jarvey

Well, pots wiggle, with knobs on them or not split-shaft pots seem to be even worse. Personally, i hate split-shaft pots when i'm not using push-on knobs. I need to find a better parts supplier that has solid-shaft pots. When i'm using split-shaft pots with set-screw knobs, i always align the set screw with the split, so it won't be squeezing the pot closed when tightened.

With regard to the aluminum back plate, yes, it's rough, and it's temporary. (Doesn't anybody read the words between the pictures any more?)

Why a bolt-on neck? Why not? Check out <a href="http://decibelguitars.com/anatomy-of-a-neck-joint/" target="_blank">http://decibelguitars.com/anatomy-of-a-neck-joint/</a> for a full rationale behind why i chose to do a bolt-on neck vs. other neck styles.

As far as the finish goes, i'm not totally thrilled with it. I'm used to using pure tung oil, and this was my first try at using the polymerized stuff. This is my first build in a LONG time, and it's a prototype, so i'm trying different stuff with it. I may outsource my finishing to someone who's got the equipment and expertise to do a pro job of it. I intensely dislike painting, so i'd rather have someone else do it.

I've used a DuPont Polymerized Tung Oil for years and it is very finicky. I finished a very expensive custom made couch and chairs made of Birds-I with phenomenal results. The main trick is to brush on with a good brush and just before it sets you wipe it with a clean rag. It builds much faster than regular oil so you can get a high gloss very quickly but it still looks hand rubbed. I am a furniture maker and do all my own finishes but finishing is a profession in itself. The other way to go is to just use a Watco type oil and realize you will have to occasionally feed it and you won't get that high gloss. Just my 2 cents. Congratulations on a nice build. Completion counts! I should have mentioned that your final coat is not touched and so the last coat looks wet.

I was prouder of you when you did it all by hand.

THIS...jointer business...is just lazy.

I'll remember that when you want to use it on your lap steel build.

Jarvey, yeah there really is some very nice original work around here. I'm glad you like this design.

SR

It's funny when I was building my 1st guitar I didn't want to look at any other designs and I am glad I did it that way. I discovered what I like in design. Now I want to see what everyone is doing. I plan on stealing all the good ideas here! I heard once that great musicians are great thieves. I just really like the lines you use. I have my eye on you for sure.

Really nice design. I liked that you showed the design process. I really like the original designing that goes on here and less interested in knock-offs. Really looking forward to watching this one develop. Thanks.

I really like this guitar. I am most interested in the original designs over re-makes. Very cool.

I absolutely love it. Looks like you might be a fellow Deadhead based on your website. It is simply beautiful. Thanks for the inspiring post. I am currently working on my 1st Lap Steel which is a little tame compared to yours but you gave me some mojo moving forward. Peace.

...and thats where we are .

I'll save the rest of the pics for the finale.

I love you wacky guitar/bass builders. Makes me feel right at home. I say whatever floats your boat. Excellent craftsmanship which is what I always look for. Bravo!

Decided to carve into corner detail. I am trying to sneak up on it so as to not go to far too fast.

I pulled the frets tonight. I scraped off most of the finish, then hit it with 60-grit on the radius block to get off everything else. I got a couple spots of chip-out from pulling the frets, but I don't think it'll be a really big deal.

I'm still a little in-the-air about how best to go about re-finishing the board. I KNOW I have to use shellac because of the cocobolo, but it yellows out pretty quickly when a good layer is built. I suppose I could go with just one or two sealer coats and then hit it with some w/b poly for protection.

Someone earlier asked why use poly? I agree. I am new to guitar building but I have lots of finishing experience as a furniture maker. I like this build by the way and think you are doing a great job. Poly can work over shellac and honestly I am not sure exactly what went wrong but doing samples might have prevented this. I try and take copious notes on my finishes so I can duplicate them. I use shellac all of the time but I do mix my own. You should be able to get phenomenal results with just shellac. Patience. Build up with very thin layers. I honestly just don't like poly unless it is on a floor or railings. I think the way you are solving the problem is a good solution and probably what I would have done. Thanks for posting. Great inlay!

Just a little update

Finished with shellac to add some color and getting ready to be sprayed with poly.

Just need to fit bridge, ferrules, route pickup and fret.

Yeah, I really like the shape of this guitar. Nice workmanship along the way, too. Thanks for the great posting.

Let's hope you can live up to that name "Mender" Good luck. A big fear of mine. Great build. My brother was in town and played my 1st guitar and it was too wide and thick for him. I love it and actually feel my hand gets less tired when I have more to grab on to. Just personal preference I suppose. That is the beauty of a "custom built" anything. I love these detailed discussion on the minutia, after all, it's all minutia.

It is good you are taking these learning experiences in stride. The way to avoid them in the future is to try and think 2 and 3 steps ahead, which I am sure you realize. I am not, in general, crazy about copies of guitars but I have to say what you did with the headstock is very imaginative. I would like to see what type of body you would design. The guitars I love looking at the most are the ones designed by the builder themselves. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for posting.

This is an example of my 1st Electric Guitar build. I guess this is a style I am going be exploring more. Trained as furniture maker but really very little carving experience so I think I will start exploring even more challenging types of carving. I just thought I would relate the 2 styles.

I'm actually liking the body shape, particularly with the carves. I think you ought to put in a mild arch in the top as well. It will add to the class.

SR

Hey SR, I actually thank you. I think the carving was needed. They will stay natural (probably amber shellac) and stain body black. Great minds think alike, I am considering a mild arch. This started as a "simple" project. Well, you know how that goes. Check back with my updates as I really appreciate the feedback. This is a great site with so many talented builders but you guys are so supportive and I really thank you for that. I will check out your work for sure. Thanks again.

