GoodWood

What I would get is the Japanese/ brass on top design, Ill have to find it. Just been trying out my Nippon "butter saw", as compared to my regualr fine saws with the brass on top, cuts like butter, but Im having problems keeping the blade strait. I got the thicker style blade also, but I may use another saw to start this out to keep it square, (comes with 2 blades for $24.00)

What do you do to keep the cuts strait for Nippon blades?

Does anyone sharpen thier own or know a good sevice to sharpen all the fine woodworkin saws we use?

That sounds good. I think also once the mold s are done this goes alot faster. Just one trip to the cabinet guys for thicknessing, etc....maybe just buy that kerfling next time...

Dayjob limits my time to mainly Saturday now.

So, -Im doing carpathian at 1.10, should I thin that a little more to compensate for the extra stiffness??, (I also have a 25' dish)

I think I want to run an ebony or ziricote bridge, but I have some peruvian rosewood that would make a nice one. What are the different weights per wood, that is, what would an ebony bridge weigh if its the same size as the cocobolo, etc? What weight should you shoot for on a dread? Can someone run down some weights of typcial woods used?

I think 35 grams is about at the top of the gram scale (beginner)

Thanks.

Well, at least you're out there working in your shop. And, mistakes cause you to learn some. Just don't be so tired as to get sloppy and hurt yourself.

I've been trying to motivate myself to get out there more. I need to develop a habit to be out there the same time every day, or something like that.

I've been thinking about a new bench project. I want/need something I can walk completely around, at a nice work height. Then, I can get on with the guitar project.

Stay safe.

What I do is I have a radio, and I just go down to "look it over". I dont think about working down there, but I prepair my workclothes etc. Then I go down and look at all the stuff I need to do, and get in the mood real quick. I start doing it. All you have to do is get out there. Get the work aspect out of your head. If you really dont want to work, then you wont. No biggie.

I probably should stop storing gun powder inside the column of my drill press, but I did get the idea from watching The New Yankee Workshop.

I hope its not packed too tight!

Ive been lookin around but no go yet. Ive seen certain new Starrett straits but at 350+. Anyone know were to get this type if strait edge? Thanks

http://www.cumpiano.com/Home/Newsletters/I...ewsletter2.html

A USEFUL DIGRESSION

You have to have a machinists' yardstick to do this. If you are going to do any kind of bridge work or intonation diagnosis, you just have to have one. If you don't and if you don't want to spend the $50 - $75 it'll cost for a good one, skip this section. It is a metal ruler, 30 - 36 inches long, finely engraved with markings in English Standard and something called "Ford" measurements (actually very few people know that it's called that). Ford rule measurements (yes, first conceived by ol' Henry Ford) are inches divided into tenths. And each tenth is divided up in ten divisions, yielding 100ths (and a headache trying to read them), or (easier for my fifty-year-old eyes) in five divisions, yielding or 50ths (that is, with four engraved ticks that are read .02", .04", .06" and .08" . Of course the measurements in between the ticks are .01", .03", .05" and .09"). The advantage of the Ford rule is that you can measure off, to .01" accuracy, the results of a mathematical division involving inches. It like the next best thing to metric. I know, I know, we should all be using metric, but hey! Give me a break: life is changing too fast as it is....

I drew a little blood from my thumb the other day. Slipped with the Stanley knife when I was cutting my toe nails (honestly - I couldn't find the nail clippers)

I saw "The Worlds Fastest Indian" just the other day, He was a Kiwi, but same kinda thing!

Boing over a recent post, just thought Id put this up to serve as a reminder. What stupid shop mistakes have you made that could have cost a finger, etc? Maybe if it gets going it could be a sticky.

Shop Saftey is #1 guys. Need all them fingers to play the guitar with!!

Glad it wasn't too bad.

Every once in a while I do something stupid and get a harsh reminder to pay attention.

