themetalhankey

So I was dive bombing with the zr bridge in an s470 up and down. I broke the screw, its either a screw or something that was attached on the bridge itself. The part I'm talking about is the place where the whammy bar goes in. That whole piece broke in half, so now the other half is inside the body somewhere ( I haven't taken it apart yet) and the other piece is in front of me. Its just a hole now.

And this is a rental and its due this saturday.

Should I open it up and try to fix it?

Should I just give it to long and mcquade (renting place) like it is right now?

I've gone to a music shop and they told me to fix it, I may have to replace the whole bridge but the part I broke is only like a 5 dollar part. I also bought insurance when I rented this thing, I didn't abuse the whammy bar, I was just using it like anyone normally would.

What should I do?

HERE's PICS:

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/24/imga1219hq6.jpg

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/6208/imga1223qh8.jpg

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1781/imga1226ep3.jpg

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8459/imga1222ul3.jpg

the part on the left goes under the bridge, then the bridge comes, then the part on the right goes on top of the bridge then the whammy bar sticks in the part on the right.

that screw is split in half

I mean what would be the average size be? And the average length for a screw. So I know which to buy.

What are the size and length of the screws for a bolt on neck?

How deep should they go into the neck too?

yes it'll be a bolt on

its actually 7 pieces and yes

I can't buy a new made neck, cus the fretboard is custom, its 25 frets and for a 7 string.

Ummm yeah.... chalk this one up to experience and try again

did you even visit the link?

Here is a preview of the guitar with the woodwork complete:

All of the pics of progress can be seen here:

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showt...817#post8018817

I post on Ultimate Guitar because I like the way that you can keep a lot of pictures in 1 post

I will scare you guys on this picture:

But seriously I'm almost complete with the entire 7 string mockingbird.. again this is my first build. Since I don't really like this forum because of the limit of pics per post policy, but I love the help,tips, advice, and seeing other peoples builds here, this is the website forum that I go on and there are numerous pictures of the entire guitar being completed.

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showt...817#post8018817

Just checkin here... I don't have the part with me and I've got to finish this body with all holes drilled, plus its due soon.

please do not dye the fretboard like that ugly dean.

it makes the guitar look so cheap and corny.

but come on with some progress!

lol im sorry, but I have all the progress + LOADS of pics of this , here

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475304

Don't tell me the board wasn't even waxed first, and you just let the glue stay on there and dry, especially the squeeze-out right along the frets. Sounds like a nightmare I might have. Maybe not as bad as the one, where I was clamping frets and the other end of the clamp was just going right through the back of the neck, but then again, I don't have any real experience with Gorilla glue.

I didn't radius the fretboard, but I heard that you CAN keep the fretboard unradiused which has its advantages and disadvantages as well as a radiused one.

Radiused: better bar chords , better feel I guess

Unradius: better for setting up the bridge, lining it up, easier for bends

Yup I just learned that I had to wax it before I glue it... meaning I didn't wax it before I glued them frets in.

Now I have all this gorilla glue stuck on my fingers and I'm tryin to play with my guitars and its friggin hell cus its stuck like super glue, I tried peeling it off and it freakin burned and left cuts, similar to paper cuts.

Poor me

SO SORRY GUYS, but I hammered+ gorrilla glued the frets in today! I feel ashamed at myself for doing that. When I applied the glue, I put the glue over the fret slot, put the fret over that and hammered it in. At one of the slots, I put the fret in and it was not level so I used 2 mini clamps to keep it in... I just should have gone Fretless that would have been the best choice.. DAMNIT. Plus I got the gorilla glue all over my hands, and it leaves a black mark on me :S...

Oh I also got the gorilla glue everywhere on the fretboard and some clamping mistakes which screwed up the fretboard with some pinches and many imperfections on the fretboard now, so I will probably scallop the entire fretboard to get rid of the imperfections and the gorilla glue which I think I overapplied because when I put the fret in, all the glue smudges out. Right now it's at school all clamped nicely, I got all 25 frets complete in 40 minutes. Bit rushed I'd say, I did the last 4 frets (23,23,24,25) in less than a minute because the bell rang... rofl.

Yes I admit im dumb and should have just gone with a fretless fretboard. We'll see what it'll look like on monday, the last day of the semester before exams start. Hopefully I'll carve the neck and finish some routing errors I made on the body to fit in the neck pocket.

What are you measuring the slots with ? I think a feeler-gauge is the only thing that gives the most true reading.

1 millimeter = 0.039" That would be a damn wide slot

http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache:mZDXx...t=clnk&cd=2

I made a crimper tool that takes Frank's to a new level, and I consider it an essential fretting tool, if you are going to take on fret-work that involves less than perfect fret-slots.

a 15 cm ruler lol

ok those slots i measured are 1 mm each. How much should a "proper" fret slot be?

