kings_x

Well, now that we have that issue resolved...

Here are some pics of my newest project. I am making two identical guitars. If they turn out decent, I'm selling one to a friend.

Here are a couple of issues I would like some advice on. One of my tops has a fracture that runs right through the area where I have the f-hole drawn. Once the top is glued down, it shouldn't be a problem. Should I go ahead and break it a re-glue it or leave it alone?

Also, my friend wants a deep green stain applied to the top. Should I try bleaching the leaopardwood or will the green show up as is?

Mike

Here's how Westheman did it:

Maybe you should use the measurment from the nut to the bridge.

Mike

That's what I'm doing, too. Leopardwood top.

Mike

I am building something like that now. I plan on routing out two large chambers on each side (left, right) of the body leaving engough of a lip to laminate a top to it.

Why does the Warmoth body have a series of small chambers instead of one large one?

Mike

How about Gibson's attempt to copy the Strat.

Mike

Leopardwood looks very much like lacewood but its darker and much heavier. The store I bought it from had them both sitting together. The lacewood boards were not wide enough so I bought the leopardwood.

Mike

Here is a picture of the leopardwood.

And here are the mahogany necks. I clamped both together at the same time. I suppose I could have used more clamps but they seemed to do a decent job and they are all I had.

Mike

Yeah, that's some really high-octane wood, love to get ahold of some myself one day...post pics of the leopardwood guitars!

I've got enough for two tops. I just had it resawed yesterday. I now have 2 boards 7/16 x 9 x 3 feet. I'll be cutting them in half to make two tops. If you have some other figured wood, maybe we could work out a trade.

I'll post some pictures later tonight.

Mike

I am building a neck-thru using mahogany for the neck and body wings and leopardwood for a top. Does anyone know what the tonal qualities of leopardwood? It is a very dense and heavy wood.

Mike

I saw on the Stew Mac site's instructions for the Hotrod, they say to install the adjustment nut at the heel of the neck. Is it possible to install it the other way and have it come out at the peghead?

Mike

Hollowbody:

Solidbody:

Mike

Whats the difference tonally between a solid body and a hollow body guitar?

One is filled with wood the other is filled with air.

Mike

urbansmurf, what part of the state do you live? You're actually the only other person I've seen from Arkansas on the forum. Just curious.

I'm fairly new to the board. I currently live in Indiana but will be moving to Little Rock later this year.

Mike

I bought the stuff to make the "truss rod 1" linked at the begining of this thread. Has anyone made one of these? I understand how to make the truss rod itself but have a couple of questions:

1) Can the rod be put in the opposite direction than what is shown in the picture. In other words, can the adjustment nut be at the peghead?

2) Can the routed channel be straight depth wise or should it be curved (deeper in the middle)?

Anyone?

Thanks,

Mike

We can put a man on the moon but we can't design a strap lock that will withstand spinning a guitar around your neck?!?!? Whats this world coming to?

Mike

I just got back from the local lumber yard. I bought 14 BF of Honduras Mahognay, 8/4 x 7in x 10 feet. I have enough mahogany to make 3 or 4 guitars. $5.95/BF, just over $90 after tax.

Mike

I remember seeing someone posting a picture of their progress on a neck (can't remember who). But they glued the fretboard on then used a router with an edge guide to route out each side of the fretboard for the binding. I might try that on my next guitar.

Mike

A friend of mine has a 1969 Gretsch Viking in near perfect condition. Anyone have any idea what its worth? I did a little searching on the internet and it looks as though its worth $600 - $800 dollars. Is that about right?

Mike

I found this at thewoodbox.com:

Machining:

It has good workability but a reduced cutting angle, may help, when planing. The rays, on quartersawn lacewood may tend to tear out. Use sharp cutters and a reduced angle of about 20 degrees.

A wide belt sander works even better, but most of us do not have access to such a beast. I'm told it has good bending properties.

I'm thinking of using a lacewood top for my next guitar. Looks exotic at a pretty resonable price.

Mike

Single coils?!?! Are you crazy?!?! Why, those would look stupid in a JEM.

Mike

Wow, totally cool. Now I'm getting excited about this. I was definitely planning on sanding the heel down, as i was going for a super strat design. That would be OK, right? Also, how do you get the wings on, just Titebond or something?

I used Gorilla Glue but I'm sure Tightbond would work. I'm guessing the key would be to make sure the wings are jointed well and the glue is applied evenly.

I'm making my own neck for my next project though.

Mike

Well, I dunno. Never seen a JET with a floyd, let alone a monkeygrip....got pics or a link?

Oops, I meant JEM. It seems everybody and their brother want to build the same guitar around here. I guess its even less funny now.

BTW, I like that guitar.

Mike

I hated it. I want to see another JET with a Floyd-Rose bridge and one of those cool monkey handles. Why doesn't someone make one of those?

Mike

I tought you were going to post a link to one of those nasty "toilet sex" sites.

Mike

Hello. Is this thing on?

Mike