When your in the shop, especially with power tools, (table saw especially), all the lights have to be ON!! My deal was putting hand in front of chisel a while back. Emergency room visit to sew it up, $125.00. That tells you how long ago it was. Put hand in front again working on mold WITHOUT clamping it, just briefly but I caught it. HASTE MAKES WASTE, AND BLOOD!! Yes it takes more time, your shop should be set up so you know exactly where all your tools are for time saving efficientcy so you dont get into bad habits. Had some KICKBACK from the tablesaw today, for no good reason either. grrrrrrrrr Im making a kickback fence after that.

Always on, NO SHORTCUTS especially with power tools, dont go for the extra mile when tired. SAFTEY FIRST!!!!

First, how long have you been using the blade?

If it's old you probably have worn the kerf of the blade down on one side which will make the blade take the path of least resistance.

2nd, Do you have the proper tension on the blade?

Too tight is better than too loose.

3rd, the side thingies?

You are referring to blade guides and should never be too tight just enough tension to keep the blade on track.

I suspect that the blade is worn out.

Try this site:

http://home.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild/i-bndsaw.htm

Blade is pretty new, maybe not tight enough. Ill tweek that....thanks

I remember I used to do strait cuts with it, its a 15 year old delta and its fine, but I cannot cut strait lines for the life of me. If I do follow a line on top, it curves and undercuts the bottom. Grrrrrr. Ive tried to adjuset the little side things, but it still goes to the side after a couple inches. Is this 'normal behavior' for a certain 'problem' I hope?

Thats very cool. What exactly is the blanket part? I dont get how this went together...???? Dont burn the house down!!

GoodWood, the inside of the bender is all metal and it has a overheat switch. The blanket traditional hand made quilt. A gift from my sister. Thanks for the interest. Jofes.

No I meant the heating blanket. Is this set up like a light bulb box?

Thats very cool. What exactly is the blanket part? I dont get how this went together...???? Dont burn the house down!!

Well, the one acoustic I've (nearly...) completed thus far had a 3/4" mortise pre-cut, and I did all my tweeking on the neck tenon to get the neck angle right. I used two bolts and metal cross-dowels in the tenon, and it worked out fine.

However, I think on my next one I will go with a more simple Taylor-style butt joint with threaded inserts instead of cross dowels...this does not require any mortise in the neck block, and the heel is easier to tweek to adjust the neck angle.

Cumpliano just added the standard bolt-on joint to his website, like a book addition add on.

Im going for the bolt on neck, and just wondered if its unusual to pre cut the slot for the neck, I figure you can always adjust the neck itself if its off a little bit.

That sounds really good. It will be cool to hear what you think of the sound in about 6 months. Spruce does take a while to wake up. It just keeps getting better and better .

So now my question. What do you think building an acoustic has taught you or opened your eyes to in terms of building vs the electrics? It is a pretty generic question, but by it I mean things that you may have not thought about or really noticed while building solid bodies.

Peace,Rich

I really like the sound! Id like to hear strait acoustic also. Got me inspired to get the show moving again. Got the Rosette set, molds closer to finished.

Looks and sounds fantastic to me.

Hmmm, it wont allow me to Download. Can you just send a couple to me? Thanks

All I get are little square X;s, no round tabs, no DL links, cant save target, nuthin.

Looks and sounds fantastic to me.

Hmmm, it wont allow me to Download. Can you just send a couple to me? Thanks

Larrivee makes a quality instrument with a great sound. My favourite factory guitar along with Taylor.

I had a blackwood larrive that I sold, I never used it. (play my Tacoma DM9, a $500.00 all solid wood) Had some string buzz the shop would not address, the neck seemed too small.

Just looked at a $900.00 Larivee yesterday, may have been the same model. Really punchy, sensitive, it was nice I like the mahogany over rosewood still. Taylor has an 1100.00 model that is comprable. For the price it seems ok. Thats why Im building my own though. I also agree, some of the higher end $2-3000.00 guitars dont sound as nice.????

Looked at the low end taylor, it doesnt even have back braces! (They usually sound good in person, terrible when recorded.)

0 Make sure there is no string buzz. Take a few days to think about it also. I took back an $1800.00 martin after I recorded it. It wasnt the sound I wanted. My Tacoma has hung in there for a while.

