bz2
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Posts posted by bz2
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too bad I cut that hole in it cause with a different peice of wood there I will have too use a solid finish.
You can fill the hole and hide it with a nice veneer.
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If you do anything like that, a veneer on the top and back of the headstock will strengthen it significantly.
Plus it can be very pretty as well!
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You could cut the head of diagonally (viewed from the side), like a scarf joint but a bit out on the head, and the glue on another piece. Not sure if it would be strong enough though as you probably would have to strengthen it with some dowels..
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It looks really good! How did you get the idea for that long neck pocket? It looks really nice.
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....or even simpler, why not use headphones or get some decent powered monitors? I've got some Roland DM10's that are brilliant for recording through & work well with my Pod Pro.
If you're set on an amp....I use a Laney LC30 which is fantastic. Extremely loud, never pushed it past 2 & the clean channel is as clean as clean can be even at very high volume (anything past 1). The sound's very british (think AC30) but the clean channel is quite clear & works well with effects.... I use a LOT of effects! It's fairly cheap, compact (1x12"), all valve & is plenty powerful enough for large club gigs as well as home practice.
I'd suggest looking on Harmony Central for reviews.
Those monitors looks good. Yeah I have looked at harmony-central but they have a _lot_ I am having a hard time finding out what to buy
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I have some Elm you see and i was looking at it. It looks nice...is fairly hard and looks fairly suitable for a body blank or a laminated neck or even a top.
There is one thing i need to hear before i use it to build future projects (there is about a million guitars i want to build at the moment and the amount of free elm i have would take care of half of them)
And that one thing is:
Does anyone have experience or is this something i will have to find out for myself? Personally i'd rather hear someone say "it works" than to end up waisting time on a possible failure, you see.
Anyway, Got any clues?
From what I have heard it is a good body wood. Haven't seen it on so many guitars but there are quite a few elm basses out there, I think it is suited for a deeper and more bassy sound. I say go for it. Only bad thing with it is that it smells quite bad when you work it.
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Ok. Thanks for the advice, I'll look if we have one there.
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Hello.
Today in the woodshop I was about to drill the holes for the machine heads, but then I discovered that the pole was 6mm thick and the "washer"(?) was 8mm.. Should I drill the holes 8mm all the way through or drill them 6 mm from behind and then an 8mm hole that starts from the front and is deep enough for the "washer"(?)?
The machine heads are cheap ones from an Epiphone.
Best regards, Ben.
PS My technical english is not so good, hope you understand what I mean.
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Beech is very dense and stiff so I think it would last quite well. But I have heard that it moves a lot when the climate changes, not sure about that though..
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I don't know about ZOOM pedals much.. but does yours have preamp?
then why not just buy cabs, and slave them?
you won't need effects loop or anything like that... everything happens inside your pedal (if you have preamp) and speakers just make the digital signals audible..
but I don't guarantee quality results..
I used to slave into my 2x12combo from Boss multi-fx, until I got access to a decent tube amp
Excuse me, but what do you mean by slave it?? Do you simply mean connect it to a power amplifier and then out to the speakers??? The box (g2.1u) has two modes, "Live"-mode and "Record"-mode.. I think it must mean it has a preamp.
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Lately i have an interest in making guitars ( coz i like it and guitars here are overpriced and hard to find.. )
For the project I am working on now I bought a whole new guitar and took most parts from (and then auctioned out the body and neck ) , it didn't even cost half as much as it would do if I bought all parts separately.
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How loud do you want? If it's just for practice, you can get a couple of those Epiphone Valve Jr's. You can't really get a heavy distortion out of them but they sound great clean--not as good as my Fender Champ but somewhere in the ballpark. You need to get the newer models which fix the noise problems the originals had.
Also, the Orange Crush 30 is pretty sweet for only two-hundred bucks.
You could just get like a 2 or 1x12 cab in addition to the amp. and hook it up so it stereos. I think it's possible but I'm no amp expert.Depends on the amp. For the most part, you can't. I think you'd need a stereo effects loop and stereo speaker outs.
I don't really want it _that_ loud as it is only for practicing at home. It doesn't need to have any distorsion/effects since I just want to use it after my zoom box. If I can't get a really cheap stereo guitar-amp I consider buying two instead and connect it with a y-cable. The Peavey that Nitefly SA recommended seems to be almost what I want.
The valve jr is a little too expensive for me, but the size is really good.
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The fender look god but it is a little expensive if I want to get two of them.. Isn't there any stereo amps in that pricerange?
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That one sure looks promising
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Hello. I am looking for a really cheap combo amp for home use and since I am short on money I want one as cheap as possible. I want to buy two so I can plug my zoom pedal to them for stereo effects. They dont need any distorsion or any own effects since I intend to create the sound in the pedal. I have looked at Kustom's KGA 10 but from my experience it is only useful for trash distorsion. Does anyone know of a good amp in the same price class??
Thanks in advance.
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Nice design there
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I really like Gibson Les Paul DC's and SG's, smooth shaped and symetrical..
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I have heard that you can make quite nice tops out of hornbeam, haven't tried it myself though. Elmwood seems usable as well.
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Yup, high density and durability. It also has extreamly fine pores and takes a nice high polish. It is sought after for wind instruments because it handles moisture changes very well. I think it would be a great choice for fretboards. It may not hide dirt and grime as well as a darker wood, but should do just fine with a nice polish and oil finish. You don't see the wide use of fruit tree woods for guitars, although generally they have good properties. I would imagine that has more to due with availability (there value as a fruit producer makes it less viable as a commercial hardwood). I would pick some up if it became available to me locally.
Peace,Rich
Thanks for the information!
It seems like a very good choice. I think that I will have to live with it getting dirty, just have to clean it more often
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Has anybody else tried it?
I can't say I have tried it as a fretboard. What is it about Pear wood that leads you to think it will make a good fretboard for your project? (take that as a totally dry question). I am just wondering what properties Pear wood has that tell you it is the best choice for your guitar(density, durability, stability, stiffness, look, feel...).
Peace,Rich
I have heard that it is quite a good replacement for ebony and since I am trying to use only woods that grow naturally where I live it seems like the best. It has quite high density and durabillity. Also, think it looks nice. I am just a little curious if i can oil it or if it's easy or hard to work with. Just som general ideas about it.
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Has anybody else tried it?
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Thanks for the link, great guitars
I tried to mail him but I only got a "deliverance failure" mail back.. I will try again later..
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Hello!
I am new here and I have a question.
I am building a guitar and I am thinking of making the fretboard out of pear wood. Has anybody had any experience with it? Can it be oiled or do does it have to be laquered??
Best regards.
Treating Wood For Color, Etc?
in Inlays and Finishing Chat
Posted
Hi. If you put rusty metal parts in vinegar and then leave it there for about 2 weeks then you have a nice black stain that works well with oak and other woods with high content that acid (tannin?? not really sure about the english word for it.), and also has a mild darkening effect on other woods as well.