JellyBaby

Yes thanks everyone for all your help and advice!

I definitely have the right respirator, it's for moderate levels (5000 ppm or something) of organic compounds. Only cost me £12 from ebay It's reusable but only for so long.

I'll definitely get some pics up when I'm done (unless it turns out total crap haha) with some lessons learnt (of which there are many already ) and how well the lacquering went, but it'll be a good few weeks before I have anything to show. Stay Tuned!

Thanks Again,

Nick

Um wouldn't it be better to use a coping saw and then do the edges using a small fine flat file and some wet and dry? I'm new at all this so this is just my opinion on how I would try doing it.

I quite like those spots ... they add a bit of irregularity and imo enhance the natural look.

I didn't even see them initially, they just looked like they were meant to be there.

Well that solves the cleanup issue. If you don't clean a gun immediately after finishing up you are going to have a very tough time restoring it.

The respirator is still a must though.

Yep, I've ordered a 3M 4255 respirator and a box of Nitrile gloves. Do I need proper coveralls or can I just get away with cotton ones? and what is the right eye protection? I have some impact glasses but obviously they won't protect against the gases.

It's actually 2k in a rattle can

2K urethanese are usually a little pricier. For the lower end stuff, which will look nice but does not spray as nicely or flow out as nicely I have usually seen around $40 for a quart with catalyst.

Acrylic lacquers are used a lot by rookies, but have the tendancy to take forever to harden, and even then they never get as hard as nitro lacquer. People have reported getting marks in the clear coat after setting a guitar on a towel 6 months after spraying the clear coat with acrylic lacquer.

Ah right I see. I have no idea how much a "quart" is, but assuming it's around 1 litre for $40 (about £25) doesn't seem too bad to me ... assuming I'd be able to do more than one body with that?

This 2k stuff I've bought I have no idea whether it is poly or acrylic, I assume it's acrylic as it's aimed at the car industry and that all seems to be acrylic. We shall see. I've just learned that the isocryanite (??) in the hardner (? the one of the 2 parts) is incredibly toxic and I am now paranoid about dying ... so I now need to find protective wear that's more suitable than what I have now (some old clothes, dust mask and some goggles)

Ah that's really good to know thanks I would have made exactly the same mistake trying to get rid of all of the shiny bits, but what you've said makes complete sense.

Going to buy a tin of that 2k stuff now to test!

How to do finish on maple necks (i am talking about the back of the neck) like Ibanez do, so it's not shiny like on fenders, it has to be mat. What finish they use? Thanks.

I guess some kind of satin clearcoat that has been wet and dried like crazy. I don't really know, but I think that's how I would try it. Going to be doing it on a neck i have.

i used minwax poly spray and it comes out awesome

thats just the second coat. i cant remember if this was leveled at the time. but you can see how shiny it is. ive sanded down this coat and bufffed it and its like glass its just about how well you spray and how well you level it

now i got about 18 more coats to go haha j/k but i still got work. but anyway i hope that helps?

wow that is looking sexy ... not sure minwax is available in the UK though? I shall have a google.

What is meant by "levelling" when it comes to clear coating? Sounds like quite an important step in the clear coating process to get best results! :o

Do you mean this stuff: EBAY ?

What about acrylic lacquers, are they any good? I've been searching on lacquers for the last couple of hours and acrylic ones seem to be the easiest to get hold of. Nitro is pretty much impossible to get or far too expensive and I haven't found any poly yet ... having said that I have found a manufacturer called Morrells ( link ) which could be a winner ... they also have a branch in Bristol which is near me. Going to drop them an email see if I can get any prices.

That Nitrocellulose stuff from reranch looks like the biz, it's in the sort of price range I'd be willing to pay for my first refinish attempt. I'm guessing I'd probably need about 4 cans of the stuff, only problem is it's in the US and I'm in the UK so I'll have to have a little look around for some equivalent Nitrocellulose stuff

Don't really know about the price but these people do nitro in the UK

http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/L...duct-flyer.html

they also do it in a non-aerosol from

Nice thanks, unfortunately the website seems a little broken.

Thanks guys, some really useful info there. I do actually have 2 gravity fed spray guns, not used them much; when I first started out I used them to spray the createx paint and was a little horrified by just how much paint they got through for not very good coverage, so I switched to a cheap airbrush which has produced a nice consistent colour finish (from my experience, of which I've had very little!) using considerably less paint. So I could go for these 2k urethane things but I know absoloutely nothing about them and cleaning the gun afterwards will be a nightmare (I'm quite lazy when it comes to boring things like that )

That Aeromax 2k stuff looked interesting, but a little on the expensive side I think (I guess you can't have it all) .. I don't know if the 2k urethane for sprayguns is any cheaper??

