lespaul123

All items sold!!!

BRW sold pending funds

Some have notified me via PM that I am missing some facts and explanations about the wood I have for sale here.

First the thickness of the pieces.

Honduran Mahogany Sides average .12", one of the pieces thin out to .1" on the end and the back pieces are at .13"

Macassar Ebony thickness is at .105"

BRW sides are at .1 and the backs are on average .12 thick on one edge it tapers to .11.

The BRW is very old stuff that has been sitting since the 60`s. Just another side note, the back pieces are still attached to the remainder of the billet. I have plans for the remaining pieces which is why I covered the pieces with paper. I will cut the backs to length prior to shipping at around 21", so please let me know if you need a little extra length. Thank you for your interest and please feel free to ask any other questions or concerns.

Robbie

If depends on the crack. If they can be closed easily they can repaired with CA or something like that. If they cannot be closed but are not a giant hole they can be filled with dyed epoxy or something like that and made to go away. A lot of it depends on the wood. Most dark stuff you can be sneaky with, but the lighter stuff is pretty tough to get away with it. I have seen some characters use the crack as an accent by filling with a different colored epoxy, which can look cool.

Hey guys I am some stuff up for sale here.

100$ Honduran Mahogany Set - sides 4 3/4" by 32" back 10" by 22"

50$ 1 Macassar Ebony back/electric guitar tops please take note of the checks. 7 1/4" by 20 3/4"

50$ 2 Macassar Ebony back/electric guitar tops please take note of the checks. 7 1/4" by 23.5-19.25" to the knot

450$ Brazilian Rosewood set please note the spiderwebbing and figure. Sides are rift sawn and are 5 3/4 33 5/8-The back will fit a dread and is quarter sawn

I haven't posted here in quite some time. I have been much more active in luthiers forum.com and luthier forum.com. thanks for looking!!!

The last two pictures are of the BRW sides. The last picture the side pieces on top of the back. The backs and sides were cut out of different billets, but they are very close in color.

Wow, A+ work! scalloped frets, jumbo wire, that thing must play itself!

I really like the color of the top, and the overall execution. This could definitely be GOTM material. What was the total cost?

Thx man. I used transtints for the color. The guitar cost about 700 with out the pick ups. I really need to spend more time shopping to get the better prices instead of just buying it all right before I start to build. So now I always have my eyes open.

good thinkin I will do that.

thx guys I really appreciate it. But 51 views an two comments I know there are a lot more opinions out there.

O the as for how long it took.It took 3 weeks for all the wood work( I took vacationt ime from work) and bout a month a half to finish, polish and set it up.

Hey Guys I am posting some pics of my second build finally. I built this thing like 6 months ago but I just now
got some pictures of it. It has 3/4 flamed maple top with a 1 1/4 mahogany body. It is a neck through with cherry(one of
my personal favorite woods) ziricote, flamed maple o and some black dyed veneer strips. The head stock overlay grain runs from the ziricote fingerboard all the way up the neck(sorry I couldnt get a good pic of this). I also glued a peice of mahogany and dyed black veneer underneth the headstock overlay. I carved some of the headstock to kinda show that off. The fingerboard is fully scalloped
with jumbo fret wire. I sanded the fingerboard by hand from 220 all the way up to 12000 so it has a nice shine to it. O yea
I used a very sharp chisel to carve most of the scallop and then a rasp on the higher ones. I found that the chisel made it
less work to sand than to use a raps all the time.I dont own a profile sander but I imagine that would have worked
also. Each fret took about 20 minutes from start to finish. Talk about tedeious o man. As for inlay I did an offset
abalone dot inlays with matching side dots. It has a 25 " scale length. Now for the finish I used behlen stringed instrument
lacquar. I dont know what you guys think of this stuff. I used the same stuff on my first guitar, and I must say out of all of the
lacquars I have used I am just not much of a fan of it. Its just not as durable as a would like it to be. I dunno I will try
something diffrent next time. Any reccomendations? Ok back to the finish I did a blue black dye on the raw body. Sanded
back then tinted with with black dye. So it look very silverish then in certain angles it goes blue. At first I was really
bummed about the color but now I love it. O I know lots of you guys prolly do not like emgs but dont worry Bareknuckles
are on the way. O one more thing my woods suppliers were North west timber(top) Gilmer wood (body) Hearne hardwoods (ziricote) Berea hardwoods (flamed maple for neck) Thanks for checking this one out let me know what you think

THx guys I really appreciate the fast response.

here are some pics. I kinda see what mattia was talking about. But either way let me know if this is common? Also please understand that I am not done with the guitar yet. O and the pickup holes are sloppy but they cover. It is the silverish one not the sunburts prs copy.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/554985896XxFwcw

That's normal, and if you think about what the figure's doing in a bookmatched top, it'll make sense; basically, the grain's moving in the mirror image direction to the other side (what's going 'into' the top on one side is coming 'out of' the top on the other; the effect is particularly noticeable with flamed maple, I find, but present in pretty much all wood with figuring defined by grain fluctuation).