You might also try looking at used guitars, you might get a broken in one for a good price. Craigslist is usually loaded with good one, depending on where you live.

I've been hunting for a good used git and found a few Martins, but they didn't thrill me as a "gotta have it". I'll check again on the back bracing. I have noticed the polished ones do have a bit of sound damping compared to the satin one. Thanks for the info.

Ive seen Martin D-35's on Ebay for as low as $1200.00 It has the horrible white plastic binding, but they are boomers, if you like dreads. Ask for a sound sample.

The low end taylor at 600 doesnt have back braces because back and sides are plywood, doesnt need them. Make sure its solid wood!! They do sound nice, all plywood seem to sound nicer to my ear playing them. recorded they suck wind!!!!

The one concern I would have is with bending flat sawn sides. Don't you think they would be prone to cracking?

Not really. From what I have seen some woods are more prone to cracking. You generally have trouble with those woods but other woods are not usually an issue. Zircote is a nasty one for cracking. It will crack in the quartersawn orientation just as fast as the flat. Woods like Port Oxford Cedar never give me any issue with cracking again either orientaion. The type of wood really seems to be key in how prone to cracking it will be.

If you look at the way a log tends to develop cracks as it dries. You will see the cracks develop perpendicular to the growth rings. This would lead you to suspect cracking in the flat orientaion(which is spot on your theory Godin). However I have not had issue with this after the wood has dried the first time. I am not sure if it is attributed more to differencial pressure during the initial drying(which evolves from inner to outer compression) or if it is an actual weakness in the structure. My personal observations tell me it is related more to the initial drying process.

Peace,Rich

I dug up some quarted cedar at Lowes. Its pretty vertical. When some did crack (its all very very wet) it went against the vertical, I was suprised. Also, it was close to the center. I suspect the science is well known as to why logs/wood cracks.

I have also read that slab/flat sawn sitka is th best for braces. Not quartered. From that piano guys site I think, or some luthier site.

Larrivee makes a quality instrument with a great sound. My favourite factory guitar along with Taylor.

I had a blackwood larrive that I sold, I never used it. (play my Tacoma DM9, a $500.00 all solid wood) Had some string buzz the shop would not address, the neck seemed too small.

Just looked at a $900.00 Larivee yesterday, may have been the same model. Really punchy, sensitive, it was nice I like the mahogany over rosewood still. Taylor has an 1100.00 model that is comprable. For the price it seems ok. Thats why Im building my own though. I also agree, some of the higher end $2-3000.00 guitars dont sound as nice.????

Looked at the low end taylor, it doesnt even have back braces! (They usually sound good in person, terrible when recorded.)

0 Make sure there is no string buzz. Take a few days to think about it also. I took back an $1800.00 martin after I recorded it. It wasnt the sound I wanted. My Tacoma has hung in there for a while.

You might also try looking at used guitars, you might get a broken in one for a good price. Craigslist is usually loaded with good one, depending on where you live.

http://www.cumpiano.com/Home/Newsletters/I...ewsletter7.html

Lol, yea, I just found that. Thought you were askin'. There is some really good stuff on there. Also, he has a page update for his book, where he does the bolt on neck. Just decided to go that way.

It sounds decent. The bass is a little loose/flabby and the highs get a little lost, but it still sounds pretty good. I hit the general tone I was aiming for. Even though it's heavy on the bass individual notes stand out fine and finger picking sounds amazing. So I'm pretty happy with the sound considering it's my first acoustic. A fishman pickup is on the way, so I'll be able to hear it over a pa.

Cool, do you have a soundcard and a mic? Can you run down some chords to hear it??

On monday I'll get the guy that did the GOTM guitar to do a quick recording of it. The stuff I make with my soundcard sounds horriable.

Bummer, I have a 6 year old soundblaster card, works awsome, just cant add eco effects to the MP3s.

It would be interesting to see some of your specs. How thick were the X braces, Top, Back, Sides, weight of bridge etc...