Looking good, lap steels are a fun build. How did you make your bridge and string plate?

I know the shape may be a little over the top but it makes me smile when I look at it so..

Thats the beauty of a lap steel build, they have such a rich history to draw from and most anything goes.

Thank you, Quarter. I agree with you completely on the rich history and anything does go. I am a furniture maker and made some tables with Bronze bases a while back. These were leftover scraps that were sized perfectly for this. The bronze is 3/16" sheet stock so I simply cut the shape with my 4" angle grinder and drilled and filed. Kind of basic. I am still sanding pieces to 320 grit and will take it to my friends jewelry shop and buff out. I am staining body black but leaving the carved parts natural color for a contrast. I hope it won't look too silly.

2 days to think about it. 10 minutes to carve it. Even though the shape is a bit tongue in cheek I am hoping to come out with something somewhat classy. We shall see.

I just have to ask. Is your shop built over a filled in pool? It sure appears so.

yeah I'm in a poolhouse and it's filled in

It is so funny I am building a lap steel and was trying to avoid the violin shape but I just couldn't even though mine really is not true to a real violin. I love that you just went for it. Kudos!

Decided to go with this design. Will be carving shaded area out and leaving natural while the rest will be stained black. Flying by the seat of my pants.

Custom made Bronze Hardware. Inspired by not having quite enough Mahogany for another thru body neck style guitar. Having lots of fun with this one. I plan on using Golden Age P-90. Has anyone used one of these?

Custom made Bronze Hardware. Inspired by not having quite enough Mahogany for another thru body neck style guitar. Having lots of fun with this one. I plan on using Golden Age P-90. Has anyone used one of these? I know the shape may be a little over the top but it makes me smile when I look at it so...

does the bridge cover it all?

not an excuse to have a loose fit, but its nice if you dont have to worry about a perfect grain match

Wes, the bridge will cover everything but the last 0.125" at the rearend of the bridge. Actually it will be under the roll up of that part so not really visible with out close inspection. He's not worried about asthetics at this point

Just another update.

I know this CNC crap is boring as hell.

Nope, not at all. I for one, enjoy seeing a problem laid out and then systematically solved. I doubt seriously if I'm alone in this.

Carry on.

SR

Thanks Scott.

Have been delayed for a day or so. Will return with the new layout soon. Also the ferrules are on back order so Now I have plenty of time

MK

Since I don't own a cnc I appreciate seeing it in use. Boy, it does seem like cheating though. Just kidding. I liked how you showed your math, too. Your math teacher would be proud.

How is it working with the Lacewood? Is it prone to tear out or any other issues?

I've heard lacewood called "Austrailin Oak" and I would say it is similar to white oak in its working properties. I am doing another lacewood guitar and there were a couple small tearouts but not too bad. I'll sand a little and do some doping in with sealer if I have to. I've worked with a lot of birds-I and birch so some of it has to do with slowing up when jointing and taking less off each pass. I know some people use a thickness sander because of tear out. I am a furniture maker so I've milled up a lot of stock and experience really can't be taught but just being aware that it wants to tear out helps.

I think you are referring to "Sheoak" which is a timber only native(that im aware of) to where i live in the southwest of Australia. There is also Aussie oak which is very similar to Tasmanian Oak but probably grows on the mainland of Oz. I have used both Oz oak and Sheoak in necks. Oz oak is strong and straight grained and easy to work with and Sheoak has those little eyes like lacewood when flatsawn that can tear out.

Yeah, the SG is an obvious influence and i just know the PRS singlecut cause its like a Les but stretched long, quite an elegant shape i feel. It is hard to make a truly original design. Everything can be related to another design, but to merge a few and make it your own is well done. Its a nice shape!

Sorry for the misspelling of "Austrailian". Thanks for shedding some light on the types of oak. Thanks for commenting on the shape. I am extemely happy with the way it feels in my hands. It is very well balanced, too. All of the guitars I am building will balance on the leg which I really like. I never liked fighting Les Pauls when sitting down. I can't wait to finish this 1st batch of 4 guitars and design some more. Endless Ideas.

How is it working with the Lacewood? Is it prone to tear out or any other issues?

I've heard lacewood called "Austrailin Oak" and I would say it is similar to white oak in its working properties. I am doing another lacewood guitar and there were a couple small tearouts but not too bad. I'll sand a little and do some doping in with sealer if I have to. I've worked with a lot of birds-I and birch so some of it has to do with slowing up when jointing and taking less off each pass. I know some people use a thickness sander because of tear out. I am a furniture maker so I've milled up a lot of stock and experience really can't be taught but just being aware that it wants to tear out helps.

Hey Jarvey,

I like your style. The second guit is like a cross between an SG, Les Paul and a singlecut PRS. Nice Lacewood BTW. Keep up the good work.

Chad.

Thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated. As you call the "second guit" it is actually my 1st completed, not to surprising that it has that hybrid of SG (I own a 1969), Prs (I borrowed one for an example to work off, tech specs). Good eye. It is like building a piece of furniture or creating music, influences creep in without realizing it sometimes.

I love that first one with the piano bridge.

very nice.

I really appreciate your comment. I think I will be exploring more of the carved top style. I actually have Guitar # 4 which is kind of a combo between #1 & # 2. Just exploring shapes & styles.

I like the German-style carve. I'm figuring to do something similar with an Airline copy someday.

MMMM, didn't know I was doing a German-style carve but the shape seems kind of familiar.