Look at this picture of one of my quilt tops, f'r instance:

Particularly the right-hand side of the picture; the light and dark areas are 'reversed' for the two halves, and I assure you the figure's equaly good on both pieces.

yea its not quite like that it much more extreme. I have finished it and when you hold the guitar one side will be kinda like blah and the otherside is lit up. I am gonna have to post pics and show you guys what I am talking about. I cant fully explain with out pics. Ill get some up tonight

Hey I noticed something about my guitar top as I was prepping it for finish. It seems that the top "reflects" figure on one side and then when I move it the maple will flip and show the figure on the other side and then the other side will kinda go away not entirely but significantly. What I am trying to figure out is it something I did or just the nature of the peice of maple. It is book matched and mated pretty well so I am kinda confused. It seems that the figure kinda runs out from one side to the other. The figure is strong on both side but one side has a little less depth than the other. Almost not even noticable. Hmmm has anyone else ever had the same issue. .

you guys forget that i used to be in love with wood grain as well.but now every cheap ass schecter and bc rich has a nice quilted maple or flame top...i am sick of looking at a great top on a mediocre guitar.

a good custom paint job is just as tough and more pleasing to me.you guys will tire of wood grain as well some day soon.go to guitar center..look at what they have laying around for $400

you def. got a point there sir.

in my estimation these days a good paint job is more exciting thanactually seeing the wood

woah west thats bold statement. In my humble opinion I think paint is rather boring compared to wood. Specific woods are rare have age and history with it paint can never achieve that kind of movement and luster wood expresses. Dont get me wrong though there is a a time and place for paint. BUt for me a never seem to get that take ur breath away effect with a painted guitar.

wow thorn that looks awesome I think i am gonna give mop a shot ill post pics when I am finished

Ive read that Mother of Pearl suppose to be a really good nut material. I just was wondering if anyone has used it and what are there opinions on that. I have seen some higher end banjos with it.

I have already bought one from depaule. Was just wondering how the material was to work and the sound that I would get from it. It is very very dense compared to buffalo horn .

I was wondering what your idea of the ultimate tonewood would be. Also what the best looking wood to you would be. And I think for the best looking category we should have a figured and un figured choice.

For me the ultimate tone wood would be Brazilian Rosewood

Best looking wood would be ...Snakewood

Unfigured would be maybe Desert Ironwood

Ive read that Mother of Pearl suppose to be a really good nut material. I just was wondering if anyone has used it and what are there opinions on that. I have seen some higher end banjos with it.

Hey I am finishing my guitar, and it has a snakewood fingerboard. I cant decide on whether or not to make it finished or oiled. Which way would be better for the wood and look the best?

I am laminating three pieces of wood for my neck thru guitar and I need some advice. I have enough wood to cut out the headstock angle at 13 degrees on a band saw (as in i would just cut out the entire neck profile as one piece without a scarf joint), but my question is would it be a better idea to just do a scarf joint?

do u have a table saw or access to a table saw?

thank u guys so much i think i am gonna get somethnig from 3d woods. Thank u for the opinions and suggestions. u all have been very helpful. ill post pics when i get done I made the neck its neck through with a snakewood center stripe and black limba strips. with a quilted maple headstock overlay and a snakewood back lay. with a snakewood fingerboard.

Those are amazingly nice, I'm not going to lie. However, I would NEVER pay $500 for ANY piece of wood?! That's rediculous! Especially for your first guitar (which I get the impression this is). You're just. Trust me, puti n some money and get some decent wood and build one. Once you've got down your skills, THEN.... MAYBE.... spend that much on a top.

Keep in mind.... maple isn't the only option, I've guild 3 guitar already, and now that I'm building a 4th (my first bass) I'm only now using my first figured maple top (and that's only cause the customer insisted). Personally, I feel there's MUCH cooler things to buy for that much. Like 4 highly figured Claro Walnut tops! Some figured pink ivory, there's all sorts of great naturally colored figured woods out there for less than people pay for some maples, and in my opinion are much nicer. I mean, hey, do what you want. But I think you're asking for trouble with that on a first build.

Chris

i really appreciate that but well its kinda my first build i started preparing for this for like a year now i have carved 5 diffrent figured tops i have made 5 neck and fretted 2. I grew up and work in a cabinet shop so i kinda have that whole wood working thing in my blood. But i really want something that has that private stock prs top look but i cant seen to find it any where with out that kinda cost. I mean ur right about the wood thing. I bought a 22 inch snakewood log for only 250. now this thing is double. and snakewood is unreal. but kinda tough to work. o well thank u

how thick are these

7" is wide enough for a strat if the edges are suface joined after a resaw

that is very expensive. while they are nice $500 is almost absurd

gilmore is a great source never used them but only heard great things about them

Exotic Woods company is another not cheap either but not that expensive

ebay also has some great sellers. this billet was bought of ebay by a freind of mine

he paid $125 and decided he could not handle a build and gave it to me

(yes im a lucky bastard) its 8"x23x2-1/2 you tell me if he got a good deal

here is a pic

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d38/femf.../Picture002.jpg

dont get me wrong its very nice but not near what these are.