Pete13606

As far as your profile. It will be the tool that you use to not only figure out thicknesses of parts, but more importantly neck angle/string heights/bridge height relationship.

Peace,Rich

Is it a neck thru, set, or bolt on? Scarfed headstock or non? Will the neck be laminated? Shape of the body and width can really make a big difference on the body wood. You will find some woods are very difficult to come by in wider widths. You should post a picture of the design, and include more details. Really though you have all the information in fromt of you if you have made full scale drawings(that would include a profile view).

Peace,Rich

Ok....bolt on,scarfed headstock.Laminated neck(think three with some small stringers between the center piece.Shape of the body is not much different than most I have seen though,the upper horn will go to approx. the 9th fret rather than traditonal 12th.Body 13 inches at it greatest width.

Didn't think of the profile (or thickness if I read you right)but,estimate 2 inches at it's thickest.I will be doing "acoustic" chambers mainly for the weight and including a semi carved top.

Hope this helps and THANKS Rich!

always have extra; for manuverability and unexpected defects (basically the same thing)

bodys- no top solid; you prolly want 8/4 stock and say about 4 ft; ie 8 "min width 2" thick and 2 24" pieces you could match up side by side;

i go 38- 40" for neck stock with whatever thickness depending on construction ( headstock angle; scarf; glued heel etc)

always have more; and off the same cut of wood

Thanks as this gives me some food for thought.I would also like to build some semi-acoustic basses with a much thinner top.

I have mentioned here before that I am a novice builder.I have designed on paper and posterboard to scale what I am going to build.I know what I am going to use wood wise for the body and the neck.I know the scale of the instrument, bridge placement etc.

What I don't have is a concept of how much wood to buy in a board foot sense.I have access to kiln dried lumber and the tools to mill it down to usable sizes.Left over wood is not a problem as it will be put to good use.I plan to get my lumber here http://lakeshorehardwoods.com/ .There are also a few other local suppliers with more or less the same inventory.Can someone give me an idea of what I would be looking at?My bass would be of standard size scale and body wise.

Thanks in advance!

Pete

While very much a beginner here......I would take the path I followed.Build a kit guitar first.That way you have a little experience sanding,finishing,assembling,wiring and setting up an instrument.You would be surprised how much you can learn from the experience....unless of course you have already put together a few kits.

It took me a few over the years,but I finally got a great result so I am going to challenge myself to build closer to scratch.Good Luck!!!

The topic is on Victorian Ash, not American Ash.

Sorry my fault.

Strength (bad weight to strength ratio), ability to withstand constant stress (weak), openness of grain (huge pores and open grain fibres), ability to withstand moisture (little to none), ability to carve/rout etc (poor), weight (heavy).

If you want to use it, go for it.

Thanks for the info.Wonder how Tobias gets away with it for some of his recent necks.Maybe heavy duty trussrod or some other reinforcement(s).

Ok done "hijacking"!!

Thanks

Pete

Not as bright as maple. Absolute pain to carve, finish, and sand. I wouldnt use it for a neck.

Not trying to take this too far off topic but...........why would ash be difficult to use for a neck.......or fingerboard for that matter?

I built this jig:

http://pweb.jps.net/~kmatsu/htmlpages/scarfjigplan.html

I found it on Kathy Matsushita's site. It works great every time. And as you stated "If you have the tools" namely a table saw.

That looks like a cool jig.It's similar to a jig I saw pictured in American Basses in the section that Micheal Tobias had an article reprinted.

I am lucky to have two table saws.Unfortunately the bandsaws I have are table top versions and not big or tough enough for most cutting of bodies.

Thanks for the advice and ideas!!!!I've been planning to build for a long time and have many templates(on cardboard) and full size plans drawn.

Pete

Ok, just cut the excess off with a bandsaw, and plane flat. I'll see if i can get a photo.

VERY MUCH appreciated.

Thanks!!!!!

Clamp the pieces together, using the off cut from when we cut the waste of the headstock angle off (so the clamps are perpendicular to the headstock face/join), and another flat scrap for the headstock face.

Before you know it, you'll be gluing up 15 necks at a time. Anyone care for a flying v??