renablistic

prices, especially for that blue body... whats the scale on that ibanez neck? also, what's the scale of a fender p-bass?

I don't know much about building guitars, but I do seem to remember someone on this board asking about using pine for guitars, and the general opinion seemed to be that pine is too soft.

Or am I wrong?

yes that is correct, it is WAY too soft. I'm just build like 4 or 5 practice necks out of pine because it's cheap, and I don't wanna waste money on maple or mahogany or anything else I might mess up on. Hell, this first neck might turn out perfect, but chances are is that if i woulda done it with maple first, something bad woulda happened, i have bad luck...

Doing a 1 piece, or gluing on? Also, jigsaes work, but I'd find a bandsaw. 

I'm doing a 1 piece, and glueing on extra wood on the end so that it's thick enough to cut an angle. I don't know if that's what you meant, or if you meant doing that odd u-joint thing ibanez does? Yea, so far i've used a jigsaw for every cut... but i'm not sure it would work in this situation.

here's an idea for the strat... take a metal rod (Smaller in diameter than the whammy bar) and get some sodder, and a hot knife, and sodder the metal rod to the piece stuck inside, and then just twist it out like you would a regular whammy bar, then just buy a new bar...

I've started to build my first neck out of pine. I'm using measurements off my ibanez wizard(ish) neck. And it has a headstock angle (and i hate guitars w/o em) and so i have to copy the angle.... i have it drawn out, and theres enough wood, but ummmmm, i don't know how to cut it.... The miter saw doesn't look like it'll do the job, i don't have a bandsaw, and the rotozip (kinda like a torqued up and bigger version of a dremel) seems like it would take too long... I saw the tutorial that says to cut the triangle, then glue the removed triangle on the reverse, and cut again, but i can't do that, i've already gone too far... any help would be appreciated.

thanks.

I love those amps......

if you are gonna strip it and refinish it, it would work, but yea, guitar ed is right.

on my refinish of a maple archtop, i started to rip out the binding, but i didn't like it w/o the binding on that like inch or so, so i filled the slot with regular putty, and it's hard to notice... really hard. If it was a darker wood, it would never work, but most putties are made to match pine/maple... You wont get a perfect top, but it wont be very bad at all.

is this of any use to anyone?!?!? Anywho, in the picture, of the epoxy based clear coat, it's really freaking shiny.... remember those fretless basses with the epoxied fretboards? it's that freakin shiny

Impressive craftmanship but to me the guitar looks still ugly. It's just not my taste at all.

thats what i was gonna say.

I respect what he did. And the talent behind it....but...

WHY?

I third that, its good craftsmanship, but to me, it's just soooo ugly...

if you're gonna use spray paint, as in regular spray paint, it won't stick. That's why sherwin-williams (i think it is) makes a special spray paint specially formulated to stick to plastic. After that a few coats of aerosol clear coat (3.50 from the hardware store) will top it off. I'd go with like 5 coats, it doesn't go on very thick, so 5-10, 10 being a fail-safe. Don't use polyurethane, it wont stick to regular spray paint (i dont know why), but aerosol clear coat will.

ya, it's too thick to be a veneer... brians are 1/40", which seems too thin to me... but it is vheap at 15 bucks... I'm not looking for the nices top ever... just something to top off a basswood tele body, it's best cheap...

Wow that looks awesome! I didn't even notice the clear cavity covers but now that I do they are SOOOO cool!

EXACTLY thats just one of those "extra touches"

And don't forget the carbon rods which will support the neck just right.

don't mean to be a pirate, but how well do carbon fiber supports help?

niiiiice. I'm not a big fan of swirl finishes, and mutli-colored pups, too gaudy for me, but prejudiced aside, it is awesome. I especially like those clear cover plates, they're very unique, in a very good way!!! Also: how did you get the dull black hardware? A special powdercoat?

ok, i could make a veneer, but i would rather buy one...

allready bookmatched, and stuff, brians got flamed maple for 15 bucks, 25 for 2 sets, but i was thinking more along the lines of bubinga, or something exotic... good prices are a plus... I'm planning a super tele to be built at the end of the year, and well i want to know the price as soon as as possible.. so i'm making shopping lists/ price lists and all that now along with drawing up plans... so any one know anygood suppliers that match the above specs? I serched the site, and looked at the wood supliers list on the main page, and didn't find what i wanted, maybe i didn't look good enough?

can i ask: What exactly did you do that? Did you mask off each little spot, spray, and etc? I'm thinking about doing something of the similar on a tele but with a rebel (confederate [dixie]) flag, and use decals for the stars...

f'ing awesome! Looks great!!

ummm for a clear coat, you can buy a can of that stuff for 3.50 at your local hardware store, you'll need maybe 3 cans for a whole guitar. For colors reranch has a good selection, but they take about a week and a half to deliever...

and as far as advice goes, don't hold the can too close, or too far... once you've hit an area, don't hit it again with a touch-up quick spray, because you get little bumps... it gets to a gooey viscosity pretty fast...

and i have power tools, and lots of em. just no band saw... but the other tools out there should make up for it... for a practice neck anyways...

only an inch thick?

the only problem is that the only place to buy wood here is home depot, and my father said they don't sell it as thick as 4 inches, is he worng? i mean he goes there everyday, but i've seen other woods, like these stair blanks, that were a good size for a practice body