anderekel

John, I think it's starting to come together....

It's lookin' great. The binding really add's a lot to it.

Do them before you radius. Take into account that you'll lose a little width when you radius. Then just set up a makeshift fence on the drill press table (assuming you're using a drill press) and clamp it down where you need it and you're good to go. A center punch and brad point bit are extremely helpful too.

Oh,cool...thanks man...that is great.

One very stupid question though..."north" and "south"..."start" and "finish"..i don't get that terminology...Is that the north and south coil?and "start" refers to hot and "finish" for ground?

So "north start" would be the north coil's hot lead,etc..?

Yeah. North start would be the hot lead and south end would be the other lead on a wire humbucker.

So, for instance, on a seymour duncan pickup:

North Start-Black

North End-White

South Start-Red

South End-Green

Just to make sure you see it, I made it into a diagram with regular pots and a mini toggle.

[url="http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WD2HH3L11_01

It's got a lever switch, but you can switch it out with a toggle easily. Hope it helps.

Nevermind, not paying enough attention, still trying to find one.

Ok, it's not perfect lines, but that'll do what you want. North coil for the neck, south coil for the bridge.

Get a photobucket or flicker account and load it there.

Lookin' good. Just so ya know, the pictures of the new headstock aren't working.

Well, I picked up pretty much everything, except parts vr1 2 and 3 cause I wasn't sure what they were. It just hit me now that those are the pots. DOH!!!! So, I'll probably get everything wired up soon and just leave the pots til I get them.

That said, if we're building the guitars from scratch, why not make those routes the perfect depth to begin with?

...ahem....yeah, I kinda wondered that too......

DJ

If you look at the neck pocket of that guitar it looks like he's refinishing it. There seems to be leftover paint in it.

Well, my guess (and it's somewhat uneducated) is that it's just because it's a cheap trem. The licensed copies aren't as good as the original and many aren't very good at all.

I was lookin' at those cko files, not so sure about them now from what orgmorg said. I just looked on Warmoth to see what was there. They apear to have the same ibanez set that LMII has, only the warmoth one is almost 30 bucks less. The cheap set warmoth has also looks very similar to an LMII set, but it's like 15 bucks or so cheaper.

Sounds like a neck angle problem to me. If the actiom near the nut is good and it get higher toward the bridge, lowering the bridge could cause the strings to buzz on the frets nearer the nut. If that is the case you need to angle the neck pocket, as the other guys have said put some shims in there if it is a bolt on and take it from there

Hate 2 sound stupid, but what is a shim?

Just a little wedge of wood (some people use playing cards, part of a cigarette pack, whatever) that you would put at the end of the neck pocket to angle the neck a little bit.

Is it the burnt blue stain that's in the tutorials? If so there's no reason it has to be blue.

I have to go with gloss.

I would suggest you try moving all the pickups lower. From what I've heard, those wolf tones are cause because of the pickups being too close to the string and creating too much magnetic pull, blah blah blah. If that's what it is then you need to move all the pickups down unless you know which one it is. That's my only thought on it.

Yeah, do a guitar with blue countertop material, that would be awesome.

I gotta agree with wes on shaping the neck. That's definitely the best. Rasp, spokeshave, and sandpaper, good stuff

Oh, and just to make sure, I've heard the stuff is great, so I wasn't saying don't get it, just be patient

Just as a warning I've heard ReRanch can be slow because it's only one guy and he does it as a side business.

You don't really need a moulder, a router table will do fine, plus it's a little more versatile in the fact that you can use your router in the table or on it's own. Just my two cents though. (and you almost never want to go with the cheapest tool you can find)

Yeah, I'm pretty surprised about that wood too. I got some ebony from them (granted it doesn't have near the chance of tearing out like that), but it is very nice. I would hope something will be done.

There it is with a kahler, I like it. Sorry about the color, the first one I found was silver, so I messed with it a bit in photoshop, but you get the idea.

Sure could, although I'd place the trem unit a fair bit closer to the bridge - in my experience having the bridge that far back reduces the break angle of the strings enough that you tend to get ringing from behind the bridge.

Plus, how are you supposed to use the trem while playing when it's that far back?

Ok, it looked like on the strat one that one of them was sticking out, if it works though cool.

The simple fact of what maiden said, and I agree with, is that Kahler's are just made of great materials and are machined to very high tolerances.