loach

Hey man nice work

I'm also building a stealth at the moment (but its taken me like 2 years so far and its not done... im slow )

I was thinking i would pain mine white when i was done, but i think Chuck Schuldiners green one looks the best (though you'd need some attractive wood for the top i guess if you wanted to copy that).

My vote goes to white... cause thats what mines gunna be too

EDIT: i just read the rest of the thread and noticed you already chose white .

Its okay i had finished it by the second post i did guys lol thanks anyway.

Yeah, thanks for more tips guys, i did put them on ball end through the headstock, and then you use the fine-tuners location as a guide for cutting the rest of the strings off. I saw a video on youtube a few months back that was just fantastic for floyd rose setting up, unfortunately for me youtube was down when i needed to restring, hence my question here =]

Oh, and only 2 or 3 times?! I had to tune it about 20

I sort of knew what i was doing just restringing it, but the change in gauges threw me off and i got worried Unfortunately they dont make the KVX10 in string through anymore, so i got one with a floyd, but also the wood and electronics are also better quality than the older models with string through bodies.

ahh i musta missed the tutorial... sorry

and yeah i prolly shoulda just dont it once at a time... but i felt like the bridge could use a bit of a clean ;P bad mistake.

EDIT : Ok so i went back with renewed patience and had another crack at it. It's easier to do than i thought. The accidental string gauge change from 0.09's to 0.10's will be good when im done because i usually play with .10's.

Ahh happy times. Thanks guys

hello. Ive got a jackson KVX10, that i snapped a string on yesterday for the first time since i bought it. When i bought it the store owner told me the string guage was .10's, but when i went to restring with .10's the string tension was completely overpowering the spring tension in the back, so i think he made a mistake and they may have been .09 guage strings. So getting desperate to play guitar i tried tightening the spring tension with the screws. I got more and more frustrated as i couldnt get the floyd to sit parallel. So my dad gave it a go, and i guess while its parallel, my worry is that one of the screws (the one on the treble side) is tightened almost all the way in, and the other is quite far out. Is this normal? Is it hurting my baby? Ive posted a pic so hopefully you guys know more than i do =]

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5501/backfloyd1gg3.jpg

(sorry i dont know how to imbed the photo into the post , and sorry i suck at taking photos)

cheers in advance for any help

ive got a ds-1... but im currently running a squier through it so you know... hard to give you much info because my setup is cheap. i think its a good pedal if you dont expect too much, for the positives ive had some fun fiddling around with some of the settings they give you like the crunch and warm rock etc, cause i couldnt have got these sounds with my amp + squier alone, but on the downside, i hardly use them. I guess im pleased, but that in no way means you would be, why not try one out at a music store? ... i really only got mine ebcause it was $40 australian ;D

someone uploaded some plans on here not so long ago... i just used them as a reference to draw out my own full size planns.

heres the thread.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...bc+rich+stealth

yeah the website seems to be picky about who it works for. Doesn't work for me, but i dont need the plans.

thanks. i talked to some luthiers today and they said it SHOULD work... theres deffinately wood on the bass side, but im still not sure if the way its held there will be strong enough. Only time will tell it guess ;P. Still worries me though.

No no, the beautiful thing is i havent began routing yet, i just wanted to know the necessity of the longer pocket on the bass side... but in the time since i posted this ive done a redesign i still quite like with more support Thanks anyway though. (I should be bandsawing it out tomorrow)

Its sort of a warrior/stealth style

What i mean by more wood (i knew id have trouble explaining myself ;( )

http://www.ilmetronomo.it/foto/20060302164720-DSC00506.JPG

(i just google image searched bolt-on)

but see how the left side of the neck pocket has alot more wood around ? I'll see if i can find a better picture lol.

Hello.

Since ive changed my design to a bolt-on (i've recently glued the body blanks together) i thought i may need to change the design around the neck pocket for extra strength (ive extended it but its still cut away on the sides). The reason i thought this, was that on most bolt-on's i see, the bottom (or right) of the neck pocket is cut away (on my squire it ends at the 20th fret), but on the top side it extends down to 17th.

How neccessary is it to have one side with alot more wood? I am having trouble redesigning my project to look good and have more wood on one side of the neck pocket (as a set neck the neck pocket stopped quite short).

Hopefully this makes sense to you all ;P (i tried searching, but i couldnt find much... most likely my keywords were terrible)

I just finished glueing my first body together... Ill probably leave it alone for at least another 24 hours. It has slipped a tiny bit, but hopefully this wont matter much because its still yet to be thicknessed. Im filled with doubt like usual, worried that i didnt use enough glue, or used too much, or that it will arc a bit, but theres nothing i can do now but wait i guess.

Thank you

Alright that means that my drawn out plans are correct and now i have the wood (alder body, maple neck, rosewood fretboard) i can begin.

Thanks again

Hello, ive recently been planning to make a guitar, and i have read melvyn hiscocks book however i cant access it at the moment to get these questions answered so i was hoping you guys could help (sorry my first post had to be questions!)

Are there any drawbacks from angling the neck on a bolt-on? I just dont see it done too often and since ive decided pretty much last minute to change from set to bolt-on for my first guitar.

I've measured the height of my t-o-m from the top of the studs to the top of the saddle, and it came out as roughly 16mm, is this the bridge height? (im not asking for an exact measurement, but are those the right places to measure from? If yes, i can calculate the neck angle )

And now for the most embrassing question, when someone says 'measured from the nut' what point on the nut do they mean? the dead centre, or one of the edges?

Help would be greatly appreciated!