I think you are going to have a heck of a time working with those frets(getting them level) if you glue them in like that. Holing out for a proper kerf would have been wise. A quick question about the first pick you have posted. It looks like there is a bit of tape over the truss slot. Is that just a small piece you placed in the nut slot or is that the tape you used to keep glue from getting into the truss rod slot when you glued down the fretboard?

Peace,Rich

yeah how would I get my saw to have an even cut, because when I use my hacksaw to cut the slot, it has a deeper depth at the ends of the cut than the middle of the cut.

Also the masking tape was from the truss rod. I put 2 pieces of tape over the truss rod. Iwill leave the tape there for the nut to go over because glue will be applied to put the nut on there.

in that case i would go ahead and epoxy them in...but how will you ever get the paint to cure in time?oil finish?

you can always fix it properly later if you have problems...but you gotta get that grade

I just need to complete the body and neck. lol

and I can seal+paint by myself

I'm almost complete with the body I'll post pics of it tomorrow, its in the school cupboard right now

I feel I've ruined them too, but then again this is my first guitar, I've spent over 100 dollars on this guitar already and this is for school. Only 2 days left to finish the guitar.

I need some help and advice on doing these frets...

I don't have a gentlemen's saw, and they don't sell them at home depot.. the guy i talked to never even heard of a gent's saw.

So then I used my metal hacksaw. The fret fits in the slot, but there is a little small space, so I can't hammer in the frets. I'll have to put some glue in there so it'll make up for the small space in the slot.

Now what kind of glue is good for installing frets? I'm probably going to have to use Carpenters glue or gorrila glue or super glue. I heard epoxy is good but I don't know what that is, don't know where to get it, and my school doesn't own epoxy.

Anyways.. here are some pics:

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/3972/imga1152vs0.jpg

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6760/imga1153pi3.jpg

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/2966/imga1154qo5.jpg

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/6673/imga1155rw0.jpg

I have 2 500k audio pots from allparts. Are all of these holes drilled for the pots, the same size drill bit?

And would it be the same for the switch selector? Btw I'm using a 3 way switch, the circle one, not the long 5 switch selector. Thank you

this is the one that i have here, its a 500k audio pot ts split knurled shaft.

Would this be ok for a volume knob?

sorry I havent been updating here, but heres a link to the ultimate guitar thread, I'm always there, http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475304

here's the actual pics of the stuff that I've done so far:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=26875

cheers

Specs:

Fretboard: Maple

Body: Mahogany, 1 3/4" thick

Chrome TOM bridge with 7 string ferrules, so string thru bridge

1 humbucker at bridge

1 single coil at neck (single coil is angled because of angled fretboard, Caparison style)

Neck: 5 Piece , Maple with 2 Walnut accents

Head: 13º neck joint, Maple Veneer, Caparison, 4x3

2 way Truss Rod

Body Blank:

Body is made out of 7 pieces of varying widths of mahogany, which were all around 3/4"

Bad pics of the blank

The body just cut:

The neck glued together at the neck joint at 13º:

(sorry don't have pics of neck blank, but you get the idea )

Stuff to do on neck:

Sand neck joint until perfectly flat at the head

Trace out final neck and head shape

Trace out routing channel

Stuff to do on the body:

Sand edges of body until no more sight of relief cuts

Trace cavities to be routed

First Guitar I'm making so don't flame me

Thanks to the SwedishLuthier for most of the help of the template

I'm not sure about pic rules on this forum but post something and I'll change em, but it should be ok, since all the pics are sized down

that is true.

I'll be getting these parts over the weekend

Now I just need the measurements for the depths of the cavities of the humbucker and single coil pickups, depths of neck pocket, knobs, bridge , and the back plates for the control cavity

Ok, Now I'm making a checklist as to what to get, heres it so far:

7 string TOM Bridge

7 string humbucker

7 string single coil

7 string tuners

7 string tradtional truss rod (would I even need a special truss rod for 7 string guitar? Or do i just get a regular truss rod?)

Fretwire

Volume and Tone knobs

3 way switch selector

500k Log Pots

Strap Locks

Back Neck plate Screws

Wiring

Metallic paper cover

7 String ferrules

Is there anything I'm missing?

hey swedish luthier, here are the dimensions for the bridge:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tun-O-Matic-Style-Brid...bayphotohosting

84 mm (center to center of post holes)

10.5 mm string spacing

15 mm wide (front to back)

11.4 mm tall at highest point (middle 2 saddles)

10.2 mm tall at outside saddles