ElysianGuitars

I don't use the Lowe's or Home Depot type as they tend to suck.

Go to a hobby store and get a good tube of CA. Most Hobby stores have Zap. I use the Klingspore brand at my local Woodworkers shop.

I use the Thin to fix cracks and checks. For dings or chips in the clear finish I have had really good success with the thick Super glue. Also use the thin to glue paint chips back down.

and for future wet sanding, might i recommend using naptha instead?

What are the advantages of naptha other than making better firewood?

keeping water away from wood, for one.

thanks

use superglue. it soaks right into lacquer, it will look flawless when you're done, wick it in there, scrape it flat(use a razor blade, with 2 pieces of masking tape on each side so only the middle section of the blade is exposed, and scrape until only a little bit of glue is left), then wet sand it, and polish it back to a gloss.. and for future wet sanding, might i recommend using naptha instead? tis what Mike Sherman recommended to me tonight.

So how's this thing coming along? Any more progress?

need to finish some other things to be able to buy the hardware.

its taken a lot of work, a lot of mistakes, to get this blue burst one to this point, but i've finally gotten the kinks worked out, finally have all the right tools, and now it is buffed out and looks great. you can even make out my face in the pic, as well as trees

it looks like the carve goes under the pickup rings on the bass side, gotta be careful about that in future builds... i dig the depth of the carve though, it looks pretty good.

instead of making a new thread, i figured i'd post this here, heres one of my builds i just sprayed finish on today

have you ever considered making your headstock a little thinner at the tip to get straight string pull? i think itd look pretty cool with the same design you use at the tip, just modified for straight string pull... just food for thought, it looks a little bulky in its current form.

that is awesome! love it. the only thing i'm iffy on is the small headstock, but otherwise, i love the design of the body, love the copper top(seeing as its very likely ground, makes for great shielding ), love the lighting.

why no fretboard taper?

well, i hate to burst your bubble...but

dean z used this design when he was under Dean guitars. its the dean soltero

dont worry, i had a great idea for a V and found that it was already designed (without myknowledge) by the son of the founder of BC rich....

yeah, i forgot about that soltero when i posted that last night, never liked that design though i was talking to mike sherman earlier though, and he told me that style of carve has been done in the 80s... i was still in elementary school back then

and now i see my carve idea has wound up on a Dean Zelinsky DBZ guitars digital mockup... awesome...

maybe he saw it posted on here in 2006, maybe he didn't, i just know its pretty weird to see something i came up with almost 2 years ago on someone elses guitar...

edit: though it is kind of flattering if its not coincidence, and dean zelinsky took inspiration from my design...

18" dual action truss rod is enough for 25.5"... hell its enough for over 28" scale...

You need a point on the top bout to offset the point on the bottom horn.

i would say that there are hundreds of thousands of single cutout guitar owners out there that would argue

i like the first one better but thats just my opinion

to be a little more exact i liked single hump on the first one is more tele style I also was digging on the countour of the first one and ya got to go with the TOM

to be honest i just really was diggin on the first design better the only thing i could say i would have liked to see is a multi scale neck.

its all just sketches, if a customer wants multiscale, i'll do multiscale... the 2nd one is basically to give a safer alternative to the first one, options are always good.

how about this as another single cut option for my lineup?

why'd you get rid of the insterts in the neck? from my experience, inserts are superb for bolt on's, because you can torque the hell out of the bolts, without having to worry about stripping them...

You need a point on the top bout to offset the point on the bottom horn.

tried that, one of the first ideas i tried, didn't like it.

recessed TOM=droolworthy.

not going to put the jack in the traditional Rhoads V spot? i did that on my V, worked out pretty well, was pretty easy...

It's awesome, but the single coil route in the neck is what makes it really "pop". Hopefully the customer has the same tastes as me and we'll see this this come to be with a single-coil.

well, it will for the prototype build, i'll tell you that

i like it

thanks i've tried a bunch of different ideas i've gotten from peoples suggestions, and none of them look good to me, i'm gonna work on it tomorrow in full scale, using the same dimensions as my 8 string build. i really want these 2 to feel like they could be a part of a product lineup.

I like the design, however as I love old timey designs, I would make the upper bout less extreme, kind of more rounded without slipping into LP territory. What kind of single coil are you considering for the neck position? I´ve heard very good comments on the SD JB junior humbucker (single coil-sized version). Also, because of it being a modern design, maybe the neck pickup could go slanted and the frets accomodate the position, following the horn´s curve...just a thought.

I´ve seen builds with the mahogany showing and in my opinion it looks beautiful, but you have to consider if it goes well with the design.

i use nordstrand for my 7 and 8 string single coils. was just drawing in a pickup config, thats always up to the customer.

yeah, you're gonna lose your inlays.

Not bad but something seems amiss about it. like...the center seems real skinny...like it's got a big ass.... Also, the long straight lines that come in from the neck side...the little heart shape...the straight lines seem weird compared to the big round butt-end...

I think it's def a good start on a SC design though.

its a single cut take on this

i don't know if that helps put it into perspective or not.

I've searched around the internet quite extensively and havn't really found any information on this. So I decided to register here looking for an answer. I'm a total newb at doing work on guitars and within the past 2 years have only done minor mods to the guitars I own. But, now I've caught the "mod" bug and want to get further into modifications and luthiering. Although I'm not comepletely familiar with all the types of guitars and parts out there I need some info that some of you might find amusing. My question is: I have an idea for a set-up but not sure if it will work, could I use locking tuners with a roller type nut and a floyd rose bridge with roller saddles? Will the guitar stay in tune when doing dive bombs and such? I know this is usually set for a locking nut. But I'm thinking with locking tuners I may be able to achieve the same result. But, considering the string is wound around the tuner post even with a locking tuner the string will tend to move out of tune when doing a dive bomb. At least this is what I'm thinking. The reason I want a roller nut and roller saddles is to help with sustain, and besides it would look killer. If anyone out there has had the same idea and tried it ...I'd like to know what your results were. If there are any variations that anyone has thought about I'd like to hear those too. Regards, and thanks in advance!

where are you going to find roller saddles for a floyd? a roller nut would work fine for staying in tune, but so would a nice slippery nut, like graphtech tusq or slipstone or graphite, etc. your idea has been done by some, and generally with good results.

just drew this up, somewhat based on my 8 string, but a single cut of course. opinions?