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HuntinDoug

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Posts posted by HuntinDoug

  1. This is actually my first scratch build. It's been hanging in the corner of the shop, gathering dust for many moons now. I moved on to other projects after I blew out a chunck of the ebony board while drilling the side dots :D . I find that with some projects, it's best to walk away for a while, and come back later with a "fresh perspective". I have been so busy with inlay work, and setting up the new CNC, I just havent had the time to finish it.

    I picked it back up a week or so ago, milled off the old board, and got a fresh start. I went with a 27 fret Indian rosewood board, bound with a pearloid binding that matches the 2 color pearlessent "scroll" inlay. I left a pinstripe of ebony under the new board for contrast. I pressed in some gold EVO med frets to match the gold hardware, and routed for a SD "cool rail" in the neck. I decided to go with a more defined carve on the top (the body is a 1 piece mahog). This is my first real "carve", and I'm happy with the results so far. All I need to do now is glue in the neck, carve the heel, trim down the neck profile, then throw a finish on it. Here is the most recent pic, let me know what you guys think:

    pt-pic3.jpg

  2. I just used some of the EVO "gold" from LMI last week for the first time: FW43080 .080" X .043 (2.03 X 1.09 mm). I prefer closer to a medium than a jumbo. Although this seemed a little too small for me. I love the color when it's polished up....We'll see how it wears I guess. :D

    pic:

    pt-pic2.jpg

  3. I know several members have tried to contact me lately. My apologies...I've been neck deep in this project (and about a dozen others). My builds have come to a screaching hault, as well as my unfinished website. B) Almost all of my time has been devoted to this.

    OK, enough whining B) ...here is the good news. After several weeks of worrying, planning, negotiations, and waiting, the CNC finally came in yesterday. The waiting still isnt over yet though. The electrician has to do his thing, and the dust collector still needs hooked up. Not to mention networking the new PC with the server, and going to the 3 day training sessions. :D There is still a LOT to do before it is fully operational. But when it is finally operational...look out! I'll be able to do pretty much anything. The ArtCAM Pro software will do full 3D interpolation. Check it out: http://www.artcam.com/ With 18 years worth of CAD designs in my library, I'm not sure where to start.

    It's set up for machining Corian counter tops. It has a 60" x 144" table, with a vacuum hold down system. I have been doing some rep/consulting work for a longtime friend (& bandmate) who ownes a counter top shop. He purchased this to speed up top production, (and to play with) :D . I get to use it anytime after 2pm, and on weekends.

    cnc.jpg

    When things settle down, I'll be offering custom carved bodies, necks, inlay...you name it. I will mainly be focusing on "wild" non production carving similar to the J. Frog Skull-n-Bones guitar, the Gene Simmons Axe bass, the Jackson "Zoraxe", ect. I already have some 3D artwork ready to cut...I cant wait! :D

  4. I just scored a semi-large lot of some very, very nice veneer. Included was Babinga, Ebony, Sapele Mahog, Zebrawood, Makore, and about a dozen other species. It's pretty thin stuff, about .023" thick....But very flat. I may let go of some of it. I bought it primarily for pinstripes in neck & body laminations. The bad thing is almost all of it is figured...I just hate to sandwitch it between other woods where the figure cannot be seen.

    If anyone is in the market, let me know. Cost depends on the species...I'm into trades. :D Check it out: :D

    doug@parableguitars.com

    veneer.jpg

  5. Very Cool! :D I have had a couple deals that were similar. One large custom shop I do work for doesnt like me dropping their name because they don't want people to know the parts are "outsourced". I do my best to comply.

    I have a laser cutter, and most of the laser work I do is guitar/instrument related. I've dealt with several luthiers here on projects. I'm a "verified vendor" PG sponsor. I'd be happy to help you out if I can. The best thing to do is call me with the specifics, or you can email me.

    Doug West

    Shop- 937 866-0327

    doug@parableguitars.com

  6. Syxx is right...it needs to be a vector file (EPS, DXF, AI, ect). My software has raster to vector convertion built in, so a JPG may work if the DPI is high enough. I have a vinyl cutter. I do a good amount of logo design, vinyl headstock logos, MOP headstock logos, ect. I can ship to the UK, however you may end up paying more in shipping than for the logos.

    Doug

  7. Looks OK to me... :D I like using woods that are not normally used in luthiery. I actually picket up a piece of "IPE" a couple months ago. http://www.internetlumber.com/lumber-produ...lnut--Ipe-Floor

    My local lumber supplier was running a special on it. It's normally used in flooring & decking. EXTREMELY hard wood that is somewhat oily. It has a green tint to it. The piece I picked up had some quilting in it, thats mainly why I bought it. I re-sawed a piece for a fingerboard, but havent used it yet.

  8. The last one I did was in 1990. It was a Jackson refin I did for a friend. The type of crackle paint I used was called "vreeble". The colors were yellow base w/ black crackle. I shot it 7 times before I was happy with the results. Each time I sanded the black off, then re shot it. It's cool to watch the cracks open up as the paint dries. The heavier you lay the crackle coat on, the wider the cracks are. It takes a LOT of clear to make the finish smooth.

    I think a swirl under a crackle coat would be cool. :D

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