angry_jeremy

Benjamin Moore, eh? It's just called grain filler? I thought they were more into house paint stuff. If that stuff works, I could prolley get a hold of some. Have you used it before?

Argh, I've got the first edition too. The month after I got it, the catalogue said the 2nd ed. was in the works Meh, it's pretty good though. I suppose the net would yield decent images of the colours in the recipes section, no?

Awesome, thanks!

I've switched from trying to use blue ($1.50-$2 each) to using green, much cheaper! I suppose what you're saying is true regarding the intensity, as long as they do SOMETHING they'll do the job. I'm getting things figured out now (finally).

Geez, I didn't think it would take that much power to run such a small number of LED's... Perfect case scenerio I would like to have 2 circuits: 1-side dots for frets 3-24, so 12 LED's all together (2 at the octaves) 2-front dots for same frets, another 12 LED's Top it all off with a switch for Side, Side+Top, Top and maybe a master on/off for the whole shebang. I don't however want to have to have 2/3 of the rear of the guitar routed for batteries. I'd been thinking series circuits cause they seemed simpler but a parallel circuit could run more off just one battery, no? Anywho, that's what I'm thinking. The only real problem with the 'guess and test' method mentioned earlier with the pot to control current is that I don't think I can get the LED's I want in town and would have to order them online. I don't wanna pay $40 for LED's that aren't going to do the right job if it's avoidable. See what I'm saying?

Ah, I got ya now. I thought it was only parallel circuits that need a separate resistor for every LED though

So I need 2 values of resistors? One for the first LED, then 'X' others that equal the resistance of the pot plus the first resistor? Could I not just use the value of the pot "full blast" plus a resistor to act as the one master resistor for the series circuit? It would only be a matter of a little pluggin' and chuggin' with the calculator to figure out what pot+resistor combo would work. What I would really like is to do more of an on/off control and not have to frig with pots at all. Ideally 2 circuits, one for the side dots, one for the fingerboard dots with a strat switch for side-side+top-top-off-off.

mcd is a millicandella (sp?), a unit of light intensity can a regular-old 250K pot work for taming the current? Jehle- the thing is that the kind of LED I get will dictate the resistor needed for the circuit. Obviously I don't need enough light to light my way in the dark like those LED flashlights but I wanna see 'em

I've been looking into putting LED dot markers in my next guitar and don't know what intensity would look right. The high-output kind (in the thousands of millicandella range) would prolley be too bright, at least I think anyway. I really have no frame of reference for what a 40mcd vs. 400mcd vs. 4000mcd looks like. What have people here used before? Any good pics besides from Sims LED? Pics of your own LED inlays? Also, for those of you who have done this before, do you just make small wiring channels in the back of the fingerboard? I tried looking at the tutorial on LEDs but the like is dead (although I hear it was great... )

yeah, kinda looking for a shiny finish I think

rub burst meaning a wipe-on burst?

gripper: don't happen to have a pic of the wonderful blotchiness do ya?

C'mon, you know you're reading this (38 views currently, 0 responses).

Yeah, I read that article which is what made me think about it. With the five minute stuff, sure you can glomp it on in 5 but to get 'er smoothed out so you don't have to sand for years would take more than a few minutes I would think. I've looked at online stuff but I'd really like to find stuff locally, which is proving to be a pain.

Anyone used these before? I was thinking the wood putty might work as a grain filler (over mahoghany), then using one of the polyshades for colour then finishing up with either the wipe-on poly or the can poly. I'm having a hell of a time trying to find something good for grain filling. I've looked at the 2-part epoxies but either they're the wrong colour or they're the 5 minute type. Thanks.

I've got this old small acoustic that someone picked up at a yard sale and thought it would be fun to frig with. It had been in a basement and had water damage on the finish. I've sanded most of it off and now have the challenge of figuring out how to finish it. The top and back are decent looking so I wouldn't mind a stain or something but the real problem is in the sides. I got tired of sanding forever by hand (I'm pretty sure the finish had a density close to lead) so I whipped out the dremel. As a result of my hastiness, I burned through the outer ply of the side material in some places revealing the second, darker layer. If the finish on the sides were opaque and the divots were filled, it could look alright. I would like to do a stain type finish on the top and back however. Any ideas for how to accomodate these two ideas? Sunburst of some sort? Can you mix paint for the dark outside with stain on the inside of the burst? Thanks.

Finally got around to re-wiring the beast (I was waiting for the StewMac shielding kit to come in). Problem solved, thanks!

Will do!

It's a DiMarzio hot rails, maybe. A HB that fits in the SC hole with 2 blade pole pieces. A specific wiring diagram I don't have, I just follow the strat wiring in a book I have and then looked on the DiMarzio site for what wires to use in the coil cut.

Sounds like the phase issue is the right thing. The bass is very weak on that setting. The neck+middle position works fine. What wires do I need to swap coming from the bridge pickup?

Hmm...could be, I'll have to go home to check. If so, how do I fix that?

I've got a Strat with a DiMarzio hot rail type p/u in the bridge and generic p/u's everywhere else. When I switch to the Middle+Bridge position the sound is quite a bit weaker than the other 4 (I know it's usually quieter but it's more than normal). As far as I can tell from schematics the wiring is correct. The HB has a coil tap on it but the weakness in the sound doesn't change. Any ideas?

I'm refinishing a Squier strat that used to be red and even though there's not even a trace of primer or anything that looks even remotely like a finish, there's still an annoying pink hue. I read/heard somewhere that bleach might do the trick and I did that. It worked a little (wiped on with a rag). Should I just keep givin' 'er with the bleach or is there a more efficient way of doing things?

Anyone know what MDF would sound like as a body? What about HDF (high density)? It's pretty solid stuff. Just a thought.

I've got a guy with a lathe that could make some custom knobs but the only problem is making it so that they stay on the pots. Can you buy those little set screws like they use on tele barrel and dome knobs?