wyldbil

Hiya Dani-

This suggestion is totally out of left field, BUT, does the guitar in your head look anything like the guitar at the other end of this link?

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/g=home...ase_pid/515207/

Be sure and look at a blowup of the pic. You could upgrade electronics, hardware, etc., and STILL come out way cheap on this one.

FWIW, I have the Black & Decker clone-of-a-Dremel and it has been (so far) trouble-free and awesome for the last four years. The actual Dremel bits will fit, it has adjustable speed and only cost $25US at a Dremel factory outlet. Just a thought.

Ya, Cheap Trick is a band. Their guitarist, Rick Nielsen, is kind of known for his checkerboard stuff including several c-board custom Hamers.

GREAT job- I am chartreuse with envy! Coolest Tele EVER...

KRYLON? JEEEbus! You are a miracle man with a spray can. Gives me hope for MY projects!

PS- Where can I get "Perfect It II"? GOTTA have it!

Cool guitar, but I think you should have had a different headstock shape. (JUST an opinion...)

I have five words for you: Paul Revere And The Raiders! If you don't get that, do a little research and you'll figure it out really quick.

I see what they are pointing out about neck angle & all, BUT, that just makes your guitar UNIQUE! That's a good thing in my book.

That is a super clean piece of work. I really dig the color. You should be proud.

DAMN proud.

That guitar is BEAUTIFUL. I think yours looks better than Hetfield's.

Keep up the great work!

kevan-

Talked to Schaller directly. I don't know the conversion rate, but they will sell them direct at 9.86euros each. The catch? Minimum purchase 100. If anyone wants to set up a group purchase, PLEASE let me know!

Kevan-

These folks seem to have them:

http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/ttwp42.html

I just wrote to see if they might do you and me a bulk order for them. (fingers crossed) 35 bucks... HUMPH!

No offense, but there is one on eBay currently with nine hours left still well under $200 and new, they were just under $300 at GuiTarget. Again, no offense. I just think you may be a bit optimistic about the value of your guitar.

I would not recommend Gorilla Glue for any connection you may want to undo later, like neck joint, fingerboard, etc.

Now for building up multi-piece bodies or necks it's aces. Once it's glued, it's GLUED.

I use it for headstock grafts. I have done some headstocks others said were irrepairable. They are still holding after (variously) 1-3 years of hard use.

Using GG, you have to be DAMN sure the pieces of wood are exactly where you want them and clamped TIGHT so the expansion goes OUT and does not spread the wood back apart.

Embargo?!?!?! Whatchoo talkin' 'bout Willis? Is there more to the new rarity of these than I know?

I see a Schaller Sure Claw in the pic. HOW MUCH$$$?

Just heard back from AllParts. I knew their prices to be usurious, but JEEBUS! They want $35 a pop to SPO Sure Claws. I only paid StewMac $22, but they carry them no longer. Kevan- think we can do better?

Sorry folks- my source just crapped out.  I thought they were sending me a SureClaw.  Instead, I got something kinda like an Ibanez Backstop, apparently made by Schaller. 

If I do find a source here in the US, I'll let ya know.

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Please do Kevan. If I locate them, the reverse applies. AllParts has offered to get them on a special order basis with about an eight week turnaround. I may end up taking that deal. If we do it, shall I work out maybe a group order with you?

No offense...

Betcha somebody will snap it right up if you post a PRICE for it!

I am looking for a Sure Claw as well. Actually, I could use a couple. Those things are a Floyd user's best friend IMHO.

As long as they are operable, condition is unimportant here as well. In fact, prefer used due to T-I-G-H-T budget...

Help? Anyone?

You can actually get the Duplicolor version in the auto department of your friendly neighborhood WalMart. (ugh)

I saw it there and have been strongly considering it for my current project.

She's lookin' good slayer! Keep those updates a-comin'!

So, somebody tell me about Deft clear nitro. Where do I get it and what is it originally sold to be used for?

Not knowing anything about that, let me throw this in anyway-

StewMac sells clear (and black) rattlecan nitro for about 1/2-1/3 of what ReRanch sells it for. I have had great success using the black and clear StewMac nitro on some of my projects.

Man oh man, I wish StewMac had trans cherry nitro as well!

I hate paying the ReRanch price for that stuff.

1) LOVE that color.

2)Looks like you did a really good paint job in the cool color.

3)WAY TO GO!

Looks RIGHTEOUS!

I am working on a project where the graphics will require similar masking to what you did. What material (tape? adhesive vinyl?) did you use to do the actual masking? May I aPM you a bunch of questions over the next few days?

Keep up the GREAT work!

Glad you solved your problem.

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Well, not quite solved. I would really like something hotter (like DiMarzio X2N or Super Distortion) for this particular project. BUT, the Gibsons were donated (aka: GRATIS!) by a fellow Hamer enthusiast, so the price was right for a pair of high quality pickups.

Rock on, Loveraft!

I really don't mean to sound ignorant, but what difference does it make? 

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There are three distinct models ofthe BBucker-

#1= slightly underwound (lower output)

#2= wound to the "average" late 50s PAF (average output)

#3= slightly overwound (hotter output)

As you can see, these specs make a big difference as to where the optimal positioning of each pickup would be, ie, given two different levels of "hotness", the hotter by the bridge, the less hot by the neck.

Makes a BIG difference, especially since I prefer to use a hotter pickup in all applications.

As it turns out, the two I have are stilll in their mounting rings, one clearly neck, one bridge. The person I inherited them from assures me the neck is a #1 and the bridge a #2 which makes perfect sense.

Problem solved!

If the "hotter by the bridge, milder by the neck" principle still does not make sense to you, go to the DiMarzio website where they explain it in more technical terms yet very clear.

Hi all-

I just inherited a pair of Gibson Burstbuckers, and can't find any markings to tell, so I wonder...

How does one tell whether they are Burstbuckers #1, #2 or #3?

Thanks!