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FlashJim

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Posts posted by FlashJim

  1. My wife wanted to do something in the garage with me, so I sent her to a scrollsaw class at Woodcraft. She loved it. She also ended up wanting the same scrollsaw they had. Now she owns the most expensive piece of equipment in my garage, a Dewalt DW788. It's a really nice mid-priced scrollsaw. You can find them on Craigslist as cheap as $150 if you are patient. I wasn't and I paid retail, but she's happy and I can get back to buying tools for myself.

  2. My eyes went straight past the clamps to the wall behind them hahahaha. My wife would straight murder me :D.

    But thats a good idea, I just have all my clamps stuck down on a wall :D

    LOL ... yeah, my garage is a little different than most. B) My wife actually helped me paint it.

  3. I've gotten into building speakers so I decided to get myself a few clamps. Amazon had a great sale on Jet parallel clamps about a month ago and I bought a few. That's when I realized I had no place to put them. My older Rockler pipe clamps were "stored" on the garage floor. The solution was a wall mounted clamp rack made from scrap plywood and 1x4 pine. A dozen gussets, paint and a few lag screws later, I have this hanging on my garage wall. Now I need something for all of my smaller clamps.

    ClampRack.jpg

  4. I just got the Craftsman 10 in. Band Saw. Last night when I looked online it was $99.99 and went in today and that eneded yesterday, just my luck . Well I got it anyways, looks to be a nice saw. I didnt like the plastic on the Ryobi and Delta $99 ones so I went ahead with this one for $50 more.

    Craftsman 10 in Band Saw

    So now I can get started on my build. I have all the wood ready to start.

    You're going to like that bandsaw. I was wondering if anyone here was going to snag one. $99 would have been killer, but even $149 is good for that saw.

    I posted about replacing the guide bearings on it's big brother, the 22401. It's MUCH nicer now.

    Craftsman 22401 guide bearing replacement.

  5. I do wonder if the thrust bearing not having a guide slot will effect perfomance.

    The OE bearing didn't have a slot.

    I am not sure how much more expensive Carters replacement bearings would be vs skateboard(Carter sells them for about $2.50, Thrust w/slot is a bit more)

    Actually, Carter sells the replacement bearings for their 2300 series for $8.25 each. Part # BRG-38

    Carter Parts List for 2300 series conversion kit

  6. brilliant, thanks for the tutorial. I don't have that saw but I guess that the bearings are usually the same size? seems like a worthwhile upgrade & looks funky too! :D

    [EDIT] you can get various makes of skateboard bearings, I'd guess that they're of equal or better quality then those used on bandsaw's as they have to put up with a lot of constant pressure...especially from pro-skaters.

    Yep, standard size:

    Bore: 8mm

    Diameter: 22mm

    Width: 7mm

    The bearings I used were 608-2RS ABEC7. I have 4 extras, so I'll probably tear one apart to compare them to the originals.

    The originals have a stamped metal seal. That's the weak point of these bearings. All would be fine if they did their job ... seal. :D The thrust bearing actually saw action and spun the seal off on the first time the blade touched it. It's a common problem with this model saw. Luckily I know a few dozen people that own the same saw and I planned ahead. I bought the new bearings before I bought the saw.

  7. I recently bought the Sears Craftsman 22401 14" Bandsaw. I love the saw, but had a problem. If you haven't replaced your guide bearings yet, be prepared to. I had a grand total of maybe 10 minutes on my new 22401 when it started slinging grease.

    I hope this helps someone.

    Metal seal completely gone

    guide1.jpg

    Use the 22401's included hex wrench for removal

    guide2.jpg

    Everything will be reused except for the bearing itself

    guide3.jpg

    The biggest lump of grease left by the bearings

    guide4.jpg

    All of the bearings are removed in the same fashion

    guide5.jpg

    guide6.jpg

    The tube of 10 new bearings were bought on Ebay.

    guide7.jpg

    Reuse the hardware including the sleeve

    guide8.jpg

    Reassemble in reverse order

    guide9.jpg

    guide10.jpg

    All I have to do is replace the bottom bearings and I'll be done!

  8. You know--I rather like the tone of poplar, maybe even better than alder. It's got a nice, midrangy rock sound to it. It's not the prettiest looking wood and that, I think, is why it's cheaper rather than it being strictly inferior as a tonewood.

    Poplar can be pretty too. Not all of it has the green tint that is associated with it. I've seen some Craftsman style furniture built with it and it looked great. Still, most consider it paint grade.

  9. I'm considering making a new body for my 9 year old son's Washburn BT Mini. It's a 22 3/4" scale from the late 90's and I believe was made in Korea. It came with a maple/rosewood neck, Grover tuners and two K-10 humbuckers. The one we have was before they switched over to a Chinese version and dropped the Grovers. The old BTM as well as it's replacement, the X5, have plywood bodies.

    As it sits today, it has a new set of Grover locking 18:1 Rotomatics and a new top loading bridge. My son wants it painted flat black so the wheels started turning in my head. I'm thinking about doing everything new except for the neck and tuners.

    My question is, if it was your project, what pickups, wood, and hardware would you use? I'm thinking Alder since it'll be painted. I'll be keeping the Rotomatics.

    Any comments would be welcome.

  10. I used to have them on my guitar, the part with the hole on it actually rotates around until it lines up with another whole behind it, that's where the string goes through. Just rotate that little metal area above the nut securing it to the headstock and the holes should line up, then they just work like regular tuners.

    The 402 don't have a hole at all. That's where my confusion came from. I came across the instructions for the ones with holes.

    Basically I came up with:

    1. Run the string around the thumbscrew, between the spacers.

    2. Tighten the thumbscrew to lock the string in place.

    3. Clip string.

    4. Tune.

  11. I thought I'd go ahead and install one to see what it looked like. I have the wire between the small and large spacer. I tightened the thumbscrew and tuned the string.

    It seems that is the way these work. There's no hole to run the string through.

    I'll contact Grover to see if they can point me in the right direction.

    Look right? All comments welcome.

    grover402c.jpg

    Huh, the instructions are right there, in the picture. You'd think they could at least stand the page up., :D

    Anyway, theres mention of them here. , in one of the reviews. Just hit "edit" in your toolbar, click, "Find on this page", type "Grover".

    Thanks! I'll check that out. You posted while I was typing mine last post. B)

    I'm glad I found that pic of the instructions. At least I know I have everything put together correctly. :D

  12. Hi all,

    Big time newb here.

    I snagged a set of Grover 18:1 Locking Rotomatics tuners (402C) off ebay and they seem to be complete except for the instructions.

    Grover doesn't seem to have any archived instructions. Uh, how do you string them? I've been searching on the Net for an hour and haven't come up with anything. :D

    This is the same model:

    Grover-lock.jpg

    Thanks for any help you could give me.

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