most of the time you want to see and pick the wood with the best figuring.

You are not going to get that with a supplier, as they don't have your eye.

I have had great success with it.

Go to your local hardware store and buy colored weed-eater line.

Dont laugh

Dumpster Dive your local cabinet makers shop.

They work with lots of different types of woods, and scrap tons of it.

Actually I drive 3 hours each way to get my wood in Dallas.

So I usually call ahead and check on what kind of supply they have in stock.

Lucky for me I have friends and family in Dallas anyway, so I can always pop in for a visit as justification for going.

After eyeballing their necks I would probably avoid them.

It's hard to tell but it looks like there is not a uniform radius job on the frets.

As well the frets are beveled way too far into the neck, meaning when you play the neck the E strings will roll off of the neck.

If you can afford the loss go ahead and buy at your own risk, but if you are depending on this neck to be perfect and playable I would pass.

Just my opinion.

One thing I try to do that seems to help me keep things from getting too mysterious (hope that is a good word to use). Is be methodical.

1. Check the string nut clearance, and make sure the strings are seated properly

2. Check for worn, raised(not seating well) frets

3. Check the neck for straightness (A wisper of relief is fine, but I try to keep it pretty close)

4. Check the frets for level, and make sure not high spots are developing near the body/neck area

5. Set the action, and give it a test drive

If it is a new neck to me, and I have issues after the basics. I will look closer at the neck angle, but this is not something I have to play with very often. If it is an acoustic, the bridge is looked at between step 4 and 5 (which may lead me to looking closer at the neck angle, more of an older acoustic thing than with solid bods).

If you start in the middle (making adjustments to truss, shimming the neck) you really can't tell where you are at.

Peace,Rich

This can be a total no-brainer but it's easy to overlook.

Make sure you are using new strings too.

There is nothing more frustraiting than spending hours adjusting the buzz out of a neck only to find out that the strings themself are bent or warped.

Good luck with it.

Hello all! I've been lurking around project guitar for a good while and I'm of the opinion this is the best place on the net for guitar building and customizing.

Anyway, I've been planning on doing a custom guitar, and I'll need a lot of help planning it out. I'm not sure I have the skills or tools required to make a custom body out of blank pieces of wood, so I was curious to wonder if there's any place where I can buy like a "blank" guitar body to work with.

I'm heavily inspired by Muse and Matt Bellamy, which gave me a few of the ideas for this guitar. I'd like to wire in a fuzz pedal and sustainer such as Bellamy has on his custom guitars. I'd like to include a Kaoss pad as well, but that's probably way too complicated for me to do. Right now I don't have the funds for this project yet, but help planning it out and locating the supplies would be invaluable.

check out stewmac.com

No the sound is not the same.

Think about the fact that the more pickups that you have, the more electromagnatic current you will capture.

So, a rear pickup capturing it's frequency range and a front pickup capturing it's frequency range are 2 different sounds.

A "middle" pickup will capture a completely different frequency range than either front or rear.

To a trained ear, there is a big difference.

All that being said, there is nothing wrong with a single pickup guitar.

You just will have a limited frequency range.

OK, So here is the scoop.

I tried to make a modified version of the tool that was liked here in this thread.

I would have worked in theory, but my idea of using plastic instead of MDF failed. I prooved to be way too flexible.

Oh well.

I trying something else tonight, if it works out (and I think this one will), I will post some pics and an explaination.

Sounds like a great idea.

If you tell where you live, there may even be some of us in the local area who could come in and talk.

Greenbrier East High School in Lewisburg, West Virginia

He told us in the first post.

Ahh,

My powers of observation are stunning!

We can't wait to see it.

Man it's going to have an interesting sound...

If you're doing a 7 piece laminate neck that includes purpleheart in it there's no reason to put in more than one truss rod and no carbon fiber rods in it. Odds are your neck will be too stiff for the truss rod in the first place. So the two truss rods would actually be more for ease of adjusting the neck than to keep it straight. It'll stay straight on its own.

The neck won't twist because of that one extra string either unless the wood was crap in the first place. Having an assymetric neck won't make a difference either.

Don't discount the power of humidity.

I have a 5 part laminate neck with purpleheart and truss rod which needs adjustment twice a year when the seasons chenge.

Sounds like a great idea.

If you tell where you live, there may even be some of us in the local area who could come in and talk.

Use 2 truss rods.

There are may-a-walk-thu in the in progress section

Looks great.

Also looks like you know what you are doing

Keep it up

Geez.. Never thought about this one. Not a bad idea. Well then, you made me change my mind again! I'm still confused about the truss rod thing. I would be much less complicated without one.. No need to route the channel from the back and glue a damn stripe. Argggh! Need to think about it longer I think...

Regarding the truss rod. The way I think about it. Wood does change dimensionally with humidity (just a fact of life we live with). If you use a truss rod you have an opportunity to make minor adjustments to keep a neck in check with the tight tolerances we expect. If you add a material that is not subject to dimensional changes (or much less subject to), such as carbon fiber, steel, aluminum or what have you. You can control or limit that variance enough to keep things in check with those tight tolerances. You can work in some features (shaping your fretboard, build in relief, etc...) to give you more breathing room, but again if things go beyond tolerance your in trouble. I have had a graphite neck on a bass for years, no truss (although neck angle is adjusted with a set screw) and have never had issues. Mind you the neck is heavily reinforced and wrapped in carbon fiber around rock maple, composite FB. That neck still develops a slight bit of relief under tension, but it luckily is just right with the gauge strings I like. No truss requires a lot of thought, and design considerations. Ebony, although strong, is not going to remove the potential issues. So if you go without a truss, you are taking a path less traveled, it will be more difficult, and will have risks you will need to control.

If it were me, I would be inclined to resaw off a fretboard, add a tasteful lam if you need to develop additional thickness, and drop a nice double acting truss rod in that baby.

Peace,Rich

This is starting to sound like good advice.

OK I misunderstood.

When you said you wanted to do a single peice neck, I thought that the stock you had was think enough for you to do a cutout headstock on the bandsaw. In that case I would have avoided the truss rod, because I don't think that it would have made any adjustments, but now I see that you have a much thinner stock to work with, so yeah I would use one, and I would use a dual action at that.

One thing you can do to hide the glue at the scarf joint is to use a high contrast accent wood shim between your ebony.

Something like 1/16" maple or bloodwood.

It's a beautiful board man!

John,

You lost me? Scarfed headstock or not would make little difference in the effectiveness of a truss rod? Accenting or enphasising joints with contrasting wood does look cool though

Peace,Rich

I may have lost myself on that one.

I had to think it over and I guess scarf or not, would not make that big of a difference.

First of all, my condolences.

I have been there for cracking fingerboards beyond repair.

I would say go ahead and glue it and see if it will take the fret job.

If so great, if not I guess you have to remove it from the neck and do another.

At any rate, I would not hide the fact from the customer.

Maybe call and tell them about the situation and ask their opinion.