That Nitrocellulose stuff from reranch looks like the biz, it's in the sort of price range I'd be willing to pay for my first refinish attempt. I'm guessing I'd probably need about 4 cans of the stuff, only problem is it's in the US and I'm in the UK so I'll have to have a little look around for some equivalent Nitrocellulose stuff

The Minwax is nicely priced and is a poly ... might also be worth a look.

Maybe what I should do is shop around by a few cans of different types and brands within the price range and see which one I like the most.

Hello, I'm currently refinishing a guitar as a sort of experimental project to find out what I'm capable of, to make mistakes on and to learn from before I start attacking 2 other guitars of mine.

I'm using Createx auto air paints with an airbrush (a cheapo airbrush, but it seems to work well!). I'm nearing the end of applying the colour, just have a stencil to paint and black burst around the edge, and am beginning to think about the best way to do the final clearcoats. What I would like to achieve is a nice hard high gloss finish similar to what you see on good quality guitars. I'd rather use a rattlecan for this as I think non-waterbased liquids will be a pain in the arse to clean out of the airbrush.

Does anyone have any recommendations for rattlecan clearcoat that will be compatible with createx paint and not *too* nasty to use?

Thanks,

Nick

I've just realised this is probably in the wrong forum...doh!

awesome thank you very much I think I just need that rustins natural grain filler as I'll be painting over the top with translucent paint.

Hi!

I've just finished stripping paint from a body. However I'm having trouble removing paint from within the wood grain of a thin veneer.

What's the best way of completly removing the pain from the grain? I've tried wire wool which worked to an extent but not completly. I then tried wet and dry with a little bit of paint stripper, this didn't really work at all. I'm now thinking of using some very fine sand paper again with a small amount of stripper so I don't end up taking off the veneer.. is this the way to go, or is there a better method?

Also, can anyone advise me on which grain filler / wood sealer or whatever to use before I start painting and where the best place in the UK is to buy it from.

Many Thanks!

Nick

Okie dokie .. many thanks for your help!

Nice simple question:

Can I apply createx autoair paints straight on to bare wood or do I need to do something to the wood first?

Also, are there any (cheaper) alternative waterbased acrylic paints? createx seems to be a bit expensive.

Thanks!

Nick

hmm, that's beginning to sound very expensive for a small time hobby.

Okay, so what does CFI mean/stand for? is it similar to CFM?

Any suggestions on what I should look for in a compressor for painting?

I found this compressor at a reasonable price:

Features:

* Ultra quiet (54db) - can be used unobtrusively in the home

* Maintenance free oil-less piston design with lightweight aluminium construction

* Built in carry handle - light and easy to transport

* Pressure gauge and Professional Regulator - fully adjustable to 0 psi

* Water trap and air filter

* Rubber feet

* 1 year warranty

Specifications:

* Motor - 240V 50Hz 1Ph

* Power rating - 150W

* Rotational speed - 1450 rpm

* Maximum pressure - 57 psi

* 1/8 BSP male outlet

* Air displacement - 23 litres/min

* Weight - 3.6kg

Would this be suitable for spraying guitar bodies with a spray gun?

Thanks,

Nick

I measured to the 12th fret which was 32.5cm and then from the 12th fret to the bridge which was also 32.5cm... and 25.5" from nut to bridge - so that's good

Thank you all for your advice, I will plug the holes

I'm pretty much 100% sure that the neck should fit the body. The body is a year old RG AANJ that used to have a Wizard II neck and i'm pretty sure it was a 24 fret (25.5") neck and a 24fret Wizard II neck is what I have.

Out of curiosity, if the body originaliy had a 21 fret neck and I tried to stick a 24 fret neck on it, wouldn't it just be a case of changing the intonation on the bridge to make it work?

Hi,

I have just bought an Ibanez Wizard II 24 fret AANJ neck and an RG AANJ body. I have an issue where only one of the bolt holes on the neck line up with the hole in the body, the other 3 holes are about a millimeter or 2 out.

Does anyone have any ideas how I could rectify this ?

I've thought about making the holes in the body bigger to allow the bolts to move a bit so they can find the neck holes but then this would reduce the mechanical strength of the joint.

Thanks,

Nick