Bygde

My vote is on the 3+3.

Your builds are SICK!

I have all the parts in front of me. I like to plan out the whole guitar before doing any woodwork, and I want to visually see that it all comes together instead of guessing.

I'm an Ibanez guy! Thin necks, and I like a little flat area as well. Although, for my Explorer-build, I did carve the neck like 1mm or so thicker than regular Ibanez necks. Sometimes my hand hurts a little when I play my Ibby.

I picked Other Extreme Metal, since I'm really getting into Meshuggah right now, but I listen to a lot of music, and Dream Theater is one band that doesn't fit in to Extreme Metal IMO

I drink about 2 per week, if I take an average over a month. I don't drink every week, but when I do, a 1.5L bottle disappears pretty fast! Also I hate diet soda, well at least Coke. Coke Zero exceeded my expectations though, it was a lot better than I imagined!

Nice! Must have been pretty hard to do those inlays. Did you use a Dremel, or did you chisel them out?

As I've said a million times before, I really like your work! Good to see that you found your way from Sevenstring.org to this forum as well

I REALLY like the bodyshape! Traditional, yet weird. The top looked really beautiful as well!

There's a lot of sites on the net covering this, try Google. This diagram will probably work great http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH3T2202

Grounding to the bridge is the common way of doing it. Just put a small cable from the bridge to the back of a pot.

Nice work! Sure is an odd shape. I wonder though, how is the fret access on this thing? Doesn't look that good actually...

Sorry to hear that, especially around christmas. My grandma has had colon cancer, but after the operation she has suffered from complications. Basically she visits the hospital at least once a month due to that, and I fear she hasn't got time on her side. I'm preparing for the worst, but as you probably know, you are NEVER ready for a loss like this. When the day comes, I'll just have to think of all the good times we've had, and that's what you need to do regarding your grandma.

That thing is awesome! It's got that Iceman sexyness to it, and I really like the carve on the top.

I really dislike Teles, but I do know a beautiful guitar when I see one, so if I'm judging from woods and the overall quality impression (couldn't find a better word!), this is a stunningly beautiful guitar! Nice work!

That shape is WEIRD! But I love it! That shape should make a cool bass as well

That was a pretty good example of your last post. No matter how careful we are, we always take a big risk while working with powertools (normal tools also of course), and things can happen extremely fast. I don't doubt that you know how to use powertools properly, but it just takes that split-second to hit a powerswitch or something to get yourself really hurt. Fortunately you only seem to have a little damage. I heard of a guy once who worked in a woodshop. A friend of his had just used the jointer, but the blades were still spinning (power off). Then guy nr1 came and sat down on the jointer, because he thought that the machine wasn't spinning. Needless to say, he took a whole cheek off. I'm not really afraid of powertools, but I have a great respect for them, especially jointers, tablesaws, bandsaws, and routers.

Don't know if someone thought about this, but how will the neck angle work? Does the guitar have an angle?

If thinking of adding a switch, a lead or override switch can be really useful. Rig a switch to over ride the selector and the volume and tone controls and route the pickup direct to the output jack...this avoids any dampening effects from the pots and the tone control. This can be useful as an instant switch to full on and say the bridge pickup and back to the rhythm sound as per the selector and volume and tone controls...and provides for a strong signal with no dampening and more treble.

There's a vid by Guitar World where they show EXACTLY what you're talking about

And I think that's a great idea too. Gotta try that on a guitar some day.

This seems like a great system, and personally I think it's worth the money to save fingers. Especially for people like us, who build and play instruments. If a furniture maker cuts a finger off on a table saw, he can still sit on a chair he made. If we lose a finger or more, we may not be able to use our creations at all. If I had the money, I would buy one of those saws in a heartbeat.

So this turned out to be a much smaller project than I first thought. I haven't decided how I want to do with the holes, but now it's playable. I had to rout out a little piece for the bridge do slip in, and I drilled out the neck mounting holes, since the screws threaded both in the body and the neck. Also I found out that it's not pine plywood that I first thought. It has a darker colour, and a different grain compared to pine. The colour is more like walnut (although I seriously doubt it is), and the grain is mahogany-ish. Either way, here's the pics of the (maybe) finished work:

Routing to the right of the right bushing. Original routing was quite bad, so I didn't take too long to do it

Fitting the bushings

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010696.jpg

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010697.jpg

Testfitting

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010698.jpg

Finished! As you can see, the coiltap is positioned between the tone pots

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010702.jpg

The trem performs great, and tuning stability is pretty good, even with new strings, and a badly filed bone nut (not my work). The nut will be replaced with a graphite one as soon as I can file them myself. Just a tip though, the block on the trem is pretty long, so make sure the body is thick enough. I set the baseplate pretty high of the body (enough to do pretty high pull-ups), and the springs is pushing ever so slightly on the cavity cover on the back. Otherwise, the setup was so easy it should be illegal. Highly recommended!

For my birthday some time ago, I got a guitar that had belonged to my deceased uncle. It's a Levin el-cheapo Stratocaster, with a maple neck, rosewood fingerboard, and a plywood body, and a couple of months ago, I decided that instead of having a guitar that sees little use (due to singlecoils and crappy trem), I thought I'd do something about it.

I bought a Dimarzio Fast Track 2 from Tradera (E-bay basically), and I bought a Wilkinson VS-100 tremolo a week ago. I've partially soldered in the pickup, together with a coiltap (will upload pics later), also the work on the tremolo has been started by plugging 2 of the 6 holes from the old trem (for drilling purposes), and I've marked out where the holes are going. Since the old unit was a 6-bolt, 4 bolts will be clearly visible. I am not refinishing this guitar, so I need an alternative method, and the two that comes to mind are:

- Filling the holes, and paint just that area black

- Taking a piece of stainless steel and make a sort of cover for the holes. Nothing flashy, just enough to cover the holes and look ok

Now for the pics:

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010687.jpg

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010692.jpg

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk281/Bygde/P1010690.jpg

Beautiful guitar, and the tone was brutal!

Awesome guitars this month! The Ormsby 8 and the Tri-Caster were neck and neck, but I ended up voting for the Tri-Caster. I really love the shape, color, and the overall look of it.

Awesome work as always!

I don't know how other people do this, but I prefer to drill (yes, you have to drill) the body first, then clamping the neck in position. Then I use a drill with roughly the same diameter as the core of the screw, and just drill carefully into the neck. Take care not to drill through the fingerboard. Measure 8gazillion times, drill 4 (depending on how many bolts of course ). The drill for the holes in body should be larger than the screw so that the screw only threads in the neck.